[Hydrogeek]

I would leave that valve where it is. It's perfect for a roto-tiller. Roto-tillers have large speed reduction and relatively low spinning diameter (radius of gyration); so, they have very little inertia. The blower fan, however has a large inertia. I would suggest you use the snow blower motor in single rotation, with the return line continuing to the rest of the system. This means you can't reverse the blower, but will protect from blowing out your shaft seal or cracking your hydraulic motor like I've seen happen to Hydro-Vacs. I suggest you use this flow-control valve to manually ramp up speed ~1sec and ramp down speed ~5sec. You use a second similar valve to control maximum travel speed. You should also add a relief valve to limit system pressure.

Even cheap valves add up, eh!

 

[curtisfox]

Hydrogeek
I am thinking i would still like to use the newer Onan motor, and save the bigger engine for my loader. Could you look up a combo Pump and motor from Surplus center, to use on my blower. Thanks..........Curt

 

[Hydrogeek]

What is the basis for your choice, is it a gut feeling?

 

[curtisfox]

None really except i will have to by a pump for the newer engine anyway, and need of motor. It would leave the big motor all set up for the loader, sorta kill two birds with one stone, that's all...........Curt

 

[Hydrogeek]

I suggest this pump (pls confirm rotation); but there's no reason to use the bigger engine on a GT loader. GT loaders use 5-8HP at the most. The CASE tractive drive can use 12HP at the most. And it's unlikely that you'll use both at the same time. My Case with a loader has a 12HP. I have all the power I need for the bucket. If I try to go up the sharp hill to my house while it high range, the forward motion will stop and the relief will sound; the engine doesn't stall. That proves that less than 12HP is being used by the tractive drive. Whereas a snow blower will use all the HP you can give it. The more HP the more travel speed can be achieved. A 5HP snow may do the job, but a 25HP will do it 5 times faster (more or less). You will be wasting HP on the loader, and have too little for the snow blower.

 

[Gordy]

I suggest this pump (pls confirm rotation); but there's no reason to use the bigger engine on a GT loader. GT loaders use 5-8HP at the most. The CASE tractive drive can use 12HP at the most. And it's unlikely that you'll use both at the same time. My Case with a loader has a 12HP. I have all the power I need for the bucket. If I try to go up the sharp hill to my house while it high range, the forward motion will stop and the relief will sound; the engine doesn't stall. That proves that less than 12HP is being used by the tractive drive. Whereas a snow blower will use all the HP you can give it. The more HP the more travel speed can be achieved. A 5HP snow may do the job, but a 25HP will do it 5 times faster (more or less). You will be wasting HP on the loader, and have too little for the snow blower.

I can confirm that part about the snow blower. I had a AC 912 (12 HP) and a Simplicity 7119 (19 HP) Identical tractors except for, name, paint and HP. The 912 did the job, the 7119 did it faster and tended to throw the snow farther in side by side tests.

:cheers:
Gordy

 

[curtisfox]

Thanks Gordy, do you remember if the gearing were the same, belts and sprockets? I would presume, if made in the same place.

So i will use the big motor on the blower, and the 20 hp on the articulated loader. I was just not sure on the big motor as it come off a JD loader, and some parts are not available any more. I guess if it fails i can get a new bigger one. LOL...........Curt

 

[Gordy]

Thanks Gordy, do you remember if the gearing were the same, belts and sprockets? I would presume, if made in the same place. Curt

The only parts not interchangeable were engine parts. Like a Case 222 vs a 226.

:cheers:
Gordy

 

[curtisfox]

Kool Thanks! I never really understood hydraulics, but learning..........Curt

 

[curtisfox]

Just to let you know i will be gone for 2 months, ( vacation ) also winter is not over yet, so hopefully when i get back can dig out the blower, and get started. Want to check out the blower before ordering a bunch of stuff..........Curt

 

[curtisfox]

WOW! What a summer so far. I got to CA and could not do much everything was shut down stayed with sister in-law for a few weeks helping, then come straight home.
I am back to thinking on this again, had to reread most of this. LOL Old age i guess. I just ordered the motor and coupling, and will be taking the blower apart for new sprockets and bearings motor mount when it gets here. ...........Curt

 

[curtisfox]

Hard to believe 2 days and motor come today, LOL It is big also, so now will get at it some, after camping. Probably not much till after Labor day...........Curt

 

[Hydrogeek]

Can you post picture?

 

[curtisfox]

Can you post picture?

Sent in email.............Curt

 

[Hydrogeek]

It came with coupling and can of coke?
Yep, that's the motor. That port in the middle of the back is the drain. It has to go directly to the tank line. It can be low pressure, even a push on air hose if it terminates near reservoir.

 

[curtisfox]

View attachment 116733

It came with coupling and can of coke?
Yep, that's the motor. That port in the middle of the back is the drain. It has to go directly to the tank line. It can be low pressure, even a push on air hose if it terminates near reservoir.

Thanks didn't know that, Coke was just for size, now gone, drank the hole thing...........Curt

 

[curtisfox]

If its a dedicated snow blowing tractor:

• No need for 3PH. 3PH were designed to allow easy connection to multible implements. I would just use two straight bars to the axle ears and save the 3PH for another tractor.
• No need for hydraulic blower drive. Hydraulics shine in concentrating power where ever you need it, making it convenient to snap on and off a hydraulic mower deck, blower or FEL; but there is an efficiency costs. As a dedicated blower tractor though, you could mount engine directly on blower with short drive connection and belt drive the tractor drive pump (on engine like a PS pump), for maximum power transfer.

I feel like a Dumb Dumb, reread this and seemed to go right over my head at the time. Was out back looking and seen the blower setting there with half the drive shaft sticking out, would of been simple to run a jack shaft to it. Oh well as life goes, have most of the parts now so will continue with the hydraulic drive.......Curt

 

[curtisfox]

Well changed my mind, I sent all the hydro stuff back, and decided to go with direct power with the drive shaft. I am on the hunt for a 1: 15 spline Bolens PTO shaft, see what I can find local, then off to eBay. ........Curt

 

[curtisfox]

Had to go to eBay to get one, they say it should be here on Thursday. Will have to cut and weld on extended shaft for longer to go back to the motor..........Curt

 

[curtisfox]

Just though I would update some picture of widening my wheels to 10.5 wide for for the Rat blower tractor, cut off disk at real slow speed in the lath..........Curt

Old eyes not the best weld