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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put my snowcaster on this afternoon to move it from the garage to the shed. THis is the first time I attach it to my 446 and I already have a few issues. Watch the video. You will notice that the lift arm hits the bottom of the starter. The engine does get forced upward slightly if I max it out. The engine is NOT OEM to this machine. THe previous owner installed it. Im just looking to see if anyone here with an Onan engine AND a snowcaster in this configuration has this problem.

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y98/BO ... G_1212.mp4
 

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Brad,

The arm on my caster comes very close to the engine but does not touch. It does however hit the heat shield but does not do any damage. The arm looks bent on your caster but even if it was straight I don't think it would help your situation.

I can get some photos for you if it would help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The engine on my tractor does not have the heat shields as you can tell from the video. It sucks in the summer but it should be nice in the winter when I have the cab on it. I almost put it on today but I just cant pick it up by myself and fit it to the tractor. I may go buy a cheap hoist at Horror Freight.

On a side note, can you tell me what holes you are using on the mule drive for the caster? My dad had this snowcaster on the tractor for a couple years and he used this rod to hold it in place because one of the bolts decided to go missing in the middle of a snow storm. I do have the pivot bushings and new bolts so I just need to know if the mule drive and snowcaster go together using the top holes or the bottom holes.



This is a newer SB series snowcaster that has the retrofit kit installed on it to allow it to be used on the 3 digit series machines. Just in case someone looks at it and starts scratching their head.
 

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Hi Troops,
Two things that I see here, but possibly more. Goldencoves 448 has a P series Onan that was setup as a replacement for B43 and B48 Onans on Case/Ingersoll tractors. What this means is that the stock starter solenoid installed on the tractor is still used with the P series repower and not the starter mounted solenoid/bendix engagement. The P series on the tractor in the video has a starter mounted solenoid and it is in the way of the snowcaster lift arm. P series Onans of spec number 10936 were among a very few configurations that used the inertia engaged bendix type starter motor. B series Onans have the starter motor on the opposite side of the engine from P series and were all inertia starter motor types on Case/Ingersoll.
Bending the snowcaster lift arm more where the present bend is may take care of this problem. The starter solenoid being starter mounted also leaves no room for the hose to the oil cooler that replaced the steel line that was in the way when the P series was installed.
Also when you mix incorrect repowers, SB type snowblowers, adapters to run the SB type blowers on 400 series tractors you will need to some adaptation to bring it all together.
Also need to replace the threaded rod with smooth, drill and cotter pin it, and replace the missing bushings.
Mad Mackie in CT
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I will have to take a closer look at this tomorrow after I put on the lights. The rod will be replaced with the correct hardware and I will figure something out with that hose. The more I mess with this tractor, the more aggervated I get with it. I just shake my head in disgust when I see all the half assed work that was done on it when it was repowered and put back together.

I was going to leave the mower deck on the 224 and just put the tractor away for the winter but I have a feeling I may need it this winter because the 446 is more then likely going to break down at the worse possible time.
 

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CASE 220/4 said:
On a side note, can you tell me what holes you are using on the mule drive for the caster? My dad had this snowcaster on the tractor for a couple years and he used this rod to hold it in place because one of the bolts decided to go missing in the middle of a snow storm. I do have the pivot bushings and new bolts so I just need to know if the mule drive and snowcaster go together using the top holes or the bottom holes.
The frame is supposed to be mounted in the upper holes, as yours is done.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Brian. I will be emailing you in the next few days for a snowcaster belt for the 446. I just need to go over the tractor and see if it needs anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Boomer, I have the wrong engine for my tractor. Im just going to have to figure something out. I can either make a new arm or just run it as it is and not raise the caster all the way up. This 446 has been a major pain in my side ever since I bought it. I want to go right through it like I did to my 220 but I dont want to spend $1,000 on it and still have a short wheelbase non holding valve tractor. I will just sell it and buy something newer.
 

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This is not a subject I've researched deeply, but I would presume the "right" starter is available and compatible with the engine. Adding a remote starter solenoid and replacing the starter doesn't seem like a mountain to climb ...

Do any of those knowledgeable know the starter part number sans solenoid?

Is it the 191-1828?

Brian
 

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bhildret said:
This is not a subject I've researched deeply, but I would presume the "right" starter is available and compatible with the engine. Adding a remote starter solenoid and replacing the starter doesn't seem like a mountain to climb ...

Do any of those knowledgeable know the starter part number sans solenoid?

Is it the 191-1828?

Brian
Onan 191-1828 is a good number for the inertial type starter motor, this P/N may have been changed since. Starters with solenoids cannot be modified to inertial type as the solenoid has a dual purpose both closing the high current switch and engaging the bendix to the flywheel and the armatures are different. Brian knows this, I just wanted others to know. Both types need some TLC at times in the bendix area with periodic cleaning and lube more so with the inertial type.
Something for further investigation on P series Onans, the flywheel with ring gear used with inertial type starters may have a different number of teeth that the ones used with solenoid type starter motors. Also the number of teeth on the bendixes may also differ between the two types. This pertains to P series Onans only as far as I know.
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Again, not an area I have thorough history and research on, but the only Onan P218-220 references I have presently show only a single ring gear ... implying one could swap around starters ...

The 191-1828 is a current number with Onan ... and with aftermarket sourcing. I'm judging most owner's would try the aftermarket pricing I've seen and skip Onan's cost ...

Where's Boomer when we need inputs ... ?

Brian
 

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Boomer is probably in the outhouse with a candle reading the latest LGAC!!!! :sidelaugh:

Brian, look in the P series parts manual in sales codes for "23EF, Housing and Wheel Ingersoll (B)", I'm not sure what this means, but a 23EF is listed under a 10936 spec which is a P series replacement for a B series on Case/Ingersoll tractors. Code 23EF is not listed in the P series sales codes for 3000 and 4000 series tractors.
A person could go "Mad" after spending too much time in Onan service and parts manuals!! :sidelaugh: Brigg & Stratton ain't much better!!!!
Mad Mackie in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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Yep ... starter code 33AV, p/n 191-1828, is used on that engine code. There is no optional ring gear listed so it must be compatible.

Seems maybe the cleanest way out of this issue on an otherwise great setup. I can't vouch for the quality of these aftermarkets, but they seem to be pricing around $80 plus a starter solenoid.

That particular starter must be common enough in the electrical service world ... looks like all the "starter/generator" guys have it. We support 3 Outdoor Power Equipment aftermarket brands and none have it listed. I won't try to sell anyone the Onan OEM ... :shock:

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gentlemen, thank you for technical info on this starter issue. I dont want to get into swapping starters on this machine right now as I cant afford to have it down in case it snows. I will just use the plow this season and get things straightened out come summer.
 

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Hello everyone,

I too have a 446 ('75) repowered with a P218 (out of a Deere) that has the starter and solenoid on the right hand side. I also have a LX790 with the same issue. (not installed in anything at the moment).

I have been reading this thread with interest to see if it is possible to use a starter without a solenoid or even using a different oil pan,starter, shroud, etc.

I didn't want this discussion to come to an end...or maybe I should start a new thread.




CASE 220/4: Does your plow lift arm clear the solenoid? Mine does not (H54). I must have a different version.

Thanks,

Joey
 

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H-Series blades were designed when all the tractors had Kohler's in them. Your lift arm goes over the front axle and needs no adapter plate on the bell crank to get hooked up. The later J, K, L etc Series of blades have the lift arm coming under the axle and the adapter plate is a must. The introduction of the Onan engine in 1972 is what triggered the redesign of the utility blade.
 
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