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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my engine rebuild project I have among other things rejuvenated the exhaust system. Now after installing the exhaust pipes to the muffler I finding that although the nuts on the muffler clamps are tightened about 1/4" more than before disassembly the muffler can still be rotated. I honestly don't recall if this was the case before or not. My guess is that I should continue tightening the clamp nuts until there is no more muffler movement?
 

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I don’t quite understand your problem but there were two different size exhausts depending on year/ model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your response! This machine is a 1986 year and I became the owner in 1988, so it is highly unlikely that there is a mismatch in sizes (see attached photos). the original muffler/pipe clamps are stamped 11/8"
 

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Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me, but in the pictures (especially the center one) it looks like marks on the pipes from where it used to be seated in the muffler. It can be tough to get the pipes all the way back in, past the dents made by the clamp in the outer pipe. I use one of these "exhaust pipe expanders", they can be found at most auto parts stores for around $10.

123408



Cheers'
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The pipes are going into the muffler as far as they can and should go. That is all dictated by how the pipe mounts to the the exhaust ports! That's not my problem! See my original post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took the liberty of measuring the the pipes ( 1.12") OD and the muffler ports (1.21") OD, so as I thought the pipes and the muffler are the 1 1/8" variety. It must be the case, that the clamps were never tightened enough and the pipes were probably a little loose before I took them apart.
 

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I'd have to say that the ones I've taken apart were all, not a super tight fit. When I've installed mine, I've tightened it up tight, and I've found that after a couple of uses, (getting the exhaust nice and hot) that I could tighten them again. After this, it seemed pretty decent. I've tightened mine, to where I don't see movement, but, if ever you take it off again, they do take a bunch of twisting, before they come apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Lionel! Before I took them apart there was approx. 1/4" of clamp threads beyond the bottom of each nut. Now with the refreshed components there is approx. 1/2" of clamp threads beyond the the bottom of the nuts and there is still some movement, but better. When yours were tight about how much thread was beyond the bottom of each nut?
 

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Thanks Lionel! Before I took them apart there was approx. 1/4" of clamp threads beyond the bottom of each nut. Now with the refreshed components there is approx. 1/2" of clamp threads beyond the the bottom of the nuts and there is still some movement, but better. When yours were tight about how much thread was beyond the bottom of each nut?
Hmm, I can't say as I really paid attention to threads remaining, I replaced my clamps with new ones when I did it and on first clamp down,,

Tightened them up with a 3/8's ratchet, till I couldn't get any more out of it. They are somewhat difficult to clamp down, because you can't really pinch metal into a smaller diameter, hence the pipe that's clamp down, should display a bit of a bulge either side of the clamp area. On yours, I don't see any slits either, on the sides of the nipple ends, which helps it squeeze together.

I take it you are reusing your original clamps? If so, I would assume when they were originally clamp down, they were done to a tight fit. As time progresses, heat and stress relieving does it's thing, when you remove the clamps, and tighten them back up, there should be more threads showing because the clamps themselves are probably not as straight as they used to be,, and you probably have small indentations where you applied the clamp. So, when you first removed the clamps, they were not as tight as they should have been.

I wouldn't worry about it much, use a 3/8's ratchet and cinch it down,, with one hand down the middle of the handle,, IE, not 2 hands reefing on it, because the clamp thread section will break on you. Tight is good because you want to keep the thing from rattling and escaping exhaust gas,, out the muffler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks again Lionel!! If I wasn't concerned about maybe not being able to reuse the exhaust port gaskets, I would reassemble it with some Permatex red high temp silicone sealant where the pipes inter the muffler?
 

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I found the exhaust gaskets kind of break up over time and once pulled off, it leaves little shred behind. They aren't expensive to replace,, not so sure on using a high temp silicone at the joints, it's not something I've used, perhaps someone else can chime in,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks again Lionel, the gaskets were brand new and uncertain if they can be reused after they are compressed ?
 

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High RV temp silicone is used a lot on older motor home exhaust, no gasket, like on mine when I had it 454 Chevy engine, the manifolds warp do to heat. ( most don't know that you must let the motors run for a while after stopping to equalize the temp.) Put a bead on let it set for a bit then tighten................Curt
 

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Well, it depends on how much it was ran between new and now,, if it didn't shred a bit when removing it, they are still flat and should do the trick. Let's say you use a gasket and tighten it up nicely, and you think, shoot, somethings wrong and take it apart again,, that gasket is perfect for reuse. I've found heat will at times cause them to stick to one part of the flanges and when taken off, little parts are left on the flange,, I wouldn't re-use that, just because the mating surfaces aren't intact,,

This style you used?
Font Jewellery Silver Circle Auto part


I think it's ebay that also sells some type of exhaust gasket that looks like a cardboard cut out,, I can't say about those, as I've never used those,,
 
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