[Mr onetwo]

I have another "dumb" question. I am fixing up a 446 for a friend of mine and the attached fuel pump on the marvel-schebler carb has bit the dust.I can get a Napa 610-1052 for $48 .It is a repackaged Facet that pumps up to 2/3.5 psi. Can I put the outlet of this pump right into the fuel inlet of the old pump or do I have to do something else.I have found vague references to a block-off plate elsewhere, but no info.Also, where should a pump of this type be wired in...I know it should be as close to the tank as possible.Thanks :thumbsup: https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Cata ... 50320&An=0

 

[Snotrocket]

Here's my fuel pump story.

My original pump that's bolted to the carb was toast when I bought my 446. I bought an electric one (2-3psi) at NAPA for $25. It's a small cylinder about half the diameter of a soda can.
I mounted it against what I would call the firewall that sits in front of the battery and wired it into my ignition switch.

Ever since I hooked it up there several people prodded me to mount it underneath the tractor closer to the fuel tank as it is supposed to be a push style pump. About 2 weeks ago I did just that and it hasn't worked nearly as well since. When I had it mounted in the engine bay before I would simply turn the key on for 1 second and turn it over and it would fire right up immediately. Ever since I moved it underneath the tractor I have to leave the key on for a minute or two for gas to reach the carb. I used all new fuel line and clamped everything. At some point I'm putting it back under the hood because it worked far better in its original location.

I ran my line right into the original port on the original fuel pump. I took the original one apart and took out the small rubber bladders inside it so fuel could flow through it freely.

If you need the parts to rebuild the original it comes as part of the carb rebuild kit available from Brian Hildreth for around $50.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Thanks for the info....my 648 has one of those pumps ,its on top of the motor and everything works great.What did you you do with the 2 ports left on the pump?The top barb on the side of the carb has nothing hooked to it...open to the atmosphere...is this right?I'm going to the Rockland NAPA in the morning to get the pump. :thumbup:

 

[Snotrocket]

I think only one of them actually passes through the pump. The other one doesn't have a hole all the way through it.


I wish I was going to be home in the morning so we could chat a bit!!

 

[Mr onetwo]

I think only one of them actually passes through the pump. The other one doesn't have a hole all the way through it.

I wish I was going to be home in the morning so we could chat a bit!!

Damn!!! :facepalm:

 

[Snotrocket]

I have an appointment from 9-12. :thumbdown:

 

[mikebramel]

My Onan with the Mikuni Briggs 808656 starts instantly for $30

 

[Mr onetwo]

Well, before going to pick up that electric pump I thought I would make absolutely sure the problem wasn't something else.Compression test is 100 PSI Left/93 PSI Right. Replaced fuel hose, filter and vac line.Tractor had wrong plugs(H10C !!!) put in RH18Y gapped to .025. Tractor now runs, but only with choke closed completely. Exhaust is "crackly" if that makes sense.As soon as you open choke more than 10% engine dies with single strong backfire.Fuel filter remains full at all times. I'm thinking fuel starvation because of weak pump.Any thoughts? :mrgreen: Strange thing,before road trip to my house,tractor started right up and ran fine!?#*

 

[Hydriv]

How about really bad air leak?

Check manifold to block gaskets as well as the joint area in the two-piece manifold.

 

[Mr onetwo]

That's a great point...I remember reading somewhere about splitting and resealing that manifold! :thumbsup: Thanks

 

[Mr onetwo]

How about really bad air leak?

Check manifold to block gaskets as well as the joint area in the two-piece manifold.

After taking everything apart....it was a really bad leak in the joint between manifold halves. I split the halves,drilled out the factory studs and resealed with Yamabond 4. You could see 3 places where the old RTV was leaking....about 4" total.Rebuilt carb with Gary's Place kit and brass float.Tractor will be back together this weekend and I will update the situation. :thumbsup: