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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, the forums here contain an amazing amount of inspiration for all of the future projects I plan. This being my first Ingersoll tractor, I was caught totally off guard by the amount of power to the wheels with the hydraulic drive! I LIKE IT:razz:! I've got a couple of questions though.
One- turning radius to the right is a lot shorter than to the left. Am I correct in assuming that the slop in the front axle bushing is the likely suspect?
Two- I haven't found in the forums where anyone has added a three point hitch to a 4016 and tapped into the hydraulics. I don't need rear hydraulics, but do need the lift for a rear grader blade/box blade/scarifier. And possibly a belly mount blade.
I've always been a fabricator, but conversation with someone who has already done the same, or who has similar uses can save so much time and money.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Many thanks!
 

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On the steering. Set the wheels straight ahead, crawl under the tractor and count the exposed teeth on the big gear. There is probably a difference, adjust the linkage to the axle till the teeth count is even, with the tires still straight.

Adding a 3pt. Factory did it by placing 2 Tee's on the valve then the hoses for both lifts mounted to them. This means both work at the same time, and the one with the least weight will be the first to lift and the last to lower. So many here use one Tee on the valve, then one hose on the valve that leads to a selector valve. From the selector valve are a hose running to each lift cylinder. If you put "selector valve" in the advance search it should find you threads with pictures of the setup and where some mounted the selector valve.

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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With some added weight and learning the characteristics of these tractors, they have a tremendous amount of pushing/pulling power.
As for the steering, readjusting it is a step by step process starting by centering the segment gear and correctly shimming it followed up with drag link and tie rod adjustments which I can elaborate in a followup post that I will put in Mac's Corner later today. :geek:
 

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You could use a sleeve hitch or a 3 point hitch for the box blade, a sleeve hitch being the easier of the two to obtain or fabricate. As for a belly blade, there are some members here that have fabricated them. Years back I fabricated one for my 448, used it several times on my stone driveway but sold it, I may have some pics of it. :geek:
 

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Hi Fahmahdave, welcome.

I have a 4018 that I put a 3 pt. on and went through its steering system.

System is the right word. It all works together.

The hvy. duty front axle pin is good thing. As are heim joints for the rod ends. Don't waste any time worrying about them being exposed like I did. They'll more than handle it and you can get greasable versions. They'll outlast all of us.

If you've gone through the steering manual though and followed the directions on set up, checked that the drag link is adjusted properly and still have this problem, your issue with turning radius, probably doesn't involve any of that. If you have a framing square, you can easily check a suspect portion of your front axle.

It should look like this,

Musical instrument Wood Guitar accessory String instrument accessory String instrument

Not like this,

Wood Wall Gas Wood stain Brickwork

This one happened to be on a power steering equipped unit but the measurements and fix would be the same. The axles are cast steel, not cast iron. They can be heated up and bent true. How big a deal you make that, depends on your own tooling and comfort level. Several of us have used different methods to achieve more or less, the same result.

I have a thread from March of this yr. where I fixed the one pictured.

On your 3pt. the hardest part will finding one and coughing up the dough. They're worth it IMO but not cheap. Then, I'd highly recommend a selector valve, which will allow independent operation of the 2 lift cylinders with the same lift lever. Where you put that, will depend on the valve type and vintage of your tractor. Especially since you said you don't need rear hydro.

My absolute favorite installation location, is one that Dundee did. My next favorite is my own but requires that the tractor be new enough to have the space for the underseat PTO but none of the plumbing. I did see where someone had recently managed to fit both, more or less in the same space but don't recall who.

Best of luck. I'm sure you'll love the finished result. I sure do.
 

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If you can find a HH34 3pt it will bolt right on your 4016. They are not always an easy find but they do come up for sale. The selector valve Gordy mentions is a great add (on my list too). There are plans for building one the planning section and there's some threads from some who have. Search 3pt or HH34. Somebody here should have pics of the hose hookup off the center lift.
 

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When I first bought my used 4016, 20 years ago, I was disappointed in the large turning radius. It made the tractor feel clumsy and too big for my wooded 3/4 acre lot. So I made a new pivot pin to tighten up the front axle and adjusted the steering like everyone has already stated above, BUT with one additional difference. I remove the spindles and machined about an 1/8" off the stops. What a difference it made! It now turns sharper (in both directions) then my smaller Wheel Horses and B 10 Allis Chalmers.
 

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The difference in costs and availability between a 3 pt. and a sleeve hitch is significant but so are the end results.

I don't have data to back it up but I have to think that a 3pt. is stronger, with more lift capacity. The leverage losses, likely found on a sleeve hitch lift linkage, almost demand it.

That is not to say that with some mods, a sleeve hitch can't have its utility increased. Frybie is planning to mount a mini boom pole and winch on one and I've even seen some convert them to hydraulic actuation.

Short of that though, the deal breaker for me, at least with an unmodified, factory installation, is that you can't use a sleeve hitch with the mower deck still attached and I would guess, same for a front blade.

With a 3pt. thats a non issue, especially with the addition of a selector valve. Increased utility and the ease to use it, are just on a whole different level.

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Welcome aboard, Fahmahdave.

There are steering stops on the spindles that can be adjusted as well to increase or decrease steering. If they are set different, that could be the reason for the turning radius being different from one side to the other.

With Respect, Willy
 

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Welcome aboard, Fahmahdave.

"There are steering stops on the spindles that can be adjusted as well to increase or decrease steering. If they are set different, that could be the reason for the turning radius being different from one side to the other."

My 1989 4016 does not have adjustable stops on the spindles. They are just pieces of up right flat iron welded to the spindle steering arms that hits the axle when turned all the way. The up right stops is what I milled an 1/8" off of that allowed for a sharper turning radius.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dave1MN2,
I'm of the same mind as you. To be able to use front (and belly) and rear implements simultaneously and without restriction is worth while.
Once I've got my "ready for winter" list nearer to complete, I'll hopefully have a little time to work on this project before the snow flies!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks Gordy,
This is about the only way I can crawl under the tractor these days, and still get up! As soon as I get the mower deck off, I'll see about tightening the axle pivot pin first. I can twist the ends back and forth about a half inch (or at least it seems so).
This little lift is a worth while tool for sure.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks to all of you for your input! In the next few weeks, I'll be able to get my tractor in and get the mower off. Before I put the snowblower on, I want to see a little more of what makes the 4016 tick (and steer)!
My initial thought is that the steering imbalance and weak turning radius won't make much too difference when doing snow blowing, grading, or general utility work. As far as lawn mowing though, I may not retire my old riding mower just yet!
I am going to look for a factory 3 point hitch setup, but at the same time will look into fabricating one.
I'll keep this thread updated as I go. And thanks again to you all!
 

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I'll see about tightening the axle pivot pin first. I can twist the ends back and forth about a half inch (or at least it seems so).
The simplest way to check that is to put your foot on top of a front tire and roll the tire forward then backward. I have found the original pins often have grooves worn into the pin where the plates ride. About the only way to tighten that up is to upgrade to this pin. The plates on the frame that sandwich the axle have bowed apart, this pin will pull them back together.

https://casecoltingersoll.com/showthread.php/89089-For-Sale-New-front-axle-pin-kit

:cheers:
Gordy
 

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Dave, some links for you.

I'm not gonna pretend that these are the final, or best words on the matters and certainly not the most concise, as they were laid down through the process but I'm been through everything you mentioned.

Taking slop out and working toward easing steering.

https://casecoltingersoll.com/showthread.php/35521-Steering-mod-test-results?highlight=center

Same thing, different tractor.

https://casecoltingersoll.com/showthread.php/36393-Steering-Mod-testing-Part-Deux?highlight=center

Straightening a front axle.

https://casecoltingersoll.com/showthread.php/87753-Straightening-4020PS-front-axle?highlight=center

Selector valve and 3pt. stuff.

https://casecoltingersoll.com/showt...S-leak-fix-and-HH34-update?highlight=selector
 
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