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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, I'm new and this is my first question.


A friend has this and he is giving it to me for free to free up his yard where it has sat still for 5 years since the engine blew. It doesnt look real bad, it looks to be original and complete and not bent up frame wise or anything. I know for like a couple of thousand I can get one of these that run and look better and it's not like this is a real old tractor classic, but man, it looks cool.
My approach is to look it over real good, note broken things or missing things, see if I can get the engine to turn over by hand(has a cylinder head loosened up) go from there. In a perfect world I am hoping for a light rebuild on the engine, some paint and all good.

Or maybe this is a parts machine and not worth the effort.that is why I am here. Seeing these pictures, would any of you bother with this tractor in this condition? or should I part it out.. The price is free so I won't be out nothing.

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@Eric2.0 , Absolutely fix that tractor up. It is very desirable with the 3 point hitch. 400/4000 are liked for the large rear wheels. Make no mistake, that tractor is a beast. It is not modern box store garbage. Well worth the cost of a rebuild. Do a semi restoration on that like the JD316 and you will have a superior tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My worry right now is my friend is pulling it from the back yard to the front with his tractor. He said he will drag it up. I told him to make sure the back wheels spin, don't drag it wheels locked. It would be stupid to break the inside of it from doing that. Wish I could be there, but I can't, so....he says it spins, but been sitting so long.

My plan now will be to just see if engine turns over by hand and attempt to get it gassed up and get spark back with other repairs to the engine. Might possibly get it to run again, but I'd be surprised if the engine is not seized. It's ok if it is, I'm going to take it off and see about a rebuild or if it's shot, a replacement.

We will see after I do a close inspection when I get it home.

Thanks for tuning in on my thread
 

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Wow. I Would love to have a power steering model given to me in any condition. Regardless of how much you put into it. It will be worth it. Lots of hoses and tight workspace in the tower area to work on. Power steering models are not common but are found for sale often. They also come with a premium price. I'm working on a 4016ps that was left outside for a long time. Can't wait to get it back together. These are great machines. If your concerned about him dragging it around, have him put the rear axle in neutral.

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My worry right now is my friend is pulling it from the back yard to the front with his tractor. He said he will drag it up. I told him to make sure the back wheels spin, don't drag it wheels locked. It would be stupid to break the inside of it from doing that. Wish I could be there, but I can't, so....he says it spins, but been sitting so long.

My plan now will be to just see if engine turns over by hand and attempt to get it gassed up and get spark back with other repairs to the engine. Might possibly get it to run again, but I'd be surprised if the engine is not seized. It's ok if it is, I'm going to take it off and see about a rebuild or if it's shot, a replacement.

We will see after I do a close inspection when I get it home.

Thanks for tuning in on my thread
Assuming he moves the range selector to neutral it should be able to be towed just fine.

Good luck bringing it back to life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Assuming he moves the range selector to neutral it should be able to be towed just fine.

Good luck bringing it back to life.
Told him make sure it's freed up before pulling it. His idea is picking up the front with his 3 point hitch on the ytm and pulling it up to the driveway. It drives me nuts that the wheels won't turn and he will drag it anyways. If the rear breaks, it wouldn't be worth it IMO, seeing the engine is toast also. That tractor has been sitting for a long time outside. Rear could be seized to, just wish I could be there when he moves it
 

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Told him make sure it's freed up before pulling it. His idea is picking up the front with his 3 point hitch on the ytm and pulling it up to the driveway. It drives me nuts that the wheels won't turn and he will drag it anyways. If the rear breaks, it wouldn't be worth it IMO, seeing the engine is toast also. That tractor has been sitting for a long time outside. Rear could be seized to, just wish I could be there when he moves it
Is he at all familiar with the tractor? The range selector is located just below the seat. See below. There is a hole in the lever and a pin on the mounting surface. Move the lever so the pin is in the hole and it will be in neutral. Sometimes it takes rocking the tractor back and forth a bit to switch the range selector.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
He just told me he is going to lift the back end up, because the 3 point hitch is touching the ground. I told him to wait and I'll come down and keep the front wheels straight. So that will be a relief. Just don't want to break anything huge... Kinda want to get away without getting into gearboxes, hopefully a mild engine overhaul and paint to get it going again. Then decide on a full restoration from there
 

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Told him make sure it's freed up before pulling it. His idea is picking up the front with his 3 point hitch on the ytm and pulling it up to the driveway. It drives me nuts that the wheels won't turn and he will drag it anyways. If the rear breaks, it wouldn't be worth it IMO, seeing the engine is toast also. That tractor has been sitting for a long time outside. Rear could be seized to, just wish I could be there when he moves it
Dragging it not rolling isn’t going to break anything, probably could drag it upside down and not. Hurt much.
 

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I think you are being prudent with how to pull it out ... better to lift from the back.

As most have noted, normally you could just drag the tractor around and especially if the transaxle is in neutral. Nothing would really get hurt.

This time of year in New York, with a tractor long stored outdoors, do be a bit concerned about water in the rear axle and potentially frozen / iced up.

While you are quite likely to get away with no internal axle work (very rugged design), we do often find tractors long stored outdoors that have water in the axle. Combination of missing bolts and/or simply condensation. In most all cases, a simply oil change, some further use, then change it up again is enough to relieve any internal issues.

Great tractor to bring back up to life if the basics prove out well enough.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm going there tomorrow to help get it out of there and onto a trailer. Going to be a long day with work to, but I'll feel better knowing it wasn't pulled by its teeth. I'll probably put a strap around the rear hitch and we will pull the back up with the bucket on his ytm tractor. If the front wheels are seized up, it's no problem they aren't treaded and we have snow on the ground, will slide. I'd rather mess upp the front wheels rather than dragging a locked up rear end.

Here is a short video I took yesterday... The tractor looks to be complete other than a couple of engine covers, but it is a dead horse and needs quite a lot of attention. Even the hood is decent, no dents or rust....it just looks like it will be a nice project to do up.

Can't wait to start on the paint and making it look new. I once did a Ford 8n and made it look new. Just something about tractors that are fun to paint.
 

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The 3 point being on the ground is not a problem, one of you guys pull up on the arms while the other works the lift lever to open the hydraulic valve and let the oil flow thru it.

The Onans are in the torque monster class, compared to a modern engine of the same HP. The hydraulic drive of these tractors only uses up to about 9 HP max. Where the extra torque comes in handy is on the belt driven mower (thick / wet grass) and the snow caster (wet heavy snow). So a repower with the same HP modern engine will reduce performance in those conditions, but be perfectly fine in normal conditions. Also with fuel prices being what they are currently, the modern engine will be way easier on fuel consumption. It has been said by other that know Onans better, that the Onan is a well designed engine from basically the 1930's with minor changes that stayed in production until the EPA got involved.

Small Engine Warehouse, is one of several repower specialists that not only sell engines, but have package deals with adaptors and whatnot to adapt the new engine into a old tractor.

Something's to consider if the cost of a rebuild or repower scares you. 1. It is a power steering tractor. 2. The last time I looked on ebay that 3 point hitch was $800 used. 3. The hydraulic PTO valve with hose and tubes was in the $400 range on ebay. I am not advocating parting it out, rather pointing out their is a lot of value there making it well worth rebuilding the Onan or repowering. If you tear into the Onan and need parts lookup Boomer here on this site he is a member and can help out with knowledge and parts.

And if that was in MN I'd love to bring it home. You are a lucky man (y)

Cheers,
Gordy
 
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