[Plainsman]

Greetings all, not new, I have been watching since 2013...

Stable is mostly green, but my 222 is such a solid workhorse it's difficult to ignore.

Wondering, I have been researching replacing the pump, wondering if anyone has recommendations for a replacement unit. It's a Borg Warner pump at present, blade up and down are super slow, I changed the hyd oil hoping that would help, no such luck.

Anyway, great group!

Doc

 

[grummy]

First question is how does the tractor DRIVE ? Is the drive weak ? Can you tie it tight to something and easily spin the tires in low range ? If so, your pump is fine.

So, does the blade lift squeal when you lift it ? If so, the Lift port spool relief is probably set wrong or has a weak spring. Does the Lift move slowly on its own ?

Can you find a way to put a hydraulic pressure gauge on the two lift circuit ports and see what kind of pressure you have there ? Should be around 700psi ish.

Lastly, what "Hyd Oil" did you use ? Case GT's use motor oil... I tend to use a 5-40 Semi Synthetic diesel engine oil.

 

[Capt. Dan]

Welcome to Plainsman !! Great to have you here and finally introducing yourself.

Looks like Grummy has given you some good advice. Please keep us updated on your progress and post some pics when you get a chance.

Enjoy the site
Capt Dan

 

[Plainsman]

Grummy, it does push like the dickens, so perhaps it is the relief spring setting. It is slow up/down without the deck or blade. I used oil recommended, I think I had 15-40, when I changed it. Is a gauge needed to set/check the relief valve? I do not have a pressure gauge. The 222 was my first garden tractor, and I purchased quite a pile of manuals from the local Ingersol guy when I acquired it. Thank you for the input!

 

[grummy]

>> Is a gauge needed to set/check the relief valve?

Not necessarily. My personal experience has been that I was not actually able to set the pressure so high that it can damage a cylinder. I've blown the bottom off of cylinders, but not with the valve set too tight. That is probably because the spring inside is only going to push back so much against the pressure you matter what.

But, I full well know that there have been many, MANY small differences in the travel valves released over the years, so your experience could vary.

It would seem that if your pump is strong, and it appears so, that your particular spring is just relieving all the time, or, anytime you activate the valve. It could also be that you have internal leakage in the O-rings. The first thing I would do is get under it and make sure you have full travel on the spool each way. Next, with a blade on the front for some loading, I would turn up the relief valve for that spool by one full turn clockwise, then see what happens. If there is no change, I'd go another turn, but if that makes no difference at all, then I would be disassembling the valve (or just replacing it quickly with another as a test).

As far as adjusting without a gauge, I usually have done it by seat of the pants. I want my blade to be able to very easily lift the tractor with down pressure, and you would want it to lift at least 50 additional (or so pounds) without relief. I've had tractors that if the front blade was hooked under something heavy, you could lift the rear of the tractor off the ground without anyone on it or additional weight on the rear. You should be able to hear it relieve,... it should squeal a little, at least all of mine have.

If you get that thing adjusted correctly though, you might just decide to change tractor colors across the board ! Lol !

 

[Plainsman]

Looking through the tech manuals, I'll get that adjusted. Looks as though on my 222 the relieve valve for the cylinder and the drive system are in the same valve body, the cylinder circuit is the smaller of the adjusters? The 222 is at our farm, so I'll need to study up on this, no internet at the acres.
I'd have more orange in the stable, but it's a bit difficult to find, compared with the "long green line". I love that 222 though. Had the 301K rebuilt, and the whole machine has been quite solid.

 

[ROCKLAND VALLEY]

Looking through the tech manuals, I'll get that adjusted. Looks as though on my 222 the relieve valve for the cylinder and the drive system are in the same valve body, the cylinder circuit is the smaller of the adjusters? The 222 is at our farm, so I'll need to study up on this, no internet at the acres.
I'd have more orange in the stable, but it's a bit difficult to find, compared with the "long green line". I love that 222 though. Had the 301K rebuilt, and the whole machine has been quite solid.

We stock rebuild kits for the cylinder, Grummy has you covered with his advice. I would start with the cylider rebuild as its easy and not very costly and then you know you are good there. The springs do fatigue over time tool and crap can get in there too. The releif springs have been set all over the place depening on years, even though the "books" say otherwise. But I can tell you some will lift a plow with an extra 300 lbs on it up and some wont lift the plow out of a snow bank. And the late model black frame 3000-4000 modles we have seen many that barley lift a plow or blower... If you do not have a gauge you can do half or full turn at a time. The loaders have basicly the same componets in their syestem and are 1000 to 2000 psi so you have some wiggle room.