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My 4020 revival(hopefully)

5231 Views 119 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Eric2.0
Hello, I'm new and this is my first question.


A friend has this and he is giving it to me for free to free up his yard where it has sat still for 5 years since the engine blew. It doesnt look real bad, it looks to be original and complete and not bent up frame wise or anything. I know for like a couple of thousand I can get one of these that run and look better and it's not like this is a real old tractor classic, but man, it looks cool.
My approach is to look it over real good, note broken things or missing things, see if I can get the engine to turn over by hand(has a cylinder head loosened up) go from there. In a perfect world I am hoping for a light rebuild on the engine, some paint and all good.

Or maybe this is a parts machine and not worth the effort.that is why I am here. Seeing these pictures, would any of you bother with this tractor in this condition? or should I part it out.. The price is free so I won't be out nothing.

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Eric,

No need to remove the set screws from the lovejoy coupling halves, one will stay with the engine and one with the pump after you remove the 4 bolts that hold the pump mounting bracket to the engine block. Neither coupling is attached to the other, the cushion (spider) is the only connection.

Bob
After I snapped the Allen key, I put a long reach, half inch, ratchet box end wrench between the firewall and engine to get those 4 bolts out. I got them out and thought the engine would pop loose, but nope. I don't want to force it off, so I decided to disconnect the hoses from the pump and slide it out as a whole unit. It doesn't look like a fun job disconnecting the hoses either. I may just cut the hoses in there, because they are all in bad shape anyways.
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Did you remove the entire engine and pump out as a unit? I was told the pump will come out with the engine if the hoses are detached. I can't see the other Allen screw because I can't spin the motor over to get at it.

I'll let you know where I'm going with this machine as far as parts. If the engine is proved to be shot I'll part it out. I'm not going to do a repower or anything like that.
I removed the engine without removing the pump took the 4 bolts off the coupler tried to remove the engine it wouldn't come apart loosened those 2 set screws and it came right apart I believe they are 180 out from each other probably gunked over like mine were
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I already tried getting set screws out. Snapped my Allen socket on first one and I can't get to the other one, because I cannot spin the shaft around to get to it. Everything is seized up bad. Then I took them se four bolts out thinking that would work, nope. I guess my only option is to disconnect the pump hoses and draw it out attached to engine as a unit, as summoned suggested here. It's tight in the pump housing I might cut the hoses, they are all bad shape anyways.
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The 4 bolts that hold the pump adapter to the engine would not provide a good enough shafts alignment by themselves, the block is machined with a step on it that the adaptor slides over to hold the adapter in perfect alignment. This is a tight almost interference fit, and will require some help to seperate. If using a pry bar look for reinforced parts of the block to pry against, and DON'T try and do it in one motion, do it in small steps in as many places as possible. Another option with the engine loose is to use one knee and hand to apply a side to side twisting motion to the engine and hold it there, then tap the pump end of the adaptor with a hammer a couple times, them reserse the twisting direction and tap the other side of the adaptor, rinse and repeat till it comes apart. Again don't get carried away and use a BFH to try and get it off in one huge smack.

Cheers,
Gordy

Ps; I wish that tractor was close to me 🤔 I am not flush with boat loads of cash, but to me it would be well worth a repower to get it running again. Especially considering what you paid for it to begin with ;) But then again I have been into these tractors for about 20 years and know what I like 😁
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I confirmed it has a broken rod, lol. All kinds of bits and pieces in the oil pan. Besides the broken rod, the crank journal is scored badly, but I don't see anything else chipped or broke. Bottom of piston bores look good.

This engine has 1600 hours and a broken rod. I guess I'm going to decide on where I want to go with this project. I'm not sure if the engine is good to rebuild, guess I'll spend time taking it down to the block and measuring things out. So would this thing be rebuild able or should it be parted? Lots of hours, broken rod and aluminum block. Heres some nice pics of the carnage

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I confirmed it has a broken rod, lol. All kinds of bits and pieces in the oil pan. Besides the broken rod, the crank journal is scored badly, but I don't see anything else chipped or broke. Bottom of piston bores look good.

This engine has 1600 hours and a broken rod. I guess I'm going to decide on where I want to go with this project. I'm not sure if the engine is good to rebuild, guess I'll spend time taking it down to the block and measuring things out. So would this thing be rebuild able or should it be parted? Lots of hours, broken rod and aluminum block. Heres some nice pics of the carnage
Looks like just aluminum scoring a little muriatic acid will clean that off. Clean it up and measure everything and you should be good to go ! Ive attached a picture of mine as an example
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You should price out what you think you'd need,, Contact Bob @
boomers_influence

for parts, great guy!! He's a member on here as well,,
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I should ask,, and the valve lifter is now free floating again?
Same as any rebuild, mike your bores both top and bottom [Onans are notorious for wearing the bottom of the bores due to rod angle], also of course, your crank throws and mains. The cam bearings will need changed, especially the back one as it is only splash oiled. Honing the bores 10 or 20 over is not that hard if you have a rigid hone, large drill press and proper measuring tools. If the crank needs attention, well that you will probably have to farm out or buy a good one.
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I should ask,, and the valve lifter is now free floating again?
No it isn't. I haven't really looked at it hard yet, planning on that tomorrow.
You should price out what you think you'd need,, Contact Bob @
boomers_influence

for parts, great guy!! He's a member on here as well,,
Oh for sure. I'm going to examine things and see what it will take. Obviously a new rod, but the crank journal might be gouged beyond repair. Not sure yet.
Looks like just aluminum scoring a little muriatic acid will clean that off. Clean it up and measure everything and you should be good to go ! Ive attached a picture of mine as an example View attachment 128563
Oh I do hope I can get away with cleaning the journal and putting in a rod, just to get it running. BTW I have a more detailed video coming about the cable routing for you. I'll get it up tomorrow.
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Onans aren't as easy to rebuild as say a K series Kohler or iron block Briggs [remember those? When Briggs made a near bulletproof engine.] but when she is all done correctly, oh man,,, what smooovvve power and song! Why, you could set a wine glass on the air cleaner at full cry and it wouldn't spill!
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Eric,
I am currently in the middle of my rebuild of that same tractor mine had a destroyed rod and was running on one cylinder just got the block back from the shop and waiting on new rods and pistons to arrive if you would post some pictures of the engine before you tear into it I would like to see the throttle cable routing if possible mine had a modified throttle on it thanks and good luck with the restoration
I made another, better video on how my cables are routed. I hope this helps better than the last one.

'eric
Eric,
I am currently in the middle of my rebuild of that same tractor mine had a destroyed rod and was running on one cylinder just got the block back from the shop and waiting on new rods and pistons to arrive if you would post some pictures of the engine before you tear into it I would like to see the throttle cable routing if possible mine had a modified throttle on it thanks and good luck with the restoration
I made a better video of the cable routing. Hope it helps.
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My original plan was to just get everything cleaned up, freed up, put in some new gas and get it to rip, but a broken road changed that plan. I would really like to put in a new rod and see if I can get it running without a full build. I know eventually I will need to do a full build, but I just want to see if this tractor will move under power and if the hydrolics all work. I don't want to install a fresh onan on a dead tractor drivetrain. If I can throw a rod in it(no pun intended) and just get it going, making sure tracor is able to function under power, then I'll feel better about restoring the entire tractor while engine is being built.

The plan now, is, Taking to cooling cover off the engine and other stuff so I can better remove the piston and try to get other piston unsiezed as well as see what is going on with that stuck open valve. I am thinking a fragment of road got wedged up in there in the valve cam. here is the current state of my tractor.....this video is for recording a reference if I need to remember how things go. cant get enough videos and pictures when I get this deep, lol
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I have the p220g soaking in kroil in the good cylinder and did a checkout of the crankcase. Here you can see scoring on the crank journal and broken rod. The actual crankcase looks ok don't see any cracks, dents, chunks in the crankcase itself. Cam looks good for what I see of it.

Another video, lol
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I made another, better video on how my cables are routed. I hope this helps better than the last one.

'eric

I made a better video of the cable routing. Hope it helps.
Thank you it is very helpful looks like how I was wanting to route the throttle however the arm shown at 2:42 in the video is where I'm lost my throttle cable is one piece and not 2 and I cannot find that arm in the parts manual anywhere
I probably shouldn't, but I plan to just replace that broken rod, polish up the marred crank journal(if it's possible) and call it a day. I don't want to do a full rebuild of anything before I can see if this tractor will move under power. I don't know if the hydropics even work. I won't work the engine, just enough to drive the tractor around the yard, checking for function.
I wouldn't worry too much about the hydraulics. Pretty simple setup outside of the friggin' power streering. Is there any oil still in the system?
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I wouldn't worry too much about the hydraulics. Pretty simple setup outside of the friggin' power streering. Is there any oil still in the system?
Around. Gallon and a half of oil drained out when I removed the hydrolic filter and disconnected the pump lines. What a mess I had
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