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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished doing one of my LEAST favorite jobs today; cleaning the under side of my mower deck. 馃槱 I spent 3 or so hours scraping the worse of the build-up with a putty knife and then following up with an HD cup wire wheel in my right angle grinder. I was then going to do what I always do; paint it with a liberal coat of E-Z Slip. I opened the can only to find a 1/4" left in the bottom, so I started to think outside the box; Is there a better way?
What I came up with may be a dumb idea or may be not. What would happen if I lined the CLEAN under side of my deck with some good quality.......DUCK TAPE! When it came time to cleaning up the deck next year, all I would have to do is rip off the old tape and reapply some fresh tape. No fuss, No muss, No little wires from the cup wire wheel sticking in my legs or worse, No breathing in all that grinding dust. I would need to overlap the seams in the right directions so the grass didn't work its way under the tape. That's no big deal, but I don't know how the tape would hold up over the mowing season.
Has anyone tried it? If so, how did it work? Any thoughts or maybe a better idea?
At 78, I'm either getting lazy or just losing my mind. Probably both! [please don't ask my wife] The best Idea would be to sit back, pop open a beer and hire a lawn maintenance company!
 

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Wow. Quite the procedure for you. At the end of the season, I just flip my deck over and clean it with the pressure washer. Total time under 5 minutes [thats both sides]. Let it dry a bit and spray it with used hydraulic oil and put it away.
 

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Wow. I've NEVER cleaned under my deck. I've knocked off a few grass-sickles when I'm sharpening or replacing blades. But I think of it like a cast iron skillet: it's not SUPPOSED to be bare metal clean.

I must be doing it wrong.
 

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If you diligently cut the grass when it is dry, then build up is a non-issue.

If you cut wet grass, it will accumulate on the underside of the deck. You've got an interesting idea, which I have never heard anyone do before. Can't say if it will succeed ...

Brian
 

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Mowing dry grass keeps it clean. Wet, stuck grass promotes rust.

I expect the tape will abrade fairly quickly, but give it a go if like.
 

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It's an interesting idea, but if it doesn't stick, you'll have a mess to clean up in your lawn or spindles to unwind
 

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The tape would be fine so long as you use some stronger stuff like gorilla tape or something of that nature. The issue I could see is the adhesive drying out and bonding to the underside of your mower deck then be next to impossible to remove. Given the heat cycling the deck should see it would probably make it worse.
 

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Any covering you put on steel that isn't PERFECTLY rust free only incubates the rust. Sandblasting or acid dipping is the only way to ensure this on a imperfect surface of old steel. Oil and its cousins, have the unique ability to soak into corroded metal and drive out oxygen that causes rust.
 

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I don't really see the point of the tape. If you want to deal with some of the rust just give it an ospho treatment and then a layer of good quality spray paint. Will last a lot longer and provide better protection than any tape.
 

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Hi troops,
1,000 plus hours on an N46 deck and about the same time on an RM48 deck from 1996 thru 2010. I have found that these decks accumulate less grass buildup than any other machines that I have operated or serviced and they are the easiest to to remove and reinstall. I now have 1,500 hours on my Scag Tiger Cub which is a bear to remove the deck from but fortunately I have a pit in my garage so I can clean the deck without having to remove it. Still difficult to clean as I have had rotor cuff surgery in both shoulders, but I manage!
As for duct tape on the underside of the deck, the grit blast removes the paint in certain places so I don't think that the tape would last very long!:cool:
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Penth have you tried this graphite paint in the past? I'm curious how well it works?

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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The only uses I鈥檝e had with good results is on my vintage automobiles and a weedwhacker.
If you sand the hell out of the surface and lay a thin coat to cure then 3 coats, it will work as intended.
As with anything鈥 Prep is the key to the final result. I mean sand n roughen up. Even a wire brush is not good enough.
 

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Lots of reports of user experience with the graphite paint over at tbn and mtf. Most say it requires periodic application. Like once a month. One says he only did it once a year and it was fine. Ymmv.


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Prep. Prep. Prep.
wire brush and spray n it鈥檚 gonna flake off. The stuff is thin to begin with.
sand or sandblast and paint, lite sand paint. 3 times after initial cure coat n it鈥檒l stay.
 

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I applied EZ Slide on my N46 deck over a layer of POR-15. When I removed the deck for a mid-summer inspection and cleaning, a few large flakes of the EZ Slide came off with the grass (the POR-15 remained intact). Perhaps it鈥檚 meant to be an ablative paint but I was surprised that it was coming off only a few months after being applied (and a few weeks of cure time).
 

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I used POR15 years ago on a partially rusty Jeep frame years ago. It held up well where there was actually rust for it to convert. Where there was no rust (not treated) or at the edges of the POR, it kept rusting so I had to reapply it every few years as the frame continued to rust in the non-POR sections. Maybe I should have waited til the whole thing was rusted before treating it :) .

Everything I have read and/or studied led me to leave the deck uncoated and just clean it at end of season (or during if forced to mow wet grass) before winter storage.
I wire brush and re-paint it every two-three years.

Willy

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Got her all painted up with EZ Slide after cleaning it up with my right angle grinder and a HD cup wire wheel.
After I let it dry, I'll try a small strip of duck tape and see how it holds up. Unlike others, I've never had a problem with the paint pealing off. I can't say why.
FYI: Note my deck mods. Roller instead of wheels, Front SS baffle to eliminate the the sharp corners plus it hangs about 3/4" lower than the from of the deck so the grass doesn't blow out the front. Also note the 2 additions to the left of the left spindle that helps with the air/grass flow.
I was raised on a farm so no, I do not mow when the grass is damp much less wet. I think that in the spring here in northern Illinois, thick Fine Fescue and Kentucky Blue grass has a lot of moister inside the blades themselves. Not much can be done about that.
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And now on to another idea. Speeding up the blades by adding a 4.5" pulley on top of the original 5" pulley with a custom spacer between them so it stays centered and secure. I now have a 2 speed deck! I know, I know, I could of just bought a new center pulley/shaft intended for a 38" deck, but I need the two pulley set up to drive my former Hydra vac which, after a minor operation, is now a belt driven vac. 馃槚 Which I might add, after 5 years, she has worked flawlessly without any trouble/break downs or leaks. (y)
Also note on the right upper corner of the picture my custom deck height adjustment which now gives me 10 positions to choose from compared to the original 5.
 
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