P220 Restoration
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These bolts are 5/16" and also have a copper washer under the heads for sealing purposes. The torque is 8-10 FTLBS or 96-120 INLBS.
This is a fairly common oil leakage area and Onan has upgraded the gasket for this adapter.
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Thanks Bob where did you find that if you don't mind me askingThese bolts are 5/16" and also have a copper washer under the heads for sealing purposes. The torque is 8-10 FTLBS or 96-120 INLBS.
This is a fairly common oil leakage area and Onan has upgraded the gasket for this adapter.
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On the torque chart it shows the specs for 5/16" nuts and studs and this is what I use. The service manual is lacking info in some areas, but it is all that we have.
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@Bob MacGregor have another quick question the rubber cushions foe the engine mounts go under the frame not in-between the motor mount and the frame correct? Finding out I should have taken more pictures during the disassembly 🤦 also does the direction of the bolts matter they seem to be easier to install from the bottom with nuts on top
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Yes, the rubber cushions go under the frame with a large flat washer and the bolt. Two of the cushions and flat washers have a flat cut as they are close to the side of the frame. Flat washer and locknut up on the engine mount toes.
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Once again thanks Bob hopefully I'll have her fired up and moving by Friday or Saturday I'll post some videosYes, the rubber cushions go under the frame with a large flat washer and the bolt. Two of the cushions and flat washers have a flat cut as they are close to the side of the frame. Flat washer and locknut up on the engine mount toes.
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If you have the intake manifold and exhaust system removed, look for an air passage between the intake and exhaust valves that will need to be cleaned.
This area is what is called "the valley of death" as when it is plugged up this area of the engine overheats.
This area is what is called "the valley of death" as when it is plugged up this area of the engine overheats.
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Update got everything back together but she just won't start have good spark with new plugs only thing it's doing I backfiring I 100% know I lined the timing gears up correctly what am I missing hoping I don't have to pull the engine again
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Yes should have led with that this is a full disassembly and reassembly from the block with new rods and pistons I would rule out the ignition system as I do have spark on both plugs however it's possible I installed the trigger ring incorrectly which I've heard could cause similar issues as I'm having not sure if that's accurate or not
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Have you read this section? page 8-2, it does show a way of checking roughly if you're motor is close to the timing points?
Although, it is preset, you can check to see if you're in the range where it should be,, check this out and see if it's close.
You didn't replace the cam shaft or crankshaft? Just had the gears off? Any pictures of the gear positions during assembly?
Although, it is preset, you can check to see if you're in the range where it should be,, check this out and see if it's close.
You didn't replace the cam shaft or crankshaft? Just had the gears off? Any pictures of the gear positions during assembly?
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I did read that looks like I have to pull the engine to do that anyway the crankshaft and camshaft were removed but not replaced and I did not separate the camshaft gear from the cam however
Why. It's more or less just a guard IMO
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After talking to Boomer he pointed out that all it really does is collect dirt and grime thus plugging cooling fins and making it run hotter
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