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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have finally been able to spend some time using my tractor! Already I am wondering how I got by without it.

I live on a hill and am having trouble with traction when backing up. When the tractor is pointed down hill, I slip one wheel when trying to reverse. I have the wheel weights attached. Do I need to have more weight in the back? It slips even with the bucket empty.
 

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viewtopic.php?t=3974

That 6018 will need weight on back to back up hills do have weight box to go on back.

Loader tractor are very weight needy on rear.

You could check with person bought tractor from weight box is in pass owners I'm guessing.

Adding weight to Hitch is way to go if there no box, Box blade is good attachment for Loader
 

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With the ag lugs traction in reverse is not as good as in forward, particularly on soft ground. I have 300 lbs of wheel weights and about 400 lbs on the 3 pt which is pretty good weight for most things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
gator_rider2 said:
http://www.casecoltingersoll.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3974

That 6018 will need weight on back to back up hills do have weight box to go on back.

Loader tractor are very weight needy on rear.

You could check with person bought tractor from weight box is in pass owners I'm guessing.

Adding weight to Hitch is way to go if there no box, Box blade is good attachment for Loader
Looks like I need to get more weight. The previous owner lived on flat ground with very firm soil. He did have a few hundred pounds of cast iron that he put on the hitch when using the loader...but he kept that to use with his new tractor. I don't have a weight box, I will start to hunt around for some steel to put on the hitch.

Bart said:
With the ag lugs traction in reverse is not as good as in forward, particularly on soft ground. I have 300 lbs of wheel weights and about 400 lbs on the 3 pt which is pretty good weight for most things.
WOW...I was concerned about putting 200lbs on the hitch. Guess it takes some weight to get traction. I have no idea how much the wheel weights are.

Years ago I drove a lot of vintage tractors with separate brake pedals. This was great for sharp turns and to keep one wheel from spinning.
 

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Each cast iron wheel weight weighs 37 1/2 LBS. A pair weighs 75 LBS. A wheel weight kit consists of 4 cast iron weights for a total of 150 LBS. It is possible to put two kits on your tractor for a total of 300 LBS.


You can also have the tires loaded with RimGuard and add another 90 LBS or so per wheel. Other loader owners have put as much as 600 LBS behind the rear axle but kept it close in. Weight makes the difference. When you add a substantial amount, the difference will be noticeable.
 

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I have a 1991 Ingy 6018 with factory 27X10.50X15 skid steer style tires. 2 sets of wheel weights and urethane foam filled tires (no idea total weight) but not enough. Anything but hard pavement and the rears will slip.

Looks like you have the 29X12.50X15 lugs. More aggressive bite, but the added width probably adds floatation.

Lots of options for adding weight, so do some research. But, for the best bang for the buck, I vote with Gator. A box blade adds weight (and lots of utility). If more weight is needed, it is pretty easy to add on some cinderblocks, or stack on some suitable weight.

Get a box with rippers/scarifiers and you can loosen up compacted/hardened soil which makes scooping it up with the loader a lot easier.

Plus all the other things you can do with a box blade.

Easy to hook-up or drop when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I put the rototiller back on the tractor...and put on top of it the chains ( I know...they would probably work better on the tires...but I am lazy). I also put on there a bunch of huge splitting wedges. With all of this weight....the 6018 was MUCH better. I did not get stuck once!

Tomorrow I am heading to a friends house to load up some huge free wood. I will leave the tiller attached for the time being. I will look into options for weight. I am planning on building a backhoe to put on the back so I can't afford a box blade at the same time..but that should add 300 lbs or so.

Thanks for all of the fast replies!! This site is a great resource.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Snotrocket said:
The first thing you should do after adding more weight is put your chains on. They're not doing any good sitting on top of your tiller. :thumbsup:
But to put the chains on, I would need to open the box (they are new) and actually put them on....sigh. I like the lazy install method of just putting them on top of the tiller!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, putting the tiller on the tractor was enough weight for this job. We bucked and moved 10,000lbs of wood from a friends side yard into our trailer and hauled it home (three trips). The larger rounds were 30" across. Before the tractor, I would have spent days in the woods using the maul and wedges to get the wood to manageable size. Now, we just used the bucket and dumped the wood directly into the trailer. Now I can use my hydraulic splitter at home to work on this wood. Saved us a LOT of time. I was pleased with how little gas we burned as well, somewhere around 3 gallons. My dad enjoying saving his back (and using a FEL for the first time):


How did I survive without the 6018? OH yea, I used a wheelbarrow and pushed the wood UP hill. Clearly the tractor is much more fun.
 

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There are several things you could do to make your life easier.

One is to put Kwik-Tach on the loader arms and get the bucket modified to fit.

Then, get a set of forks for the Kwik -Tach. If you have never owned a machine with a set of forks, then you don't know what you are missing. Once you start using them, you will wonder how you ever got along without them. With forks, you can load wood onto old 4 ft wide pallets and move them around with the machine there after. You can add two opposing sides to the pallets so that they hold more split wood and then leave them to air dry. When they are done, you just move them with the tractor to a convenient spot close to the house. Firewood is labour intensive and the more ways you can find to extract the labour from the process, the better. Quite often, decent hardwood skids can be had for free. Companies would rather give them away than pay a disposal company to remove a 40 cubic yard bin full of them.

With the Kwik-tach feature, you can go from bucket to forks and back to bucket in two minutes flat. Talk to Brian Hildreth about this. He's a member and Ingersoll dealer. You can find him on page one of our Members List. Look on the top right of your screen of the Members icon and click on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hydriv said:
There are several things you could do to make your life easier.

One is to put Kwik-Tach on the loader arms and get the bucket modified to fit.

Then, get a set of forks for the Kwik -Tach. If you have never owned a machine with a set of forks, then you don't know what you are missing. Once you start using them, you will wonder how you ever got along without them. With forks, you can load wood onto old 4 ft wide pallets and move them around with the machine there after. You can add two opposing sides to the pallets so that they hold more split wood and then leave them to air dry. When they are done, you just move them with the tractor to a convenient spot close to the house. Firewood is labour intensive and the more ways you can find to extract the labour from the process, the better. Quite often, decent hardwood skids can be had for free. Companies would rather give them away than pay a disposal company to remove a 40 cubic yard bin full of them.

With the Kwik-tach feature, you can go from bucket to forks and back to bucket in two minutes flat. Talk to Brian Hildreth about this. He's a member and Ingersoll dealer. You can find him on page one of our Members List. Look on the top right of your screen of the Members icon and click on it.
Thanks for the information. The previous owner fabricated a set of forks that bolt to the bucket with a huge bracket. I just need to spend an afternoon cleaning them up and testing it. I can't wait to have this setup to move pallets(I have an unlimited supply of pallets from a friends business). My dad and I burn about 10 cords of wood between our 2 houses, so we spend a lot of time working on wood. I feel that it's a lot more fun to be out splitting or cutting, than at the gym, so I enjoy the work. My plan is to eventually setup my wood stacks to move with the pallet forks. BUT I have 2 years of wood already stacked. My yard is also very wet and on a hill, so I I need to figure out a new spot to stack pallet based cord wood.
 

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We need to see a picture of the forks.

This is slightly off topic for this thread but I noticed the hydraulic hoses on your tiller are hanging loose. Dirt and contamination are the enemy of a hydraulic system and a primary entry point for contamination on your loader is the PTO. Post a picture of your PTO connection and a better picture of the tiller hoses and the guys here will walk you through replumbing the hoses to reduce the risk of contamination (and add convenience).

BTW: You mentioned this was your dad's first experience using a loader. The contented look on his face says it all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
WOW, chains made a HUGE difference. Finally got around to cutting them down to size and installing on the tractor. I then went down to my back yard, and tried to back drag a pile that I previously got stuck on. No problems now! Tires spun a bit and then dug right in and pulled me out. NICE!

Tomorrow I am going to show the wife how to operate the tractor and we are going to move a bunch of wood rounds at the back of our yard to my wood splitting area. Hopefully we don't get stuck.



 
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