My 4020 revival(hopefully)

5231 Views 119 Replies 20 Participants Last post by Eric2.0, 4 mo ago

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · 5 mo ago (Edited)

Hello, I'm new and this is my first question.

A friend has this and he is giving it to me for free to free up his yard where it has sat still for 5 years since the engine blew. It doesnt look real bad, it looks to be original and complete and not bent up frame wise or anything. I know for like a couple of thousand I can get one of these that run and look better and it's not like this is a real old tractor classic, but man, it looks cool.
My approach is to look it over real good, note broken things or missing things, see if I can get the engine to turn over by hand(has a cylinder head loosened up) go from there. In a perfect world I am hoping for a light rebuild on the engine, some paint and all good.

Or maybe this is a parts machine and not worth the effort.that is why I am here. Seeing these pictures, would any of you bother with this tractor in this condition? or should I part it out.. The price is free so I won't be out nothing.

thanks all.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Tractor Automotive tire

Wheel Tire Snow Vehicle Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tractor

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mryeti117

· #81 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
Well this is unfortunate. I have some rust spots on the left cylinder. They don't look bad, hopefully some naval jelly and steel wool will help it. I can feel a slight bump when I run my finger over it. I'm just trying to get this engine running as is for now. I know eventually it will need a full rebuild, as it has signs of being very tired.

I'm not sure if steel wool would be your best plan of attack a brass brush would most likely work better with less chance of damaging your cylinder

Reactions: 1

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #82 · 4 mo ago

mryeti117 said:
I'm not sure if steel wool would be your best plan of attack a brass brush would most likely work better with less chance of damaging your cylinder

Thanks for the tip. I used steel wool on a snowmobile cylinder once, but I'll try a brass brush. Always looking for better ways, thanks.

I'll get you a better video of the cable linkages later.

Reactions: 1

dundee222

· #83 · 4 mo ago

A razor blade can also work. It is often used to remove rust on machine tool surfaces. [DON'T put it on your razor afterwards though]. A little scotchbrite wheel will do nicely too as it will really only remove the rust which is above the surface.

Reactions: 4

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #84 · 4 mo ago

Here is what is done so far and getting the total estimate of everything that needs addressing. Obviously get it to turn over, fix that valve, a deep degreasing, carb rebuild, get power to the wires and such.

Reactions: 2

Harry

· #85 · 4 mo ago

Could you take off the valve spring then work the valve up and down in the guide? Maybe the valve stem is scored. I’ve freed a stuck valve stem by cleaning up the stem. Then check the lifter for clearance in the lifter bore to see if it’s sticking. ✌ Harry

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #86 · 4 mo ago

Yah she's sized like a brick wall, won't budge at all...I mean at all even grabbing the fly wheel and a wrench on the crank. I'm thinking because the engine is bolted to the hydro pump, the pump could be seized. My plan now is to take the engine out and see if it spins separate from the oil pump. If not, then I'll pull the oil pan and take a look. Perhaps the rods are broke I dont know.

Not giving up yet.

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mryeti117

· #87 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
Yah she's sized like a brick wall, won't budge at all...I mean at all even grabbing the fly wheel and a wrench on the crank. I'm thinking because the engine is bolted to the hydro pump, the pump could be seized. My plan now is to take the engine out and see if it spins separate from the oil pump. If not, then I'll pull the oil pan and take a look. Perhaps the rods are broke I dont know.

Not giving up yet.

Besides the engine oil have you sprayed any penetrating lube in the cylinders if not and if you can find it grab some Aerokroil spray it down and let it sit overnight should loosen up your local Napa should have it in stock makes pb blaster and wd40 look like water!

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ROCKLAND VALLEY

· #88 · 4 mo ago

Gordy said:
The selector valve is a owners modification. The factory just put 2 T fittings on the valve and connected both the midlift and 3 point hoses to the T's. So you are moving both at the same time. With the selector valve you remove one of the T fittings and replace it with a hose going to where you want the selector valve mounted. Then you need two new hoses to reach from the selector valve to the two cylinders. There are a number of threads here about installing the selector valve, and there are 3 options for the velve. Some have used a electric valve, others have used a push/pull valve and others have used a 90 degree rotary valve these are listed in descending order of $$$ spent.

This member has 2 kit options for tractor type and desired valve locations. These can save a lot of time, measuring and guess work.

Video,

Kit #1
https://www.caseingersolltractors.c...ector-valve-kit-for-3-point-hitch-kit-style-1

Kit #3

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www.caseingersolltractors.com

If you need to do this, it will of course be on the backburner for a while

Cheers,
Gordy

Thanks Buddy it is much appreciated!!

Reactions: 2

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #89 · 4 mo ago

mryeti117 said:
Besides the engine oil have you sprayed any penetrating lube in the cylinders if not and if you can find it grab some Aerokroil spray it down and let it sit overnight should loosen up your local Napa should have it in stock makes pb blaster and wd40 look like water!

I haven't done any pb blaster or anything. I thought seeing oil seep past the rings, nothing would be seized . I probably had a quarter of a quart seep past the rings on both sides after I filled the crankcase with like 5 quarts of oil. I'm thinking the hydrolic pump the engine is attached to, might be seized itself and preventing engine from rotating.

I believe my best bet is to take the engine out, pull the oil pan, see what's inside and rule out the hydrolic pump being seized. I'll try the stuff you suggested. Thanks, much 👍

Reactions: 1

mryeti117

· #90 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
I haven't done any pb blaster or anything. I thought seeing oil seep past the rings, nothing would be seized . I probably had a quarter of a quart seep past the rings on both sides after I filled the crankcase with like 5 quarts of oil. I'm thinking the hydrolic pump the engine is attached to, might be seized itself and preventing engine from rotating.

I believe my best bet is to take the engine out, pull the oil pan, see what's inside and rule out the hydrolic pump being seized. I'll try the stuff you suggested. Thanks, much 👍

Wood Gas Motor vehicle Font Auto part

hopefully yours doesn't look like mine did lol but I'm on the reassembly side of mine now! BTW this was running on 1 cylinder just goes to show they don't make them like they used to

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Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #91 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

mryeti117 said:
View attachment 128556 hopefully yours doesn't look like mine did lol but I'm on the reassembly side of mine now! BTW this was running on 1 cylinder just goes to show they don't make them like they used to

I hope not either. Even if mine is Perma seized I'm hoping I have something that can be refreshed. I don't feel like the cost and work of a repower.

I guess today I'm going to get some Kroil, remove the engine so I can inspect the rods and crank and hopefully the engine was only bolted to a sized up hydrolic pump. I'll know when I unbolt it from the pump.

I noticed my engine says " meets epa regulations of 1995-1998. I assume this tractor is of that era. I was hoping it was older than that, just makes me feel like I'm fixing up a 1976 mustang and not a real 1968 mustang, lol.

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mryeti117

· #92 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
I hope not either. Even if mine is Perma seized I'm hoping I have something that can be refreshed. I don't feel like the cost and work of a repower.

I guess today I'm going to get some Kroil, remove the engine so I can inspect the rods and crank and hopefully the engine was only bolted to a sized up hydrolic pump. I'll know when I unbolt it from the pump.

I noticed my engine says " meets epa regulations of 1995-1998. I assume this tractor is of that era. I was hoping it was older than that, just makes me feel like I'm fixing up a 1976 mustang and not a real 1968 mustang, lol.

Far as cost to rebuild goes at least for me I'm under $500 so far only thing I'm waiting on is connecting rods

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #93 · 4 mo ago

Well the left side piston moves, trouble is, the other piston and crank don't move. So broken rod or wrist pin I guess. Also I snapped my Allen key socket into the set screw trying to separate the coupler between the engine and hydro pump. I cannot get the engine separated.

I believe I'm done with this thing. All the hoses are dry rotted, needs a lot of work and money, engine is bad. Oh well I just wanted to see what it would take. Way more than what I want to put into it.

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mryeti117

· #94 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
Well the left side piston moves, trouble is, the other piston and crank don't move. So broken rod or wrist pin I guess. Also I snapped my Allen key socket into the set screw trying to separate the coupler between the engine and hydro pump. I cannot get the engine separated.

I believe I'm done with this thing. All the hoses are dry rotted, needs a lot of work and money, engine is bad. Oh well I just wanted to see what it would take. Way more than what I want to put into it.

That's unfortunate but if you do decide to throw in the towel I would be interested in some parts if your going to part it out

Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #95 · 4 mo ago

I'll decide tomorrow if I will part it. It all depends if I can get the engine off.

On this there is a coupler between the engine and the hydro pump under the dash. I saw an Allen key set screw(I think) so I got my Allen socket with extension and snapped my Allen socket. I thought I could just loosen the set screw and slide the engine off the pump shaft. Nope

Next I took out all the bolts holding the coupler to the engine and pulled on the engine with no sign of separation from the pump shaft. I don't get why the damn thing won't come off.

Lionel

· #96 · 4 mo ago

Motor and pump should come out as a unit,, hoses disconnected off pump?

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Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #97 · 4 mo ago

Lionel said:
Motor and pump should come out as a unit,, hoses disconnected off pump?

I didn't know that. No hoses still.on.

Obviously I don't have a lot of experience with these, thanks

Reactions: 1

mryeti117

· #98 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
I'll decide tomorrow if I will part it. It all depends if I can get the engine off.

On this there is a coupler between the engine and the hydro pump under the dash. I saw an Allen key set screw(I think) so I got my Allen socket with extension and snapped my Allen socket. I thought I could just loosen the set screw and slide the engine off the pump shaft. Nope

Next I took out all the bolts holding the coupler to the engine and pulled on the engine with no sign of separation from the pump shaft. I don't get why the damn thing won't come off.

There are 2 set screws I ran into the same issue when I pulled mine off minus the broken Allen socket soak her down with the Kroil overnight and it ought to come loose

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Eric2.0

Discussion Starter · #99 · 4 mo ago

mryeti117 said:
There are 2 set screws I ran into the same issue when I pulled mine off minus the broken Allen socket soak her down with the Kroil overnight and it ought to come loose

Did you remove the entire engine and pump out as a unit? I was told the pump will come out with the engine if the hoses are detached. I can't see the other Allen screw because I can't spin the motor over to get at it.

I'll let you know where I'm going with this machine as far as parts. If the engine is proved to be shot I'll part it out. I'm not going to do a repower or anything like that.

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myerslawnandgarden

· #100 · 4 mo ago

Eric2.0 said:
Well the left side piston moves, trouble is, the other piston and crank don't move. So broken rod or wrist pin I guess. Also I snapped my Allen key socket into the set screw trying to separate the coupler between the engine and hydro pump. I cannot get the engine separated.

I believe I'm done with this thing. All the hoses are dry rotted, needs a lot of work and money, engine is bad. Oh well I just wanted to see what it would take. Way more than what I want to put into it.

Eric,

No need to remove the set screws from the lovejoy coupling halves, one will stay with the engine and one with the pump after you remove the 4 bolts that hold the pump mounting bracket to the engine block. Neither coupling is attached to the other, the cushion (spider) is the only connection.

Bob

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