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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the plans for the 3 point in the “plans” section the plans for the OEM 3 point? I really want a 3 point for my tractor and have been thinking about building one.
 

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Having built 3 of them, I'd say yes, But

What will you do about the lift cylinder? Awful tough to buy that cylinder. What are your thoughts?
 

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The lift cylinder is shorter than a stock 3 point cylinder but on older 3points the cylinders are the same diameter. Newer 3points have a larger diameter cylinder that produces more lifting force. Both cylinders are still available. J26/LT26 3point cylinder P/N C26494, smaller diameter, HH34 3point cylinder P/N C32245, larger diameter.:cool:
 

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Here's a thread to have a read, might help or give you ideas,

 

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I've seen somewhere on this site someone used a JD cylinder in place of the oem one. Was extremely close in size and a common size that was used so price may be reasonable. Bottom mount was different but easy to change there. I'll try to find it.

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I used a random cylinder that I bought off of Craigslist. I'm pretty sure it was the tilt-back cylinder off of a forklift, based on its dimensions and the fact that it had both a flow restrictor and a travel restrictor within it.

But having removed the restrictions, it's a 3" ID by about 6 or 8" stroke cylinder. It works like a charm.

Since you're building your own frame/structure, you can adjust it to fit any cylinder that's at least large enough, but not huge. In my case that meant dropping the lower pivot rod about an inch lower than the bottom of the hitch's backplate, and making the lifting yoke's "crank" arm a little longer than the drawings specify. The goal is that when the cylinder travels its full stroke the lifting yoke correspondingly travels its full swing. Some kind of simple 2d cad makes it possible to figure that out.

Here's a couple pictures of the hitch with the larger cylinder:

And here's a post with a few more details.


Bob
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Hi WrightBuckeye,
I have two spare lower bars from a J26 3point. They were originally in the Z shape and I straightened them for use on an HH34 3point hitch. Since this time I have received the original bars from the previous owner of my 6018 and installed them. They have 5/8" swivel ends on them and if you would like to have them for your project, send me a PM. I think that these bars could be re-bent back to J26 3point configuration. Before putting them on my press, I would leave them outside in the sun to warm them up. But for an HH34 3point hitch they are fine as is.:cool:

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi WrightBuckeye,
I have two spare lower bars from a J26 3point. They were originally in the Z shape and I straightened them for use on an HH34 3point hitch. Since this time I have received the original bars from the previous owner of my 6018 and installed them. They have 5/8" swivel ends on them and if you would like to have them for your project, send me a PM. I think that these bars could be re-bent back to J26 3point configuration. Before putting them on my press, I would leave them outside in the sun to warm them up. But for an HH34 3point hitch they are fine as is.:cool:

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Excuse my ignorance, but how did you bend them? I’m very new to metal fabrication.
 

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They were originally in the Z pattern and I straightened them on my 30 ton press.
On a J26 3point the lifting arms are closer together than the arms on an HH34 and the reason for the Z pattern bends. An HH34 has wider lift arms and the reason that the lower arms are straight. I recommend that if you build a 3point that you design it after an HH34. I will look to see if there are any good pics or parts diagrams of these hitches and post a link to them.:cool:
 
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