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Questions about rebuilding starter generator 1974 Case 444

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741 views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  D. McQuaid  
#1 ·
Hi all,
I'm rebuilding the starter generator on my 1974 Case 444 it's a Delco-Remy 1101875. It hadn't been charging for a little while, and while puling a fertilizer spreader the other day, I happened to look down and saw the end of the shaft wobbling away. After getting back to the shop I found the dust cap that had fallen off, and nothing was supporting the shaft. I disassembled it today, and found some issues. First of all, there should have been a bearing in there, but there wasn't. The front bearing by the pulley is a 6203RS and fits the shaft nicely, and has an ID of about .665". The rear shaft that was wobbling unsupported is only .558", way too small the fit the bearing. Is there a sleeve or bushing that I'm missing, or is there a different size bearing that it takes? This is definitely a 2 bearing unit, as I can see where the missing bearing used to be. Also I noticed that the wire to the "F" terminal is broken, what is the best way to re-attach that. Thanks in advance for any help.
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#3 ·
The 1101875 Delco-Remy starter generator was supplied with an aluminum end plate with a bushing. I can see that yours has the cast iron end plate with a roller bearing so it has probably been upgraded by a rebuilder at some point previously. I apologize that I do not have a bearing number for you, only a Case/Ingersoll part number, current price is $15.24.

Bob
www.casegardentractorparts.com

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#4 ·
The 1101875 Delco-Remy starter generator was supplied with an aluminum end plate with a bushing. I can see that yours has the cast iron end plate with a roller bearing so it has probably been upgraded by a rebuilder at some point previously. I apologize that I do not have a bearing number for you, only a Case/Ingersoll part number, current price is $15.24.

Bob
www.casegardentractorparts.com

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Thank you Bob, but I think I would still have to make or buy a bushing to make up the difference between the shaft diameter of .558" and the ID of the bearing at .665. The problem is when I lost the dust cap, I have no idea of what if any other parts were is there before they "offloaded"
 
#6 ·
Hi Bob, that would be most helpful, thank you. The ID of the bearing would have to be 14mm. I do think a bushing that takes it from 14mm to 17mm would work as well, but I'm not really set up to make one. Plus I think a bearing with no bushing would lead to a much better result. Thanks again.
 
#7 ·
The rebuild kit for it is readily available. It will include the ball bearing for the drive end and the oil-lite bushing for the tail along with new brushes. The problem will be the wear in the end of the shaft and since you discovered the bushing missing, possible damage to armature and the fields/poles. If you can find some one who has a growler, I would have the armature tested for possible shorts.

Here is an example of what you'll need..


Or this one if you have the big bearing end shell....

 
#9 ·
OK guys, here's an update, I tore into the old starter generator, and D. McQuaid was correct the armature and the insides were tore up from the end bushing removing itself. I did order a new starter generator, and it works like a charm, turns the engine over more quickly, and my generator light is now out. Now it has a new issue, it charges too well, it's putting between 15-17 volts into the battery when I measure across the battery terminals with a multi-meter with the engine running. Any thoughts about what to check on that? The voltage regulator is the easy one, but I'd like to confirm that's the problem, before I throw money at it. Two things I'm going to try to begin with is changing out the battery with another known good one, and making sure the voltage regulator is grounded to the chassis. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Thank-you
 
#10 ·
Make sure all connections are good. Inspect the regulator for a proper ground and the voltage drop on the ground from the regulator to the generator is less than 100mv under load.

The regulator is mounted in rubber from the main body to the mounting pad (most times) There is a ground lead that electrically connects the 2 and often fails.

Inspect the under side of the regulator for a shorted/broken resistor.

Adjusting the regulator can be a bit tricky. Unlike an alternator (which is voltage regulated), a generator is current regulated. The regulator can be a 3 unit, 2 unit (relays/cutout) or is can be solid state. You'll have to figure out what regulator you have (which BTW, should have been replaced at the same time as the generator) and then look at how you adjust it. Some have adjustment screws, some you have to bend a tang for the contact arm spring, some have an adjustable rheostat. Hopefully you can see the part number for the regulator to make it easier on how adjust.
 
#11 ·
I tore it apart this afternoon, and think that I have found the problem. One of the rubber mounts on the inside is broken allowing it to move freely with vibration. There appears to be no internal arcing that I can see. As you stated, I will need to find the proper one, as there are no markings on this one, and it is clearly not original. Thanks for the help.
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#13 · (Edited)
I tore it apart this afternoon, and think that I have found the problem. One of the rubber mounts on the inside is broken allowing it to move freely with vibration. There appears to be no internal arcing that I can see. As you stated, I will need to find the proper one, as there are no markings on this one, and it is clearly not original. Thanks for the help. View attachment 134401 View attachment 134402 View attachment 134403
Here is a nice 4 part play list covering the Kohler starter/generators how they work, diagnosis and adjustments...