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Which way to cut grass, hi or low gear?

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I'm happy to have found this place. After a quick go-thru, I see that there is a really great camaraderie here, which makes for a great forum.
I have a 226 that I just picked up. I cut the grass with it twice and am impressed with the way it cuts, feels, and handles.
(Although my left turn radius is bigger than the right radius)
In the operator manual, it states to cut in low gear? I've used hi gear and it seems to work fine (fast as well) Whats right? I imagine cutting in low gear might be easier on the engine...but cutting in hi doesn't seem to affect the engine from what I can tell.
Opinions?

Thanks,
Andy
 

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If you cut in high, make sure the deck is in the float position (look at pivot on right end link).
The lift tab should be positioned to allow the deck to float on its own.
If not you will get cylinder leaking, and possible damage to the lift cylinder.

This is covered in the manual, so if you are already doing it...
good work you read your manual! :clap:
 

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If you have a smooth level lawn and the grass isn't too heavy then you can get away mowing in hi range. My lawn property has a lot of rolling hills and maintaining a constant speed in hi range is difficult so I always mow in lo range as recommended in the manual. In addition, if you have a thick lush lawn then the quality of cut will diminish if your travel speed is too high. You won't damage the tractor mowing in hi unless the engine starts lugging too much.

No matter what range you use it is important to operate the engine at full throttle to maintain proper engine cooling and to keep the blades spinning at the speed required for a clean cut.
 

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Bart said:
the quality of cut will diminish if your travel speed is too high. No matter what range you use it is important to operate the engine at full throttle to maintain proper engine cooling and to keep the blades spinning at the speed required for a clean cut.
I'll second that. High range is when the lawn needs to get whacked back, so it wont clump next cutting but I do not have the time to do it right.
 

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Your turning radius is designed that way. Your deck discharges on the left, so the turning radius to the right is tighter - for going around trees, etc. If you continue to mow with it, it will become second nature.
 

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Bart said:
My lawn property has a lot of rolling hills and maintaining a constant speed in hi range is difficult so I always mow in lo range as recommended in the manual. In addition, if you have a thick lush lawn then the quality of cut will diminish if your travel speed is too high.
That's the only reason I mow in low. My lawn is very hilly and I don't have a holding valve. I'd prefer to remain out of the emergency room where my wife works. :sidelaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
screamineagle66 said:
Your turning radius is designed that way. Your deck discharges on the left, so the turning radius to the right is tighter - for going around trees, etc. If you continue to mow with it, it will become second nature.
Except my deck discharges to the rear. (which I REALLY like)
 

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old abe said:
If you cut in high, make sure the deck is in the float position (look at pivot on right end link).
The lift tab should be positioned to allow the deck to float on its own.
If not you will get cylinder leaking, and possible damage to the lift cylinder.

This is covered in the manual, so if you are already doing it...
good work you read your manual! :clap:
Yes & No, correct in that you want the rockshaft pins positioned in the center of the lift links to prevent the cylinder pumping/ leaking. As I read it, you do not use the float position, instead you place the pins in the middle of the slot and return the lever to neutral
 

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99flhr said:
old abe said:
If you cut in high, make sure the deck is in the float position (look at pivot on right end link).
The lift tab should be positioned to allow the deck to float on its own.
If not you will get cylinder leaking, and possible damage to the lift cylinder.

This is covered in the manual, so if you are already doing it...
good work you read your manual! :clap:
Yes & No, correct in that you want the rockshaft pins positioned in the center of the lift links to prevent the cylinder pumping/ leaking. As I read it, you do not use the float position, instead you place the pins in the middle of the slot and return the lever to neutral
You two guys are on the same page but your choice of language is the problem.
 

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akino said:
screamineagle66 said:
Your turning radius is designed that way. Your deck discharges on the left, so the turning radius to the right is tighter - for going around trees, etc. If you continue to mow with it, it will become second nature.
Except my deck discharges to the rear. (which I REALLY like)
Mine does too, I find it really handy e.g. I used to cut around a field so my nan could walk the dog around it and the cut grass looked very tidy not chucked into the hedge or into the long grass :). Only downside I have found is mowing long grass well going backwards because it just cuts up the cut grass and the 14hp kohler doesn't like that
 

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akino said:
Hi all,
I'm happy to have found this place. After a quick go-thru, I see that there is a really great camaraderie here, which makes for a great forum.

Thanks,
Andy
Andy: Would like to welcome you to the group, we're glad you joined. :usa: :usa: :usa: This is a great forum. We have a good time here and learn a lot. I have a 224 I love to mow with. I cut in low. Congratulations on the 226. Please share some pics when you have a chance. :thumbsup:
:222: :446: Best Regards, Rich
 

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When the steering is properly adjusted there is equal steering both left and right. If the axle is bent then a correct steering adjustment cannot be made until the axle is either straightened or replaced. I know that 400/4000 series front axles can get bent but I'm not sure if this happens on 200/3000 series tractors. I have straightened several 400 series axles and replaced several severely bent ones. This is the cast steel piece that the steering spindles are mounted into. There is a manual here for steering adjustments. Making these adjustments per the service manual brings new feeling to these tractors. Many times I have found the rod ends very sloppy and the front wheel bearings in so bad condition that the front wheels flop around. Check out these items and the manual steering service manual.
Bob MacGregor in CT :mrgreen: :mowlawn:
 

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akino said:
screamineagle66 said:
Your turning radius is designed that way. Your deck discharges on the left, so the turning radius to the right is tighter - for going around trees, etc. If you continue to mow with it, it will become second nature.
Except my deck discharges to the rear. (which I REALLY like)
It's still the same answer - you only have so much steering travel. You can adjust it so that the tractor has equal turning radius in both directions - but if you do that you are taking away from the tight right turn you have now, you will no longer be able to turn as tight. You will turn a little tighter going to the left, but that gain is more or less useless. Leave it the way it is, you will get used to it and appreciate the tight turning for going around obstacles.
 
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