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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After seeing how expensive ($1,000 and up) and very little often, and far away, that the case/ingersoll hydracutters come up for sale, I decided it was time to build my own instead. I found a deal local on some 1/4'' plate in 2'x4' sections, so I had to piece them together to get 4'x4' (no big deal though). The goal was to keep the total weight in a fair place, and the build cost under what they sell for used. Using the 1/4'' plate allowed for less bracing needed, and it should last forever. Thanks to a few good case/ingersoll dealers help ( I think they are probably all on this site as well), I eventually found the correct Parker replacement motor to drive everything. It wasn't cheap, but with everything added up I'm still under my end price range. I used a (new) spindle/blade assembly from a DR power equipment pull behind brush cutter. I sized the pulleys to match the original case/ing. one. So it should be around the same rpm according to the calculator I used. Its still a work in progress (all fabrication is finished), I'm waiting for some warmer days to come to start painting it. The total weight is about 400lbs, according to my hanging scale I used to weight it. So I'm roughly 90 lbs. heavier then the factory case/ing. one (310lbs. per the manual). It uses a turnbuckle to raise/lower the wheels. Feel free to ask any questions, I'm defiantly happy with the outcome so far. Once the weather breaks, I will start painting and then assembly, then it's test time:thumbup:
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Nice work SteelWorker27. I can appreciate the craftsmanship in your project! :clap: :thumbup: :cool:

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
 

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I like it. Looks like it will take care of the job nicely. Nice fab work. I'd rather make it myself then buy it too.

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Now we just want to know:

What hub did you use for the blade?

What model and displacement of hydraulic motor is that?

Pulley sizes?

And of course a video of it out mowing off small trees.

great build... I am envious..
 

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Sweet!!!n I see the turnbuckle for setting your working height, but how do you plan to raise and lower it for transport or uneven ground rocks ect. Also another tip. I have a regular hydraulic offset bush hog and use it 40+ hours a year mowing ditch banks and along lanes ect. The biggest power requirement is not cutting, but getting rid of the cut grass and weeds from under the deck. leave your rear chain guards easily removable so the blade can eject the cut up stuff without resistance. I have no chains on either end of mine as they tend to flatten fine grass and weeds making it much harder for the blades to pick up and cut, but I only use a cab tractor. Much safer too when you mow over a wasp's nest or the bee's nest that are buried in the ground.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now we just want to know:

What hub did you use for the blade?

What model and displacement of hydraulic motor is that?

Pulley sizes?

And of course a video of it out mowing off small trees.

great build... I am envious..
Thanks! I will post all of that stuff once I test everything and make sure its up to my standards. The last thing I want to do is give out false information right now on what to buy if it doesn't work right.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sweet!!!n I see the turnbuckle for setting your working height, but how do you plan to raise and lower it for transport or uneven ground rocks ect. Also another tip. I have a regular hydraulic offset bush hog and use it 40+ hours a year mowing ditch banks and along lanes ect. The biggest power requirement is not cutting, but getting rid of the cut grass and weeds from under the deck. leave your rear chain guards easily removable so the blade can eject the cut up stuff without resistance. I have no chains on either end of mine as they tend to flatten fine grass and weeds making it much harder for the blades to pick up and cut, but I only use a cab tractor. Much safer too when you mow over a wasp's nest or the bee's nest that are buried in the ground.:eek:
I plan to raise and lower the front by my ''modified'' sleeve hitch that I have. More on that later (pics to come once it get it installed) That way I can raise up the front height to clear things. I was very hesitant to install the chains like I did. Actually I didn't want anything on the front or rear either. That was my thought exactly, was they would probably keep the debris underneath longer and it might end up possibly bogging down the tractor. But the more digging around on the web, the more it convinced me to add some kind of deflectors. I kept reading the horror stories about rocks and debris flying out, hitting the operator, other objects, people.. etc.. so who knows. They are easily removable by bolts. So if I don't like them I will just take them off.
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I was wondering what you were planning on using for a blade underneath to do the mowing with? Maybe you could post a pic of the blade? Thanks in advance. :clap:

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sure,
Here's a few pics of the blades and carrier. It will use two blades that are the swinging style. The carrier is made from heavy 3/8'' plate to help with rotating mass. The blades, carrier and spindle are all made by DR power equipment. They are off of their 44'' pull behind brush cutter model. It will give it a total cut path of 44''. They mount with 3/4'' bolts. Should be plenty enough for my cutter.
 

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For what it's worth: Not as heavy duty ( witch would be better ), but I made a quick one years ago on a White mower 44" deck. It had twin blades, and a timed belt. It would either bend blades/spindles
or brake belts, on even soft ground. I ended up 1/4' plate and found these swisher blades 5059 – Blade - 17.5 cut them dead center, used the smaller holes with 3/8" bolts. Not only eliminated the brake/bending, but also able to mow brush of smaller size.............Curt
121169
 

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Very nice build 👍👍, I can't wait to see it in action.
If it all works out you are going to have lots of requests to build more.🤣
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If this works would you be interested in building one to sell? Just wanted to let you know others would be interested. I would be for sure. Nice build 👍 and thanks for sharing. Bob
Thanks!
As much as I would like to make a few of these and sell to others (just because its so hard to find a used hydracutter). Just the liability and dangerous aspect or operator error and such when using this, is way more then it's worth for me to accept money to sell these. After all, in the end I'll be responsible for anything that happens. That alone is enough to steer me away. Once I do the first test (its still in the painting stage right now) and it works. I will be more then happy to help with any questions and such if anyone would like to build their own one of these.
 

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And aside from the liability, even at a modest wage, what would you have in one with materials and labor?
 

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I understand that especially the way things are nowadays. If everything goes well I would like to know all about it. Maybe you could gather all the details and E-mail them to me so I can build one. Thank you for letting me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
And aside from the liability, even at a modest wage, what would you have in one with materials and labor?
I still have to total everything up to get an exact price. The hydraulic motor was the most expensive, Around $320.00. I got lucky and found most of the steel I needed to build that someone was selling local and at very good prices. So I didn't pay steel yard prices on the steel. I'm close to $800.00 in supplies. But, I built it stronger and to my own liking (using 1/4'' plate etc..) You could under build it for slightly cheaper. I was tired of waiting for a ''used'' hydra cutter to come up, so I decided to just build one. It seems like when they do come up, they are very far away and not cheap. ($1,000 +). My end goal was not to go over $1,000 in material cost. I'm pretty confidant it will work just fine, as I pretty much copied the motor/belt drive setup design from the original. We will see though, I'm waiting for warmer weather so I can get some paint on it. ( Hopefully won't be to much long)
 
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