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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Frankie's new super duty front axle is done and oh is it alot easier to steer with a load in the bucket . The new tires are 5.7 x 8 C load rated trailer tires about 18" tall . Spindles and the hubs all use the same 1" trailer cup and cone bearings and seals . The rack is now mounted directly to the front axle ZERO bump steer :nana:Although this upgrade may not work for most , hopefully there are bits of it that can help others .
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have been watching the sales at PA. Got the trailer axle stubs & hubs $45 each , bearing sets for $25 each on my account at Part Source , little bit of thick wall seamless round stock and 2x4 tube from local metal shop $30 , 5.7 x8 trailer tires 40 each locally from a liquidator . All in about $280 with tax :canada: ( about $100 :usa:)
Well worth every sent.
Dave
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Nice execution on the HD front end David! :welding: With the pivot on top of the axle tube I thought it would make the tractor higher in the front. The original is in the middle of the axle tube. The picture appears that the tractor sits level or did the tires size change that? :???:

Keep the Peace :trink:
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice execution on the HD front end David! :welding: With the pivot on top of the axle tube I thought it would make the tractor higher in the front. The original is in the middle of the axle tube. The picture appears that the tractor sits level or did the tires size change that? :???:

You would think . But the 446 axle angles down about the same amount, so they cancel each other out . The new wheel are taller but I made the spindles shorter to compensate. There are shims welded to the back of the tube to ride against the frame drop down same way it does in 446. Back in day I built a lot of parts and frame/ cages for race cars , but I have never made a front axle for a tractor . Happy with the way it works .
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If a guy were to duplicate what you did for there 400 or 4000 series would they be able to run front attachments at all?

Frankie started out from 446 chassis . As it is , it would interfere with the front add on brackets. As I no longer use those was not an issue for me . But with a few mods. to dimensions it would work well on 4 series tractor that does not carry the same weight . That being said , here what I would do for a stock 4 series . Use 2x3 tube instead of the 2x4 . Depending on the tire size used - stock or the taller tires I used , the spindle height would change accordingly to compensate to keep the tractor level . The rack would be little more work and would require quick disconnects on the steering shaft to all installing of belts but is very doable or you could keep existing steering linkage. Hope this helps .
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi David,

Looking good. How are you running the steering shaft?
I ran it down the center under the motor . I used automotive steering column u joints . I dont have the mech. pto on mine. The steering shaft is cut off just below the support tube, u joint intermediate shaft,u joint, bearing support at the top end of the final shaft , u joint at rack . The final shaft swings back and forth as the axle articulates . You have some different mods than mine so you may have to play with angle and stuff . But what a huge difference it has made when a load is on .
Dave
 

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Hi David,

Are you spindles 90 degrees, or on a slight angle like the stock front end? If they are 90 did you have any issues? I'm thinking of making a solid front end, without the pivot.
Why would you go no pivot? Doing so will apply a torque to your frame every time you hit a rock or grade change with one tire.
 

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This would allow me to load my FEL to one side, which often happens.
Gotcha. Maybe consider a second pin that creates a lockout to prevent pivoting. It would give you options depending on the task at hand. I am thinking a couple plates that extend away from the center pivot with a hole that a pin can run through the two plates and the axle tube locking it in place.
 

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Locking the front axle will cause one real wheel to lift off the ground and you won't be able to move unless you have individual brakes. Dedicated wheel loaders, the front axle is solid and the rear one can oscillate, more stable when loaded.
 
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