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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a piece of 8" steel pipe, 28 1/2" long with 3/8" thick walls. I am thinking of cutting it in half to make two weights. Filled with concrete they should weigh about 80# each. For the front I will keep it simple and make a bracket. For the back it gets more complex as I have a sleeve hitch and a PTO. Any harm in supporting 160# on the sleeve hitch while running a snowcaster?
 

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The sleeve hitch will go up and down with the caster, and on my 224 would it would just abou drag the ground, so I removed the lift link and chained the hitch up to flat. On the back bracket ust under the back of the seat,in the corners there is a gap between it and the tank. I used these 3/16 steel hooks (see picture) to connect the chains to the corners. I ran the chains straight down against the diff housing, and loop the chains around the hitch and bolt it to the height I wanted. Any way I stacked 8 - 4"x8"x16" solid concrete blocks on it, and several small ratchet straps to hold the block in place. Google says 32 pounds for each of those blocks, 32 x 8 = 256 pounds. So 160, no problem ;)

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks @Gordy, I expect I will go that route. No need to stress the hydraulic system by lifting the extra 160# if not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One more question. How much weight do people like on the front for tilling or grading with a rear blade? I can add some weight when I pour these canister weights by adding some rebar to replace concrete. Unreinforced they should be about 80# each and I am making two. I could probably boost them up to about 100# each. I plan to make a bracket that hold them pretty close to the front end.

Anyone have an opinion on how much weight works well?

Anyone know off hand how much a 42" tiller weighs?
 

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I use four Case suitcase weights which weigh about 35-40 pounds each and that’s more than enough when using my tiller or my plug aerator which weighs appropriately 180 pounds without additional weights on it.
 

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I have 3-40# (120 #) JD weight on the front of the 224, if I try I can still pop wheelies. But for normal use with the tiller they are enough. I seem to recall someone saying 150# for the center drive tiller, and 175# for the side drive tiller.

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Remember JD makes excellent dead weight ;)

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have gathered parts and started fabrication. I found a mule bracket and since I have ideas for several attachments I decided to make a quick connect of sorts to mount different things on the one mule bracket. 4 1/2 carriage bolts form the connection. I utilized the one factory hole and then drill and tapped 3 others. I put lock nuts on the back. With the tapped holes, it works like jamb nuts.


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To hold my "can" weight I am going to use an angle with a couple arms:

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Yes, pic is upside down. I considered key holes, but slots seem to give more purchase for the bolt heads. The hood hinge should keep the bar from bouncing up and off the bolts. I can add a pin if need be to hold the bar from moving up. If I find the bar wanting to bend at the slots I can add a bar welded to the front of the L to reinforce.

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Here is a mockup with the 8" steel pipe " can" that will be filled with steel bars and concrete. A 1/2" all-thread rod with coupling nuts on each end will be cast in the middle to act as connection points for the arms.

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The arms will be able to pivot so I could you a spacer to push the weight about 4" further in front of the tractor if I need more weight leverage of greater ground clearance since the weight above is shown hanging below the mule bracket.

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Above is what it would look like extended up...and out.

I also expect I could add a second set of arms to allow a second "can" to be stacked on top of the first, although I do not think I will need that much weight. I should have the one can at 100#+

The bottom 2 carriage bolts will be used when I get around to making a parallelogram style bracket for a front sleeve hitch...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I created a bottom form with some plywood covered with wax paper. I drilled a hole in the plywood and bolted my center mounting rod (1/2" all thread with a coupling nut welded on each end and a washer double nutted in the middle to help further secure the rod once the concrete is poured.

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I loaded as much scrap iron in once I poured about a 2" base so that no steel would be exposed. Once poured and sitting over night I put it on the scale...119.4#, so we'll call it 120. :)

I will be able to strap it to my sleeve hitch (disconnected) for snow blowing duty.

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It hangs nicely from the front bracket. Placing it on the rolling dolly makes it easy to bolt to the arms.

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It hangs a little low, as shown. I am making a bracket to push it forward and up so that it is no lower than the bottom of the mule.

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Once that bracket is done it will be down to paint. I am going to paint the brackets Power Red and the weight black.
 
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