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My 4020 revival(hopefully)

5231 Views 119 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Eric2.0, 
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Hello, I'm new and this is my first question.


A friend has this and he is giving it to me for free to free up his yard where it has sat still for 5 years since the engine blew. It doesnt look real bad, it looks to be original and complete and not bent up frame wise or anything. I know for like a couple of thousand I can get one of these that run and look better and it's not like this is a real old tractor classic, but man, it looks cool.
My approach is to look it over real good, note broken things or missing things, see if I can get the engine to turn over by hand(has a cylinder head loosened up) go from there. In a perfect world I am hoping for a light rebuild on the engine, some paint and all good.

Or maybe this is a parts machine and not worth the effort.that is why I am here. Seeing these pictures, would any of you bother with this tractor in this condition? or should I part it out.. The price is free so I won't be out nothing.

thanks all. Tire Wheel Vehicle Tractor Automotive tire
Wheel Tire Snow Vehicle Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tractor
Automotive tire Tractor Vehicle Motor vehicle Agricultural machinery
Snow Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire
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My worry right now is my friend is pulling it from the back yard to the front with his tractor. He said he will drag it up. I told him to make sure the back wheels spin, don't drag it wheels locked. It would be stupid to break the inside of it from doing that. Wish I could be there, but I can't, so....he says it spins, but been sitting so long.

My plan now will be to just see if engine turns over by hand and attempt to get it gassed up and get spark back with other repairs to the engine. Might possibly get it to run again, but I'd be surprised if the engine is not seized. It's ok if it is, I'm going to take it off and see about a rebuild or if it's shot, a replacement.

We will see after I do a close inspection when I get it home.

Thanks for tuning in on my thread
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a66coup289 said:
Assuming he moves the range selector to neutral it should be able to be towed just fine.

Good luck bringing it back to life.
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Told him make sure it's freed up before pulling it. His idea is picking up the front with his 3 point hitch on the ytm and pulling it up to the driveway. It drives me nuts that the wheels won't turn and he will drag it anyways. If the rear breaks, it wouldn't be worth it IMO, seeing the engine is toast also. That tractor has been sitting for a long time outside. Rear could be seized to, just wish I could be there when he moves it
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He just told me he is going to lift the back end up, because the 3 point hitch is touching the ground. I told him to wait and I'll come down and keep the front wheels straight. So that will be a relief. Just don't want to break anything huge... Kinda want to get away without getting into gearboxes, hopefully a mild engine overhaul and paint to get it going again. Then decide on a full restoration from there
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SDenison said:
If you decide to pass on this, let me know and i will be Happy to take it off your hands!
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I will for sure if I decide. I'd like to see it go to an enthusiast rather than a scrapper. After I look at it all I'll decide.
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I'm going there tomorrow to help get it out of there and onto a trailer. Going to be a long day with work to, but I'll feel better knowing it wasn't pulled by its teeth. I'll probably put a strap around the rear hitch and we will pull the back up with the bucket on his ytm tractor. If the front wheels are seized up, it's no problem they aren't treaded and we have snow on the ground, will slide. I'd rather mess upp the front wheels rather than dragging a locked up rear end.

Here is a short video I took yesterday... The tractor looks to be complete other than a couple of engine covers, but it is a dead horse and needs quite a lot of attention. Even the hood is decent, no dents or rust....it just looks like it will be a nice project to do up.

Can't wait to start on the paint and making it look new. I once did a Ford 8n and made it look new. Just something about tractors that are fun to paint.
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I'm going today and we are getting that tractor up out of the brush. Going to lift the rear and drag it backwards with rear tires in the air. I have a chain I think I can hook Into the hitch and pull it straight up and drag. If there is a better way to lift up the rear end with chains, let me know. I really don't want to strap onto any of the three point hitch apparatus or arms. This thing is heavy and don't want to bend the tow hitch upwards in a dead lift. I'm sure it will take it....I'm being paranoid probably.
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We successfully retrieved the 4020 from the ground and pulled it up to the driveway with no problems. I simply wrapped a chain around the bucket of his tractor and around the hitch plate where it goes on the tractor frame area. We lifted the back up so the tires didn't touch and rolled it backwards on the fronts with no problems.

She sits up nice and looks good away from the grave it had been sitting. We noticed the right side cylinder head was loose, so we took it off and found out why the tractor was abandoned. It threw a valve, it was sticking out and that is why he was unable to get the head tightened down flat, because the valve is stuck open. Must of broke a spring or keeper. The top of the piston looks good and my hopes for the engine have grown.

I got a better look at the bottom of the tractor and many hoses under there and wow....it is built and heavy.

I do believe I'm going to put the work in to get it back to life, just too cool of a tractor to let die. He also found the original owners manual to it in his father in laws. Place. His father in law sadly passed away last year. Tire Wheel Vehicle Tractor Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Tractor Snow Vehicle


Well here she is out of the grave.
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ROCKLAND VALLEY said:
Great score and from a fellow Northeastener lol Welcome from Case Ingersoll Tractors Northeast! Where in NY are you?
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I'm in the Jefferson county area, near Watertown.
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Gordy said:
I know you were worried about the wheels being locked. When you had the rear in the air, did you grab the tires and try to give them a spin?

Looking at the picture the valve is on the oil filter side. So probably the exhaust valve seat popped out, this is common if the tractor was run without the rubber air seal between the filter and tin. With that seal missing enough cooling air is lost, to allow the block to overheat then the valve seat pops out.

Cheers,
Gordy
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Wow that seems like what happened. My plan is to try and get it going as is. I'm going to flood the engine with cheap oil and let it sit for a week or so and try and get the pistons rotating and fix the valve. I found the side cover for that side and will put some sort of seal in the oil filter area. Thanks for the explanation
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myerslawnandgarden said:
That's an HH34 3 point, they bring $500 used any day of the week. Did you get any attachments with this tractor?

Nice find,

Bob
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No attachments. He had the mowing deck and a snow blade for it, but he had scrappers there to clean the property and they took them. That sucks, but can't sulk about it now.
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I inspected this tractor more and I'm kinda wondering if I want to put money into this....I mean a lot.
It is pretty much complete with just a missing belly pan and one side cover where the pump is, but it is in rough shape. It has sat unused for ten years in the same spot, the rear end is seized, engine most likely seized, missing belly pan which I heard helps with cooling the hydropics. The steering wheel spins around easily without moving wheels at all. I don't know if this is because the power steering has leaked down with no pressure for so many years?

I also believe this tractor was used hard, as far as pulling logs, heavy mowing and pushing around rocks as he said. I'm in a sore spot if I want to do this tractor up, could be thousands and I found a 4016 on market place near me that runs with a mower deck for 1,200 dollars.

So...I might just try and get rear unsiezed and get the engine running, perhaps even get it to roll, but hesitant to spend a ton on this just yet. If I decide not to, I'll be parting it away, I'll give good deals sense I got this for free.
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mryeti117 said:
Eric,
I am currently in the middle of my rebuild of that same tractor mine had a destroyed rod and was running on one cylinder just got the block back from the shop and waiting on new rods and pistons to arrive if you would post some pictures of the engine before you tear into it I would like to see the throttle cable routing if possible mine had a modified throttle on it thanks and good luck with the restoration
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Oh for sure, no problem. Just got it home today, popped the hood and looks like all the cable and breather stuff are all intact. I'll get you detailed pictures and video.
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mryeti117 said:
That looks pretty mean with those ag tires on it
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I imagine with that type of tire, this tractor did some hard duty. With 1654 hours on the meter, pretty much everything is probably wore out. It looks to be complete and decent shape frame and body wise though.
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Vigo said:
Looks like it was owned by a DIY wrenching enthusiast at some point. You don't find Cometic stickers just all over the place, even among 'car guys'. And as a car guy putting 'the right tires' on something seems SUPER important to me even if i barely use the machine and the rubber money just ends up sitting there rotting. So who knows if it really did any work after the R1s went on. 😂
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a66coup289 said:
Pull the plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders and let that sit a few days
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The left side head was already loosened up when he was investigating the problem. The piston seems to be TDC on the exhaust stroke in that cylinder, because the valve is fully open. However it won't let the head sit flat on the cylinder because it hits the head when trying to put on. This tells me the valve is extended out from the seat way more than it should. The piston is TDC so hard to get oil to lube the entire length of the cylinder. I don't want to dry rub the cylinders, so I thought filling the crank case up full would get the oil in from the back side of the cylinder. I'll tip the tractor up on its side a little so oil can get down in the cylinder.

I never tried to rotate the engine yet, but it may rotate just fine. Sitting for a decade I didn't want to dry scuff the cylinders, so loading it with oil will make me more comfortable rotating it after a decade of sitting.
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mryeti117 said:
I see it has the rear hydraulics as well does it have a lift selector valve as well
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It must have controls for that someplace. I'm not sure which one it is yet. We had a snow storm today, so it was hard to see everything. I haven't gotten in the garage yet to let it thaw out and clean it. I did manage to get the axle to rotate which is a huge relief. Now I can pull it and not have a dead horse to move. It also gives me enthusiasm to keep going on this tractor.
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dundee222 said:
By whatever means get the poor girl inside where it's good and warm, even your living room if you need to! 10 years of sitting especially with a head off can and will allow water and condensation into all sorts of places, making even a good diagnosis of the internals impossible.
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I drained the old oil out and watched for any water or metal fragments, but found none. I got black, thick, old oil.. thankfully the Onan is a horizontal piston so less chance of water getting in. I'm working on getting it inside and warm it up now that I have the axle rolling so I can pull it.
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Seems to have a busted dipstick. I'll have to see if it slid down I to the crankcase now. I don't think this is the original cap either.

Where or who has one for sale? For a 4020, Onan.
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