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With using two transaxles powered from one pump. (From the pump to one motor, out of that motor into the second motor) If the stock pump is used, is travel speed cut in half?
Motor speed is related to the GPM of oil pushed through it. By putting the two motors in series, they both see the exact same GPM. If you put them in parallel, then the flow would be divided between the two of them. In that configuration, each motor would see only half of the pump output and max ground speed would be cut in half.bob_hefley said:With using two transaxles powered from one pump. (From the pump to one motor, out of that motor into the second motor) If the stock pump is used, is travel speed cut in half?
And note, putting them in parallel would likely cut your enjoyment by another 3/4, as doing so will only provide oil to the wheel that will slip the easiest as the oil takes the easier route thru the system. So, drive motors must be connected in series to actually work.Hydriv said:If you put them in parallel, then the flow would be divided between the two of them. In that configuration, each motor would see only half of the pump output and max ground speed would be cut in half.
Thanks Boomer, Now I'll have to try to dig out the torque ratings of those diesels. I think torque ratings are the thing to look at rather than HP when looking at it from a diesel perspective.boomers_influence said:grummy
my spec. chart shows approx. 31 lb. ft. torque.
boomer
In order to answer your question, I need to set some parameters.whlpny said:Sounds like your question has been answered - groundspeed is unchanged. Now I have a question- In stock form- do the 200 and 400 series tractors have the same ground speed? Where do the differences lie- in the ring gear or the hyd motor output? I am contemplating a new project and need info!
I don't think that is a good idea, it will be much more complicated trying to get the proper balance in the flow rates for the front and rear drives. If you use matched transaxles and motors for the front and back you just connect the two motors in series and everything will work correctly. To do what you are thinking about you would need a flow divider downstream of the front axle motor to precisely reduce the proportion of flow delivered to the rear axle.whlpny said:A future build plan is something that resembles a compact 4wd. I want 8-16 tires in the rear, and 6-12's on the front. Just trying to comeup with correct driven speeds so everything works together.
Bart.Bart said:I don't think that is a good idea, it will be much more complicated trying to get the proper balance in the flow rates for the front and rear drives. If you use matched transaxles and motors for the front and back you just connect the two motors in series and everything will work correctly. To do what you are thinking about you would need a flow divider downstream of the front axle motor to precisely reduce the proportion of flow delivered to the rear axle.whlpny said:A future build plan is something that resembles a compact 4wd. I want 8-16 tires in the rear, and 6-12's on the front. Just trying to comeup with correct driven speeds so everything works together.
Have you ever looked at a front axle from a 7020 4wd loader? They use an axle beam made from VERY heavy plate steel with Hilliard components driving the wheels. It may be easier to copy their design using some used ATV CV shafts with heavier homebrew steering knuckles. OR adapt steering knuckles with unitized spindle bearing hubs from a FWD car with shortened CV shafts and mount it all on an axle beam cut from plate with a plasma cutter. The diff could be anything small with a useable ratio. Just throwing ideas around, Johnwhlpny said:Yup- Case front axle- LOTS of machining!! Stay tuned- when I find what I'm after I will show ya!
If you're going to do that, then might as well go for the big guns and build a miniature of one of these....Hydriv said:No point going half-way on this project..
Do both axles and make it so it will crab steer, synchro-steer or just front steer.