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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I spent today working on the tractor and got a lot done. My eBay rockshaft showed up this week so I got it installed and reconnected the brake linkage, parking brake mechanism, and return springs.

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I had a good spare control valve linkage for the raise/lower side to replace the slopped out ball/socket and worn rod. I installed the upgrade linkage on the travel side with a new top bushing and adjusted it for neutral and full forward/reverse. Tightening up these linkages made a huge difference and it's starting to feel like a new tractor.

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My brother got the 3-point plate marked out and cut out the cracked center section with the plasma cutter. He straightened the top link and lift arm brackets, gouged out the welds for the hitch and cylinder bracket, removed them, and ground all the edges down. I didn't get any pics with the edges cleaned up.

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I was going to fab a new top bracket from angle stock and mill the slots in it to keep it cheap but the new bracket was only $25 so I splurged. We have enough fab work to do on this thing.

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The PO welded the front axle pin to the frame so I spent the rest of the night breaking those welds, pounding out the pin, and dropping the axle to prep for the upgrade solid axle pin, new tie rod ends, new wheel bearings, and the spindle needle bearing upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I had a few hours after work to take the axle apart and clean up the spindles, spindle bores, and axle pin bore. I reassembled it with the PMPS needle bearing parts, new wheel bearings, and new tie rod ends. I ground off all the dingleberry welds on the frame that were holding the original pin in and put the axle back in place with the new solid pin.

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The 1/4" plate is in for the 3-point and ready for the fireworks.

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I need some help with this one. I put the steering rod on the sector gear and tried adjusting it's length for proper center (arrow on the sector gear meshing with the steering shaft gear with wheels straight ahead). I can get the sector centered but it turns a lot tighter in one direction than the other. I can adjust the steering rod to find a compromise where it turns equally in both directions but center goes about 5 teeth off, the sector gear runs out of teeth in one direction, then runs out of pull in the other direction (steering rod is almost inline with the sector gear shaft) resulting in a smaller turning radius in both directions.

I found another steering rod in the box of spare parts the PO gave me and I compared the two. The spare rod is about 1/2" shorter. I'm not sure if that 1/2" will make the difference that I need but I'm going to try it tomorrow.

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Here's another thing I found. The spindles don't have the pointy stops like my other 4016 but have these blocks welded to them that are drilled and tapped for 5/16" bolts with jam juts for adjustable stops (bolts removed in the pics). Were these ever standard on an Ingersoll machine? The spindles also seem to have a lot of positive camber built into them that I haven't seen on other Ingersolls.

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I'm either working with a conglomeration of non-standard parts for this machine or someone Frankensteined something that's not totally obvious to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Got my steering issues cleared up today. Turns out the longer sreering rod that was on the tractor was fine and I just needed to spend more time messing with it. I still don't know what's up with the blocks welded to the spindles but I'm going to thread the bolts back into them so there is some form of mechanical stop to protect the steering gears

I put the footboards and remaining sheetmetal back on the tractor and messed with the placement of the diverter valve some more. In doing so, I found the hydraulic lines on this tractor are -5 so the fittings I bought were a waste - that's what I get for taking someone's word for it. On a better note, I'm liking the diverter valve on the RH fender next to the seat. It looked cool on the tower but I would have to reach pretty far forward and down to grab the handle and that would get old. Mounting it on the fender offers easy access with the handle next to your leg and generous space to run the hoses without drilling any holes.

My brother got the 3-point repair plate welded in and ran the welder out of wire before he could stick the tow hitch and cylinder bracket to it. We will resume Friday after buying some wire. My dude makes some sexy welds 🙌🏻

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
My brother the fab master knocked out the 3-point and we got it bolted back in place with some new bolts and heavy washers. I need some new 5/8" pins for the lift arms and a 1/2" pin for the lift cylinder then it's done.

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I mounted the diverter valve to the fender, took all my hose measurements, and I'll be picking up the hoses tomorrow. As I said in my previous post, the -4 JIC fittings I bought were not correct. From what I can gather, the lift circuit hose on these tractors is -4 but the fittings are -5 JIC which is not a common size for adapter fittings to the -8 ORB / STOR ports on the diverter valve. Those fittings should arrive Wed.

I love having the diverter valve on the fender. The handle is within reach, comfortable to operate, and doesn't interfere with my leg.

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That mounting looks like it would give you the option to shorten the lever if you find it getting caught in your clothing or poking you in the a$$ when getting on or off the tractor. Thumb up here.
Yes the handle rod has a setscrew holding it in place and the stops are the same on the other side of the spool so you can push it through as far as you want without cutting the rod. Nice little bonus feature I didn't know about when I decided on this valve!
 

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I need some help with this one. I put the steering rod on the sector gear and tried adjusting it's length for proper center (arrow on the sector gear meshing with the steering shaft gear with wheels straight ahead). I can get the sector centered but it turns a lot tighter in one direction than the other. I can adjust the steering rod to find a compromise where it turns equally in both directions but center goes about 5 teeth off, the sector gear runs out of teeth in one direction, then runs out of pull in the other direction (steering rod is almost inline with the sector gear shaft) resulting in a smaller turning radius in both directions.

I found another steering rod in the box of spare parts the PO gave me and I compared the two. The spare rod is about 1/2" shorter. I'm not sure if that 1/2" will make the difference that I need but I'm going to try it tomorrow.

View attachment 127917

Here's another thing I found. The spindles don't have the pointy stops like my other 4016 but have these blocks welded to them that are drilled and tapped for 5/16" bolts with jam juts for adjustable stops (bolts removed in the pics). Were these ever standard on an Ingersoll machine? The spindles also seem to have a lot of positive camber built into them that I haven't seen on other Ingersolls.

View attachment 127919

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I'm either working with a conglomeration of non-standard parts for this machine or someone Frankensteined something that's not totally obvious to me.
There was never additional positive camber built into the axle/spindles, my guess is that the PO ran into plenty of stationary objects. The threaded blocks were used on later production tractors with bolts and jam nuts as you mention to provide adjustable steering stops. All so that the turning radius could be limited in order to meet safety requirements without making things permanent. Issue was tip over when turning to full lock in reverse, noting the high range speed (in reverse) that our tractors are capable of. Have to protect the idiots, lol.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
There was never additional positive camber built into the axle/spindles, my guess is that the PO ran into plenty of stationary objects. The threaded blocks were used on later production tractors with bolts and jam nuts as you mention to provide adjustable steering stops. All so that the turning radius could be limited in order to meet safety requirements without making things permanent. Issue was tip over when turning to full lock in reverse, noting the high range speed (in reverse) that our tractors are capable of. Have to protect the idiots, lol.

Bob
Thanks for sharing this info Bob! I'm glad that the threaded stops aren't a homemade modification. The PO said he broke the original tractor's frame at one point and swapped a lot of his parts to a different tractor with a good frame. I wonder if his original tractor was an older model and he swapped his front axle to the newer machine. Either way I'll feel better about putting the stop bolts back in. Might save me while trying Tokyo drift stunts 🤪

As you can see in the pic below with his tractor on the left and mine on the right, the camber is definitely different and the positive cambered spindles on his tractor seem to match eachother too perfectly to have been bent from clobbering things but anything is possible with this machine as I'm finding out.

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Today I got the rear lights working. Wiring to both tail lights was cut off at the gas tank so I spliced some new wires, added grounds, and put LED 194 bulbs in the housings. The old chrome dome work lamp looked pretty cool and it was already installed so I de-cobbled the wiring to the socket and put an LED 1156 bulb in it. It's not as bright as the LED pod I was going to use but the glass lens throws the light out well enough to leave it alone.

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Next on the agenda for lights, I'm going to use the same LED units I used in my headlight writeup I did on my other tractor a few years ago. Despite being $25 on Amazon, they are bright as hell and have held up well to hot summer nights cutting my grass late and blowing snow below zero.

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I primed the 3-point parts and my diverter valve and painted everything. I used Allis orange, which sucks, but it got the job done. When this tractor earns it's keep in the family after all this work I'm doing on it, it will see some real body work and paint down the road.

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I also picked up my five hydraulic hoses today for the paltry sum of $335 😵
 
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