[notelvis]

It's been a while... nice to be back.

I have a 646 that has been robbed of the lift cylinder. Honestly I don't have an immediate need (might build a 3 point someday) so I'd like to cap/plug the ports at the valve... The lines and lever are missing too so there's little danger of the valve moving.

The previous owner had put some female caps on the fitting but that do drip a bit.

What would you guys use to cap off those ports?

I'm about to pull the valve and attempt to rebuild so now feels like a good time to fix the leak.

I have downloaded and read the valve service manual from the technical library here and have the general idea of what I'm doing once it's out. Still there are a few questions

Can I use any orings in the rebuild? Do they have to be special ordered case or can I just use off the shelf rings from napa or a hydraulics shop?

Does anyone have any tips or advice for removing the valve? I'm planning on following the steps: Drain, Remove Linkage, Remove lines, Remove valve. Any avoidable gotchas along the way?

 

[Hydriv]

In my opinion, you have the sequence of events mapped out properly and you have the wisdom contained in the service manual available to you. Case used valves from several manufacturers so if I were you, I'd take it apart first. Then, I would take the valve body, the spools and the O-rings to a local hydraulics shop so they can match them up for you. It sounds to me as though you have the wrong caps on those port fittings because they should not leak if they are correct. Again, discuss this with the shop guys because your only other alternative would be to have a bypass hose made up that would loop from port to port.

It's not a fun job to extract those valve and you may have to buy a few unusual open-end wrenches with weird offsets to get on the tubing fittings or custom bend some by applying heat and a good bench vice.

 

[Bart]

Once you get the valve out of the tractor it will be easy to remove the JIC adapters from the lift circuit and simply install plugs in the holes. If you intend to use that circuit in the future you could just install JIC caps until you are ready to use it.

 

[notelvis]

you said: "you have the wisdom contained in the service manual available to you"

Perhaps I'm dumb but I have yet to find a service manual for a 646-77 SN 9745017.... I did see some parts manuals and some sub system stuff but I never seem to find what I am looking for....

Today I was looking for info on the front axle pivot.... Found the breakdown of everything south of the pivot but nothing on the pivot itself....
Then I was trying to find out if the engine is supposed to be mounted directly to the frame or if there is typically some sort of rubber bushing/bumpers and the diagrams didn't really show the mounting bolts....

I'm generally a good reader what am I missing.

 

[Hydriv]

What you MIGHT be missing is that all of the 200, 400 and 600 models share a lot of items in their build. Therefore, the Service Bulletin for the hydraulic pumps covers all of the models. Same with the trans-axles, steering, motors, valves and so forth. In other words, there is no need for a specific Service Manual for the 646-77. Go to "Service Manuals" in the Tech Library and then select "Hydraulics". There is at least one manual there that covers the travel/lift valve. Others show how the oil flows through the system in several different ways depending upon the optional equipment


Onan engines are hard bolted directly to the frame but have a rubber puck on the underside of the frame member to provide a little bit of give when the frame twists while traversing rough ground. I'm pretty sure that the parts book for your model is in the library and much can be learned by studying those.