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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got my recently acquired Case 646 running, the bananna plate replaced, fabricated a missing steering wheel, etc. Now I'm ready to put the davis backhoe back on it. The project came missing the two diagnol bars that run from the top pins on the backhoe down to the location under the foot rests. I'm guessing that this is 1"x2" bar stock but I'd like to verify before I buy some and I'd love to get the center to center hole spacing of a factory bar so I can fabricate them correctly.

Thanks in advance for whatever info someone can provide.

--Ken
 

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I recently got my recently acquired Case 646 running, the bananna plate replaced, fabricated a missing steering wheel, etc. Now I'm ready to put the davis backhoe back on it. The project came missing the two diagnol bars that run from the top pins on the backhoe down to the location under the foot rests. I'm guessing that this is 1"x2" bar stock but I'd like to verify before I buy some and I'd love to get the center to center hole spacing of a factory bar so I can fabricate them correctly.

Thanks in advance for whatever info someone can provide.

--Ken
Hi Ken, My response is not directly on point for your question - however I thought I would reach out. I repowered and restored a 646 (not the BH but I am trying to make it work bc I want a backhoe). I bought a Davis D-100 and had it shipped to me. I need the mounting brackets (all of them) and weights and was wondering if you might have any ideas on where I could acquire same. Sounds like you are a bit ahead of me on your restoration project! Best of luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No idea on where to acquire but I'd be glad to take pictures and measurements of how mine mounts as long as I'm not taking the front counterweight off LOL. I think that weighs about 500 lbs and it does not look easy to take on or off.

--ken
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Ken my 644 didn't have the diagonal bars on the hoe either. I just raised it up as far as it would go and took a center to center measurement. It was 25" on my Davis. I made the bars out of 2.5" wide 3/8" thick steel bars. Drilled two 1 1/8" holes in them and they worked fine. My how cylinder slowly lowers as it sets not in use. So the bars come in handy to hold it up. I hope this helps.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ken my 644 didn't have the diagonal bars on the hoe either. I just raised it up as far as it would go and took a center to center measurement. It was 25" on my Davis. I made the bars out of 2.5" wide 3/8" thick steel bars. Drilled two 1 1/8" holes in them and they worked fine. My how cylinder slowly lowers as it sets not in use. So the bars come in handy to hold it up. I hope this helps.

Keep the Peace
Harry
Thats good to know. The one's I'm replacing are the ones that go from under the foot rests up to the top pins on the loader to tractor mount though. I have 2 pieces of 2"x1" bar stock. I think the top holes are 1" (1 1/8" might be perfect to give it a little slop) and the bottom holes under the foot rests are smaller I know. I'm going to measure as best I can those.
 

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No idea on where to acquire but I'd be glad to take pictures and measurements of how mine mounts as long as I'm not taking the front counterweight off LOL. I think that weighs about 500 lbs and it does not look easy to take on or off.
--ken
The front weight is right at 500# for the later models with the cast piece. The earlier style of bolted plates I believe is a touch lighter.
Taking them on and off actually isn't bad if the loader is running. I loop a sling under the weight (bolted style in my case), and fasten it over the cross bar on the boom. Playing with the length can get you to have a straight, or straight enough pull. Take the weight with the loader, and then remove the two pins in the front of the sub frame under the engine. Lower the weight to the ground. Then you can manage taking the rear pins out with some blocking to protect your fingers. This of course assumes you have already dropped the hoe... Install is simply the reverse of removal. Once you do it a time or two, it becomes a pretty quick process. It makes working on everything else on the tractor much easier without the subframe in place.

Can't help with the diagonal brace measurements as I'm 100 miles from mine currently.
 

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Hi Ken, My response is not directly on point for your question - however I thought I would reach out. I repowered and restored a 646 (not the BH but I am trying to make it work bc I want a backhoe). I bought a Davis D-100 and had it shipped to me. I need the mounting brackets (all of them) and weights and was wondering if you might have any ideas on where I could acquire same. Sounds like you are a bit ahead of me on your restoration project! Best of luck!!
None of the mounting brackets, or subframe pieces are terribly complex to make, assuming you can weld, and work with some heavier steel bar. I want to say the bars are 1/2" thick. Since you have nothing to start with, plan to make it like the earlier style with a bunch of plates bolted together to form the front weight.

It seems we have seen an awful lot of 600 series that have lost their hoes over time. Finding someone with that situation, that isn't chasing after a hoe themselves, would be a good source for some of the brackets.

You also should keep in mind the hoes have reinforced rears, and different axles with flotation tires, because that D-100 is a lot of weight hanging off the back side...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Given some time I'll take some pictures of my subframe and make some measurements.
 
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