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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. Got a new spindel nut. Had to retap the threads on the spindel. I have it all together but whem I tighten down the nut onto the spindel it causes the spindel to bind when I try to turn the blades. If I loosen the nut it will turn freely. What am I doing wrong?
 

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Simply put ... something must be missing in the cross section of the spindle build up. Maybe the washer on top of the upper bearing or the lower spacers. You are sure you have the center (between the bearings) spacer in place, I trust.

Get the parts diagram and ensure it is all there. Every part is required or you can get pulley or spindle grounded out on the deck.

Brian
 

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I think they're talking about the washer, ref.# 29. Having never had one of these apart, but by just looking at the diagram, could you have one of the pulleys on upside down? I'm not sure that would make a difference as like I said, I've never had one apart.
 

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OK...... let's back up a bit here so that everyone understands how you got to having this problem.

I don't care about anything else that you did to this deck. My only concern is with the center spindle because I understand that is where the problem is.

1. Did you remove the center spindle from the mandrel (#1 in the diagram) in order to chase the threads with a die?

2. If so, when you installed the spindle back into the mandrel bearings, did you install the washer and shield ( #'s 27/28/3 and 4) onto the spindle first? Not all of these items go on the spindle. It all depends WHICH model of deck you have because the exploded diagram you are looking at covers ALL the deck models from the J to the N. Case and Ingersoll made small changes to the decks and things like those four parts are part of the changes that happened as they went from a J to a K to an L to an M and finally to the N deck. Those parts are all there for a reason and if you did not put all of them back and in the correct order, then that can cause your problem.

3. Once you inserted the spindle back into the mandrel so that it protruded out of the top bearing, did you install the washer (#29) onto the spindle. This washer is essential.

4. When you put the spindle pulley onto the mandrel, did you make sure that you did not put it on upside down? LOOK at the other pulleys. There is a difference between top and bottom. Your problem has to do with how you put this back together. When tackling something for the very first time, it is wise to make WRITTEN NOTES on the order of the parts you remove. Putting labels with numbers on them helps. Marking the tops of items makes sure that you don't install that item upside down.


Now.... go back to the garage... take the spindle back out and make a comparison to the copy of Page 10 of the manual that you are about to print out. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :sidelaugh:
 

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If all parts are in place (correctly) and there is still binding I would measure the length of the C10810 spacer between the bearings. Minimum is 1.823" per an old "timely tip". Any less and the bearings will be tight. Anytime the spindle nut has come loose and the bearings have worn a groove in the shaft it's a good idea to check the spacer length as the ends have been worn down since the spacer was not locked to the inner bearing races by the torque of the nut.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I only removed the nut and top pulley. I tapped the spindel while it was fully mounted in the deck. Don't think anything should have shifted as the lower pulley held everything in place. The pulley is on with the high center down. If I were to turn it over the pulley would drag on the deck. This deck is new to me last year so I do not know if it has ever been worked on. Maybe the spacers are worn out. I'll have to pull this completely apart and check them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I pulled it apart and founf the lower pulley to have a deep groove / s;ot in it. The spindel it quite worn also. I would assume the bearings are shot as the top bearing was just laying on it. Looks like a complete rebuild is needed.
 

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I'm inclined to believe you could replace EVERY part in the center spindle, including the pulleys, for that price.

The housings, even the aluminum ones, rarely really need to be replaced.

The spindle is the most expensive part at $53. Is it bent? If not, rarely is it in need of replacement. A bit or scarring on the shaft OD is irrelevant on this application, as long as it can be fit through the bearings. Even if scarred up, some emory cloth or a file gets the job done.

Bearings $6-11 ... small parts are mostly a couple of dollars each.

Drop me a line with the part numbers you need and I'll get a proper price back to you quickly, including advice/questions on what to replace and why.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Need the lower pulley C21581 $25.35, Bearings 2 each C28971 $22.00 (for both), bearing spacer C10810 $7.73, lower spacer C25541 $2.12. I have ommited the spindel, housings and snap rings provided I can get this apart. How do I get them out? I canot drive them through because of the snap rings inside.
 

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The first thing you need to understand is that the two pulleys on that shaft are secured to it using half-moon (Woodruff) keys and those must be removed prior to driving out the actual spindle. That sentence was put there for other members who may read this thread. As I understand it, you already have the upper and lower pulleys removed from the shaft. Just pull out the Woodruff keys and slide the shaft out of the bearings. If the shaft does not slide easily, then put the nut back onto it until it is flush with the top of the spindle and use a 2 LB hammer to strike a short piece of 2 x 4 laying on the nut. There's a chance that the lower bearing will come out with the shaft along with the bearing spacer.

If the lower bearing stays in place, then you need to to use a long punch to knock the bottom bearing out. The bearing spacer can be pushed slightly to one side so that the punch can strike the inner race of the bearing. Depending on how rusty everything is, the bearing may take several strong hammer blows to dislodge. Once you have on bearing out, the other one is easy. Just flip the deck over and punch it out. The snap rings stay in place. There is no reason to remove them unless they have been damaged in some way.

This deck has sent you a message. REBUILD ME. When one bearing fails, the other five are not far behind. Order six new bearings from one of our resident dealers and put this problem behind you. Other areas of concern are the two gauge wheels that support the rear of the deck when mowing as well as the belt idler pulley, the idler pulley tensioning spring and the idler pulley bracket PIVOT. Look at the belt for cracking and fraying. The replacement cost of this deck is more than $1500.00. Spend the money to replace the worn out parts now and enjoy at least four years of trouble-free grass cutting. Check the shell over for areas of heavy rust, pin holes, broken welds, cracked steel, bent parts. You have lots of time right now to conduct a thorough refurb. Our Mod Brad (Case220) completely redid his deck and has a thread showing what he did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you HD for your information. I do have long punches and that is the information I was looking for. The money I save on other parts will cover the cost of the bearings. Already replaced the gage wheels and blades / belts during the summer.

Now you made this statement "Order six new bearings from one of our resident dealers" . I would like to ask that you create a place where all resident dealers are listed. I would like to get parts from them but I don't know who they are.

To all of you who are watching my posts. I must apologise for my spelling. The keys on my lap top are so close together I keep hitting the key next to the one I really wanted.

Merry Christmas
 

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AO,
You need to spend some time exploring the FAQ's section of the Tech Library. There is one document there titled "Ingersoll Dealers" and another document titled "Where to buy STUFF". When viewing the latter document, you are seeking "PARTS" - OEM. That document is laid out alphabetically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The spacer between the dust cap and lower bearing. Is that supposed to have a grove in it where it contacts the center of the bearing? If not can I just flip it over and reuse it?

HD. Sorry about that when I click my shortcut to get on the forums it brings me to the tractor talk page. Since I never see the bord of index page I forget it is there. Guess I'll have to create a new short cut from that page.
 

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On spindles of this type, I use a 6" long 1/2" drive extension to remove the first bearing. I put the female end of the extension, which has the larger diameter, down thru the other bearing and hold it to the side so the wide part will rest against the bearing and drive it out. I normally do this on a press but striking the extension with a hammer is OK. I keep several extensions just for this purpose as banging them with a hammer renders them unusable as an extension with sockets and ratchet wrenches. I support the spindle housing using large diameter pipe nipples of which I have an assortment in my press tooling box. Of course the spindle itself must be removed first!!
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :letitsnow:
 
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