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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a 14hp Kohler rebuilt this past spring. It has since developed a valve knock. I plan on checking a resetting the valve gap this spring. I have feeler gauges but they kinda wide. Should I use pin gauges? Suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They are about 3/8ths. But doesn't it have to go between the valve and valve seat? Seems it would be hard to use on the circular hole. This is all new to me so I want to be ready when I get to doing this.
 

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Valve clearance is set by removing the crankcase breather assy. and measuring between the end of the valve stem and the adjuster on the lifter. The procedure is in in the Kohler manual. The width of your gauges is fine. I have found the long feeler gauge is easier to use than the typical short ones. While you are in there, check the adjusters for wear at the point where the valve stem meets it. If it has developed a divot in the adjuster, that must be corrected first to get an accurate measurement.
 

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Just curious, not knowing your location and the prevailing temps in your area, what oil do you have in your engine? I did the 5 hour break-in using non-detergent 30w, then after, have put in 15w-40. Before everyone gets all in an uproar about using different oil than the book states, I have contacted Kohler about using that oil and was told is it ok to use it. If it is below freezing in your area, you may not be getting good oil distribution if using straight 30w oil. Also, have you retorqued the head as the service manual states?
 

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Billygoat said:
Just curious, not knowing your location and the prevailing temps in your area, what oil do you have in your engine? I did the 5 hour break-in using non-detergent 30w, then after, have put in 15w-40. Before everyone gets all in an uproar about using different oil than the book states, I have contacted Kohler about using that oil and was told is it ok to use it. If it is below freezing in your area, you may not be getting good oil distribution if using straight 30w oil. Also, have you retorqued the head as the service manual states?
On a splash lube engine you will blow it out with 30W and 0 degrees
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Billygoat. Thanks for the info. I have downloaded the guide and will use it when I do my check. No I have not retorqued the head bolts. Guess the number is in the manual to. Actually I think I saw it in another post. Right now I have 30W in it. Wasn't planing on useing it this winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Proper tool for setting the valve gap. Updated.

Head bolt retorque simple. I was able to tighten a couple nuts a little. Checking the valve gap was simple also. When you know where to chck it from. Started it up and I still have a rod slap or something going on inside the engine. 10w40 in it right now. I may have to pull it and bring it back to the guy who rebuilt it. The motor backfired a couple times and it started after that. I have it all adjusted and it runs fine,,,,except for that anoying knock. Maybe something loose inside?????
 
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