I suggest you refer to the wiring diagram in your parts or operators manual to check the connections. If you don't have a manual there should be one in the tech section.
Need some advice Case 195
Okay I have a 1968 cae 195 Does anyone know if the voltage regulator should have fire going to it all the time. With the battery hooked up and key switch off if I put a test light on the two bottom terminals on the regulator it light ups dont understand it eventually it will kill batttery heres some thing really strange the top terminal is for the lights if the negative side of battery is hooked up it has no fire but if I unhook neg side leaving positive on then it lights up anyone have any suggestions whats going on.
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Sorry for the delay in answering, but I wanted to check my 195 before answering. Have you looked at the wiring diagram? My 195 has three connections on one side of the regulator. I have a key switch and and push to start switch on mine.The Manual in the Parts section has a wiring diagram and it lists wire colors. If the wiring is in the right place I would check to see if the key switch is hot with the key on and off. That would be a good place to start.
When I see a post like this, my first questions are these.
Is this 195 new to you?
If it is not new to you, did the electrical system work properly for you previously?
If so, did you make any changes to it in any way?
All too often, either current owners or previous owners install electrical components that do not come from the dealer. They are under the belief that the item they just installed is the same as original but it is not. That's when the heartaches begin. Wrong key switches, starter solenoids and regulators are abundant out there in the big world but wrong is wrong and wrong won't work.
In order to help you, we need those questions answered or we all end up spinning our wheels here. :thumbsup:
Is this 195 new to you?
If it is not new to you, did the electrical system work properly for you previously?
If so, did you make any changes to it in any way?
All too often, either current owners or previous owners install electrical components that do not come from the dealer. They are under the belief that the item they just installed is the same as original but it is not. That's when the heartaches begin. Wrong key switches, starter solenoids and regulators are abundant out there in the big world but wrong is wrong and wrong won't work.
In order to help you, we need those questions answered or we all end up spinning our wheels here. :thumbsup:
mastifflawyer said:Sorry for the delay in answering, but I wanted to check my 195 before answering. Have you looked at the wiring diagram? My 195 has three connections on one side of the regulator. I have a key switch and and push to start switch on mine.The Manual in the Parts section has a wiring diagram and it lists wire colors. If the wiring is in the right place I would check to see if the key switch is hot with the key on and off. That would be a good place to start.[/quote
Yes I hooked all wires up just like the manual says the key switch is hot in the on position and the off position. mine also has the the push starter switch. I did replace the starter swich and regulator also the key switch.
Where did you buy the new ignition switch, regulator and starter switch from? Was it Brian Hildreth or some other authorized Ingersoll dealer?
If you have the CORRECT voltage regulator, it will have three terminals on one side and one terminal underneath it.
In order for a regulator to function, it MUST be grounded to the tractor frame.
If your tractor is wired correctly, then you will have the heavy lead from the battery Positive terminal going directly to the UPPER terminal on the START pushbutton switch. A 12 gauge wire will be on that same upper START terminal and it will go the middle terminal on the regulator. Another 12 gauge wire will join the middle terminal of the regulator to one of the terminals on the key switch.
Therefore, if you have a TEST LIGHT that has a probe attached to a handle that will light up when power is applied and has a two foot long lead with an alligator clip on the end, then it would be perfectly normal to find power on the terminal marked BAT and the terminal marked L on the regulator. The 3rd terminal in that line up is marked F for FIELD and it goes directly to the FIELD terminal on the Start/Gen.
It would not be normal to find power on BOTH terminals of the key-switch UNLESS....the key is turned to ON. If the key is on the OFF position, then you should see power only on the terminal that comes from the regulator because the OTHER terminal on the key-switch is supposed to be connected to the + terminal on the ignition coil.
Now... let's go back to the START switch. The BOTTOM terminal on that switch should have a heavy gauge wire attached to it and going to the A or ARMATURE terminal on the Start/Gen. You should also have a 12 gauge wire attached to that same BOTTOM terminal on the START switch that connects to terminal on the UNDERSIDE of the regulator and another wire then goes from that same regulator terminal to the red GEN light. The other wire belonging to the red GEN light goes to the terminal on the KEY-SWITCH that also feeds the coil.
If you bought the correct regulator, key-switch and start switch and they are all functioning correctly, then all you need to do is follow the above wiring instructions to get everything connected properly. The only thing I did not mention is the LIGHTING circuit because it has nothing to do with starting the engine or recharging the battery. However, the lighting circuit is simple. Hook one wire between the L terminal on the regulator and one terminal on the light switch. The other terminal on the light switch goes directly to the two headlamps and as long as those lamps are grounded properly with good seal beams installed, the headlamps should light up when you pull the headlamp switch.
Your battery must be grounded to a clean spot on the engine. You can use one of the bolts that holds the hydraulic pump mount to the engine block.
In our TECH Library we have the Parts Manual section and there is a separate listing for the 100 Series tractors. Page 50 of the last PDF on that list of manuals, displays the wiring pictorial for your 195. If you want to find the problem, then you MUST trace all of your wiring so that it matches that diagram completely. You must also have a fully charged and TESTED battery under the hood. Don't assume anything. Even brand new batteries can fail in one way or the other and cause you all kinds of grief because you thought all along that it was good.
Do not get frustrated. You have to attack this in a methodical manner to narrow down what the real problem is.
If you have the CORRECT voltage regulator, it will have three terminals on one side and one terminal underneath it.
In order for a regulator to function, it MUST be grounded to the tractor frame.
If your tractor is wired correctly, then you will have the heavy lead from the battery Positive terminal going directly to the UPPER terminal on the START pushbutton switch. A 12 gauge wire will be on that same upper START terminal and it will go the middle terminal on the regulator. Another 12 gauge wire will join the middle terminal of the regulator to one of the terminals on the key switch.
Therefore, if you have a TEST LIGHT that has a probe attached to a handle that will light up when power is applied and has a two foot long lead with an alligator clip on the end, then it would be perfectly normal to find power on the terminal marked BAT and the terminal marked L on the regulator. The 3rd terminal in that line up is marked F for FIELD and it goes directly to the FIELD terminal on the Start/Gen.
It would not be normal to find power on BOTH terminals of the key-switch UNLESS....the key is turned to ON. If the key is on the OFF position, then you should see power only on the terminal that comes from the regulator because the OTHER terminal on the key-switch is supposed to be connected to the + terminal on the ignition coil.
Now... let's go back to the START switch. The BOTTOM terminal on that switch should have a heavy gauge wire attached to it and going to the A or ARMATURE terminal on the Start/Gen. You should also have a 12 gauge wire attached to that same BOTTOM terminal on the START switch that connects to terminal on the UNDERSIDE of the regulator and another wire then goes from that same regulator terminal to the red GEN light. The other wire belonging to the red GEN light goes to the terminal on the KEY-SWITCH that also feeds the coil.
If you bought the correct regulator, key-switch and start switch and they are all functioning correctly, then all you need to do is follow the above wiring instructions to get everything connected properly. The only thing I did not mention is the LIGHTING circuit because it has nothing to do with starting the engine or recharging the battery. However, the lighting circuit is simple. Hook one wire between the L terminal on the regulator and one terminal on the light switch. The other terminal on the light switch goes directly to the two headlamps and as long as those lamps are grounded properly with good seal beams installed, the headlamps should light up when you pull the headlamp switch.
Your battery must be grounded to a clean spot on the engine. You can use one of the bolts that holds the hydraulic pump mount to the engine block.
In our TECH Library we have the Parts Manual section and there is a separate listing for the 100 Series tractors. Page 50 of the last PDF on that list of manuals, displays the wiring pictorial for your 195. If you want to find the problem, then you MUST trace all of your wiring so that it matches that diagram completely. You must also have a fully charged and TESTED battery under the hood. Don't assume anything. Even brand new batteries can fail in one way or the other and cause you all kinds of grief because you thought all along that it was good.
Do not get frustrated. You have to attack this in a methodical manner to narrow down what the real problem is.
The regulator needs to be part number 1118988 to match start-generator nun other work this 4 terminal one under bottom. Purchasing a like regulator will not work.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=UTF-8 ... or+1118988
This regulator is list in one parts books for you tractor.
Link is just for general information on 1118988 delco remy
http://search.yahoo.com/search?ei=UTF-8 ... or+1118988
This regulator is list in one parts books for you tractor.
Link is just for general information on 1118988 delco remy
Well good news I followed your advice above step by step and found my problem in the manual it shows the small wire coming from starter gen. goes on bottom of terminal on regulator which I guess the old one did which is marked F for field like you said when actually on the new regulator the F is at the top and L is at bottom after seeing this dum mistake I made and switched the wires everything is working find. I was pulling my hair trying to figure this thing out but thanks to you and your detailed instructions I found my mistake Thanks for all your help and advice.Hydriv said:Where did you buy the new ignition switch, regulator and starter switch from? Was it Brian Hildreth or some other authorized Ingersoll dealer?
If you have the CORRECT voltage regulator, it will have three terminals on one side and one terminal underneath it.
In order for a regulator to function, it MUST be grounded to the tractor frame.
If your tractor is wired correctly, then you will have the heavy lead from the battery Positive terminal going directly to the UPPER terminal on the START pushbutton switch. A 12 gauge wire will be on that same upper START terminal and it will go the middle terminal on the regulator. Another 12 gauge wire will join the middle terminal of the regulator to one of the terminals on the key switch.
Therefore, if you have a TEST LIGHT that has a probe attached to a handle that will light up when power is applied and has a two foot long lead with an alligator clip on the end, then it would be perfectly normal to find power on the terminal marked BAT and the terminal marked L on the regulator. The 3rd terminal in that line up is marked F for FIELD and it goes directly to the FIELD terminal on the Start/Gen.
It would not be normal to find power on BOTH terminals of the key-switch UNLESS....the key is turned to ON. If the key is on the OFF position, then you should see power only on the terminal that comes from the regulator because the OTHER terminal on the key-switch is supposed to be connected to the + terminal on the ignition coil.
Now... let's go back to the START switch. The BOTTOM terminal on that switch should have a heavy gauge wire attached to it and going to the A or ARMATURE terminal on the Start/Gen. You should also have a 12 gauge wire attached to that same BOTTOM terminal on the START switch that connects to terminal on the UNDERSIDE of the regulator and another wire then goes from that same regulator terminal to the red GEN light. The other wire belonging to the red GEN light goes to the terminal on the KEY-SWITCH that also feeds the coil.
If you bought the correct regulator, key-switch and start switch and they are all functioning correctly, then all you need to do is follow the above wiring instructions to get everything connected properly. The only thing I did not mention is the LIGHTING circuit because it has nothing to do with starting the engine or recharging the battery. However, the lighting circuit is simple. Hook one wire between the L terminal on the regulator and one terminal on the light switch. The other terminal on the light switch goes directly to the two headlamps and as long as those lamps are grounded properly with good seal beams installed, the headlamps should light up when you pull the headlamp switch.
Your battery must be grounded to a clean spot on the engine. You can use one of the bolts that holds the hydraulic pump mount to the engine block.
In our TECH Library we have the Parts Manual section and there is a separate listing for the 100 Series tractors. Page 50 of the last PDF on that list of manuals, displays the wiring pictorial for your 195. If you want to find the problem, then you MUST trace all of your wiring so that it matches that diagram completely. You must also have a fully charged and TESTED battery under the hood. Don't assume anything. Even brand new batteries can fail in one way or the other and cause you all kinds of grief because you thought all along that it was good.
Do not get frustrated. You have to attack this in a methodical manner to narrow down what the real problem is.
Now...... you can go back to MTF and tell them that your tractor problem is finally cured, thanks to the forum where Colonel Klink hangs out. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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