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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Ok I got it! A few hours in the warm did the trick, axle turns like a free bird now. Dad's gonna air up the tires and I now have a roller, which is nice. I have the engine filled right up to the filler neck with fresh oil, the oil is seeping out the pistons so I know the cylinders are lubed up again. I didn't notice any metal flakes or water in the old oil either. Fix that valve and this may be running sometime next week.
 

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I have the tractor inside the garage with heat on to warm up and melt the ice in the rear end housing. So far I got the axles to rotate easily, but when I grab both hubs together and spin the same way, it's still locked up. I'm hoping an overnight in the heat will melt any remaining ice that may be holding it up. I have videos to upload tomorrow when I get time. Thanks guys, I'm starting to have some fun with this project. I'm pretty sure it's in neutral, but maybe I'm missing something. Could the hydrolic axle motor be seized?
If the two-speed transaxle shift lever is in neutral (pin through the hole), you will not be turning the hydraulic motor when turning the axles the same direction, you are only rotating the differential assembly. If you are in high or low range, I doubt if you will be able to turn the hydraulic motor by rotating the two axles together.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
If the two-speed transaxle shift lever is in neutral (pin through the hole), you will not be turning the hydraulic motor when turning the axles the same direction, you are only rotating the differential assembly. If you are in high or low range, I doubt if you will be able to turn the hydraulic motor by rotating the two axles together.

Bob
Yepp after a few hours in a heated space, the ice melted in the rear housing and everything is spinning free now. I tipped the tractor so the water can drain out the drain plug. I have no idea how that much water got in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
If the two-speed transaxle shift lever is in neutral (pin through the hole), you will not be turning the hydraulic motor when turning the axles the same direction, you are only rotating the differential assembly. If you are in high or low range, I doubt if you will be able to turn the hydraulic motor by rotating the two axles together.

Bob
Yepp after a few hours in a heated space, the ice melted in the rear housing and everything is spinning free now. I tipped the tractor so the water can drain out the drain plug. I have no idea how that much water got in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Eric,
I am currently in the middle of my rebuild of that same tractor mine had a destroyed rod and was running on one cylinder just got the block back from the shop and waiting on new rods and pistons to arrive if you would post some pictures of the engine before you tear into it I would like to see the throttle cable routing if possible mine had a modified throttle on it thanks and good luck with the restoration
I made a video of the cable routing. My video skills suck and I had bad lighting. I'll try and get a better shot later, but here is a general idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Here is a video I did last night and overview of my 4020. Since the video I have gotten the rear freed up and de-iced, spins perfectly now. It may be in rough shape, but there is no rust and it is about 98% complete. I currently flooded the inside of the engine with oil and starting tear down of the manifold/carb in order to inspect the valve train underneath. I'm hoping to get this old girl running next week.

 

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I'd be surprised if you have a bent valve. Have you pulled the valve cover off on that side to see what's going on? You'll have to do that anyways to pull that valve out of there anyways,

Here's a link to when I redid my performer. Might give you some ideas,,or not,, The one thing I will say, I mounted that motor into a 646 I had,, and it was a pretty decent motor,,(since sold to a member that was on here a few yrs back,,)

Overall, your tractor looks decent. Needs some TLC, but I've no doubt it'll see many useful yrs in front of it,,
 

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It must have controls for that someplace. I'm not sure which one it is yet. We had a snow storm today, so it was hard to see everything. I haven't gotten in the garage yet to let it thaw out and clean it. I did manage to get the axle to rotate which is a huge relief. Now I can pull it and not have a dead horse to move. It also gives me enthusiasm to keep going on this tractor.
The selector valve is a owners modification. The factory just put 2 T fittings on the valve and connected both the midlift and 3 point hoses to the T's. So you are moving both at the same time. With the selector valve you remove one of the T fittings and replace it with a hose going to where you want the selector valve mounted. Then you need two new hoses to reach from the selector valve to the two cylinders. There are a number of threads here about installing the selector valve, and there are 3 options for the velve. Some have used a electric valve, others have used a push/pull valve and others have used a 90 degree rotary valve these are listed in descending order of $$$ spent.

This member has 2 kit options for tractor type and desired valve locations. These can save a lot of time, measuring and guess work.

Video,

Kit #1
https://www.caseingersolltractors.c...ector-valve-kit-for-3-point-hitch-kit-style-1

Kit #3

If you need to do this, it will of course be on the backburner for a while ;)

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Here is the valve train on the bad side. The stuck open valve is on the left. Looks like too much lifter coming out of the bore to me and it kinda locked there in place? I know how an engine works, but I tellya I don't know what I'm looking at with this stuck open valve. I see nothing broken in there.
 

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Good picture of the valve lifters,

You can pull that lifter out of there, by removing the valve spring locks,, but before doing that,

I don't remember if you mentioned the motor turns or not? If you take a small bar, can you move the crankshaft around in a complete turn, assuming you can, any movement of the lifters?

Here's a link, the only value here is of the pictures,, to kind of give you an idea of what things should look like, and how it should be,, cam, crankshaft, valves, timing gears, ect
This is on a B48M, but yours, for the most part, should look like in the pictures, excluding the ignition control side of things, This one, was a new short block, but for some reason, it had the wrong Cam in it,, which took me a bit to figure that out,

 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Can you rotate the engine, even a little, by hand? Enough to see if the cam is moving??? I'll bet you can see where this is going,,,,,,
I haven't tried to rotate the engine yet. That was my plan for tomorrow and to see how the valves respond. I've had the engine in a bath of 5 quarts of oil I shoved in it, lol in an attempt to get it internally well lubed after a 10 year hibernation. I cleaned out rat nests and you name it, it was in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Good picture of the valve lifters,

You can pull that lifter out of there, by removing the valve spring locks,, but before doing that,

I don't remember if you mentioned the motor turns or not? If you take a small bar, can you move the crankshaft around in a complete turn, assuming you can, any movement of the lifters?

Here's a link, the only value here is of the pictures,, to kind of give you an idea of what things should look like, and how it should be,, cam, crankshaft, valves, timing gears, ect
This is on a B48M, but yours, for the most part, should look like in the pictures, excluding the ignition control side of things, This one, was a new short block, but for some reason, it had the wrong Cam in it,, which took me a bit to figure that out,

I'm going to try to rotate the engine tomorrow. I wanted it to soak in fresh oil before I do, so it's well lubed and not dry scuff the pistons. This thing has sat for a looooonnng time....10 years outside thanks for the link. That will be useful
 

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There is 3 tiny screws holding the air cleaner assy onto the carb. When you started tearing into it, did you.notice if all 3 screws were there? Of one of missing it could have fallen into intake and is now stuck at the valve holding it open. Just a thought

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
There is 3 tiny screws holding the air cleaner assy onto the carb. When you started tearing into it, did you.notice if all 3 screws were there? Of one of missing it could have fallen into intake and is now stuck at the valve holding it open. Just a thought

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Yepp the screws holding the air cleaner base on are all there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Well this is unfortunate. I have some rust spots on the left cylinder. They don't look bad, hopefully some naval jelly and steel wool will help it. I can feel a slight bump when I run my finger over it. I'm just trying to get this engine running as is for now. I know eventually it will need a full rebuild, as it has signs of being very tired.
 
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