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Hi to everybody, Bob here. I'm new to Case tractors, just got a 1981 446. My tractor has stickers from Oakland Farm Supply, Oakland, IL, but I bought it in Kentucky. It's in pretty good shape overall but has some deferred maintenance items. I'm pretty sure no major component has ever been serviced, because the level of crud buildup is incredible!

I've Gunked and pressure washed a couple of times now just trying to get the major accretions removed. Previous owner had disassembled the PTO and tried to reassemble it with an extra hex nut thrown in for good measure. I have that back together and it seems to be working now.

Next move is to un-cobble the wiring (one of my biggest pet peeves!). PO had replaced a broken ignition switch with an added toggle and a key switch that fit the hole but was nowhere close to the original switch functions. I've bought a correct replacement and am now digging into the wiring to get it back to original schematic.

I got a mower deck with the tractor and have a blade coming via truck freight in a couple of days. We have little snow in Nashville, but my driveway is a half mile long - shoveling after two snows last year made me really covet a scraper blade!

First question for the experts on here: I'm trying to get the hydraulic tank out so I can access the wiring beneath it. Do I need to unbolt the engine and slide it forward to access this very tight area? I have the tower rear access cover off, but access is pretty much impossible right now.

Thanks in advance for all the good information I know I'll get on this forum. Looking forward to using this tractor for many years to come!
Bob in Nashville
 

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BobMcKeown said:
Hi to everybody, Bob here. I'm new to Case tractors, just got a 1981 446. My tractor has stickers from Oakland Farm Supply, Oakland, IL, but I bought it in Kentucky. It's in pretty good shape overall but has some deferred maintenance items. I'm pretty sure no major component has ever been serviced, because the level of crud buildup is incredible!

I've Gunked and pressure washed a couple of times now just trying to get the major accretions removed. Previous owner had disassembled the PTO and tried to reassemble it with an extra hex nut thrown in for good measure. I have that back together and it seems to be working now.

Next move is to un-cobble the wiring (one of my biggest pet peeves!). PO had replaced a broken ignition switch with an added toggle and a key switch that fit the hole but was nowhere close to the original switch functions. I've bought a correct replacement and am now digging into the wiring to get it back to original schematic.

I got a mower deck with the tractor and have a blade coming via truck freight in a couple of days. We have little snow in Nashville, but my driveway is a half mile long - shoveling after two snows last year made me really covet a scraper blade!

First question for the experts on here: I'm trying to get the hydraulic tank out so I can access the wiring beneath it. Do I need to unbolt the engine and slide it forward to access this very tight area? I have the tower rear access cover off, but access is pretty much impossible right now.

Thanks in advance for all the good information I know I'll get on this forum. Looking forward to using this tractor for many years to come!
Bob in Nashville
Welcome Bob.

Because this forum is strictly for introductions, I am going to move it to the main forum for better exposure. I will leave a "shadow thread" in place for the moment but once you respond, one of the Mods will delete the shadow thread from the Introductions section.

No problem... it happens all the time. Newbies need some time to figure things out.

Now let's look at your questions.

For all the time and effort that is involved, I think you would be well advised to remove the engine from the tractor. Unbolt the pump from the pump mount (2 bolts) and the pump will then separate thanks to the coupler. Doing this will allow you to install a new coupler NOW before the old one disintegrates at an inconvenient moment and destroys both coupler halves.

If you purchase a OEM switch from your local Case or Ingersoll dealer, then you have the right one and it will have the headlamp position on it.

With the engine removed, life will be much simpler. Removing the oil tank is much easier. Cleaning out the balance of the gunk is easier. Working out all the wiring issues is far less complicated with the engine gone. On top of that, you may discover some Voodoo with the neutral safety switch, the PTO safety switch, the PTO engagement lever, the parking brake springs and the steering. All of this will be exposed. You will be able to give the engine a more thorough cleaning and you can also check the rubber pucks that are supposed to be under the frame at each engine bolt. If you have broken mounting ears, you will find out now. If your mounting bolts are worn out, that will be apparent as will any damage to the frame where the engine bolts up.

As for the engine, removing all the tins, cleaning all the fins, setting the valve lash, setting the points, decarbonizing the cylinder heads, pistons and valves should also be done. Look for any signs of domestication by meese in the flywheel area. If you see something suspicious then removing the flywheel may be in order.

Check out our Tech Library for Parts and Op Manuals that are correct for you model and PIN. A lot of common questions are answered in the FAQ's in the Tech section. Please check that out too.

Enjoy the site. :thumbsup:
 

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Bob: Welcome to the site, we're glad you joined! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: You've come to the right place. Just to add, be sure to visit History on the Home Page. Also up top are FAQs on how to use the many features on the site. Sounds like a good plan getting a blade for the half mile driveway. :thumbup: Look forward to talking on site. :thumbsup: :usa:
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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A little tip that helps me. When removing the oil tank and pump, I leave the hose from the tank to the pump hooked up and take the pump, tank, and pump mount out as a unit. Much easier than trying to get the hose clamp tight on the pump when doing these separately. You can get to the wiring if you remove the heat shield and slide the oil tank forward, but you will have much more access for cleaning if you remove engine. Very easy to pull engine on these tractors anyway. Welcome and good luck.
Terry
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies, everybody. I'll be pulling the engine shortly. With what I've seen so far, I won't be surprised at what else I find out of whack in there. I think the previous owner had little in the way of maintenance skills, but lots of time and enthusiasm.

mikebramel, all of the wiring behind the dash is suspect. There seem to be no starter interlocks, and the ammeter is bypassed. It's against my nature to leave stuff that way. Do any suppliers sell complete wiring harnesses for these tractors? That might actually be my best bet.

On an unrelated note, has anyone fitted a filter to the hydraulic system? Most later tractors use them, and it seems like good insurance.

Bob in Nashville
 

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Brian will likely chime in here but I don't believe that there is a true OEM harness for your tractor available any longer. Making up a new harness is not all that difficult. Most of the wiring is 16 gauge. Having the correct colours is nice because it makes tracing the wire much easier later on when everything is back in place. Crimp connectors should be soldered in place and then heat shrink tubing applied.

Hydraulic filters have been installed by some members but due to lack of available space, this is not an easy task. You must plumb them into the line that runs from the travel control OUT port and the oil cooler. The filter must be mounted on the left side of the tractor so that it does not interfere with the lift arms used on snowcasters and utility blades. You cannot use anything small because the housing and filter must be capable of flowing 15 GPM. If you used something that only flowed 10 GPM when new, then it would begin to lose flow quickly as it started to filter out contaminants. Some filter housings have a pressure gauge on them that will tell you when the filter is creating back pressure. Changing the hydraulic oil every 500 hours or annually is what the OP Manual calls for. This seems to work for most people but I can certainly understand your desire for a filter.
 

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You can create a temporary filter that can be attached to the rear PTO valve using the quick couplers normally found on these tractors. HOWEVER... you cannot so much as move this tractor one inch or operate the hydraulic lift. The second you do that, the system pressure will rise rapidly to a level far beyond the burst rating of the filter canister or the gasket resulting in oil being spewed everywhere. If this is the chosen solution, then the tractor needs to be parked in a well-ventilated area and diligently watched to make sure no one tries to use it. Allowing it to run for about 30 minutes at half throttle would mean you are putting the entire contents of the hydraulic system (except for what is in the mid-lift cylinder, the PTO cylinder and the drive motor) through the filter about 25 times. Special care must be taken to ensure that the fluid is going through the filter in the correct direction EVERY TIME.

CAUTION must rule the day. Safety is Job 1 .......... especially when hydraulics are involved.
 

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Hi Bob,
Hydriv gave you some pretty good advice there. I would second the notion to download the correct operators and parts manual for your '81 446. Look at the pin number below the dash and use it as reference when selecting your manual. If you cannot find the proper manual here then some members can point you in the right direction. There is a Yahoo group for Case/Colt/Ingersoll that has a good selection of manuals.
What do you have for an engine in that thing? If you have the Onan in that '81 then there is also an Onan engines Yahoo group with plenty of info and knowledgeable members there. A guy named Boomer frequents this and other boards, he sells hard to find Onan parts and offers excellent advice.
I don't think you have a very good chance of finding a complete wiring harness for a tractor as old as yours. If you find your correct manual then it will have an easy to understand wiring diagram that you can refer to. If the previous owner of your tractor bypassed the ammeter (as the previous owner of my 446 did) then it is possible that your tractor is not charging correctly. But that would depend on what engine and charging system you have in there.

Best of luck and welcome to the forum!

Brendon
 

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A true wiring schematic is found in the Operator's Manual because it shows the colours for each of the wires. The diagram in the Parts Manual is a pictorial and the wiring colours are often not shown in totality. If your ammeter was bypassed, then most likely it no longer works and must be replaced. Bob or Brian can sell you a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got a parts manual with my tractor. Since there aren't many original wires left to trace, I can just recreate the original schematic with all new wires and make up my own color code!

The ammeter shows about 1-2 ohms resistance across it, so it may be functional. At least it will pass current and not keep the charging system from working. I really think previous owner just connected wires until the ignition worked. (sigh)

Got my Lovejoy coupling spider replacement today. Funny, you'd think that might be a difficult thing to find, but my local Grainger branch had it in stock (P/N 1X406, $14). What I haven't found is replacement hose for the connections to the cooler. Anybody have a good source for this? NAPA had 3000psi real hydraulic hose. CarQuest had power steering hose that looked promising, but the kids working there couldn't figure out how much to charge for it (really!). Maybe Tractor Supply?

We got a dusting of snow in Nashville today. If my tractor were running, I could put the blade on and pretend to shove some out of the way!

Bob in Nashville
 

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Cooler hose is low pressure hydraulic line. Any decent hydraulic supply shop that sells fittings, pumps, motors, valves and so forth should have oil resistant hose in stock that is rated for at least 300 PSI working pressure. Even your NAPA dealer should have had that. Perhaps they misunderstood you. Tractor Supply should carry it.

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SA ... 4-hose.htm
 

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BobMcKeown said:
Do any suppliers sell complete wiring harnesses for these tractors? That might actually be my best bet.
Bob in Nashville
Numerous of the earlier OEM main wiring harnesses are still available ... some for as little as $60. Drop me an eMail with the PIN from your tractor and I can research the appropriate harness for you.

Brian
 
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