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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Troops,
Check out the pics and you will see that the rear bucket pivot rod was in nasty condition. Finally got around to replacing it, but had to cut it on both sides as it refused to move in the bucket arms. Started the engine and pushed the bucket down and pulled the old rod out. The pieces in the arms refused to move so I have drilled the center on the R/H side to 1/2" in order to get a hacksaw blade in and cut the rod to relieve the stress from the rust and got it out. Tomorrow I will step drill the L/H side and do the same. Not sure if I'm going to drill the new rod for the 1/4" spiral pins or drill and tap the center and install a bolt and washer to captivate the rod. :cool:

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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I rebuilt the loader arms on my 646 a few years back. The rod was bent badly and had to be cut in half to remove. I ended up replacing the rod with one that was larger than the original. Collars in the loader arms were removed and new ones were welded in with plates made to strengthen the loader arms. It was a big project and took me a couple of days to complete. I took pics and posted them on this site.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Most [good] loaders today have a thin wall bronze bushing that is pressed into the arms and had grease channels and pockets on the inside. With proper lubrication, can last for thousands of hours and easy enough to replace via the hacksaw method to remove and new ones pulled in with ready rod. Just food for thought if you are rebuilding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got it all back together and greased. This machine had been left outside for most of its life and no maintenance done on it until it came to me. I still need to remove and clean the outer pins and sleeves along with the lower end bolts for the side cylinders, but in time as I have been and will be using this machine. Have already resealed the bucket cylinder, side cylinders may need to be checked for the nut that holds the cups in place. The grease fittings for the rod that I replaced were corroded solid and I replaced them.:cool:
 

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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When I rebuilt mine I did drill holes and installed new grease fittings. I've found with having the 644 lbh I use that tractor more for moving material than the 646 loader. They are always parked inside out of the weather.

Keep the Peace
Harry
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes it sure is faded, the only place with original paint is under the hood which may have been affected by having been outside. I was testing it today and one of the R/H side cylinders hoses blew. Fortunately I had two hoses in stock and replaced both. I also removed the R/H foot rest and rounded the front edge where the hose had been chafing. All hoses have been replaced except for the one on the rear PTO that has a 90 degree bent tube connected to it. I will order one from Brian and replace it soon. I have done a lot of work on this tractor and getting close to completion. Should the Onan P218, which runs great so far, give me a problem, I will overhaul it rather than go thru the grief of a non standard repower with a V twin!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good morning troops,
I looked up the part number of the last hose that I wanted to replace and it is no longer available, oh well! It is OK I have a lot of work to do using this tractor and peace of mind is having all new high pressure hoses. :cool:
 

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Looking great. Those improvements will make that little loader happy for a long time.

In my case the rod came out clean, but it was worn and beat up. I replaced with some 1045 ground shafting rod. The loader arms were slightly sprung, so I made new, slightly longer collars from cut down cat 1-2 bushings from the farm store. This pushed the arms to where they needed to be.

Did you find a solution to keep the hoses from chaffing on the footrest? Did you just need to relocate them a bit?




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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did relocate the hoses slightly and rounded the front edge of the R/H foot rest to minimize this problem. The new rod is sloppy in the tractor frame sleeves. They are welded on the inside, not sure if I will do anything about them, possibly bore them and press in a bushing at some time in the future. One side is worn more than the other side and as result the L/H bucket arm is closer to the side of the hood than the R/H side, but not making contact with the hood. I would need to ream the sleeves to be able to press in bushings.:cool:
 

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To keep the hoses on my 6018 from chaffing, some heater hose was zip tied around them in the spot where they make contact with the foot rest. The idea came from my log splitter. From the factory it came with the hydraulic hoses wrapped like this anywhere they contact another surface.
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You can see the white zip ties where the hoses cross each other.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Cobydog$10,
Although the hoses appear to not make contact now, I will do the same to these hoses. I had done this several years back, ordered 4 hoses, cut the heater hose off, but only replaced the L/H hoses. I got involved with removing the engine to replace the ignition module, replacing the transaxle housing, replacing the front axle spindle bushings, front wheel bearings and forgot about the R/H hoses. I just went looking for the split heater hoses and I must have tossed them. Oh well, I am 78 and change!! The L/H side hoses have more clearance from the foot plate for some reason. I just recalled that I had the bucket control valve out to replace the O rings and other parts a while back. :cool:
Thank you for reminding me!!
 

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They make "ballistic" nylon sleeves expressly for the purpose of keeping hoses from wearing when they have to slide back and forth through a hanger or loop. Bought by the foot you simply cut to needed length and secure each end with a good quality zip tie.
We had to use that type of material to protect the backhoe hoses on the farm tractor. It worked well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Troops,
I checked into 1" hand reamers and a large reamer handle, big bucks! I don't have any way to chuck up a 1" reamer in a power tool. I will need to make a jig to keep the reamer straight as I turn it as the sleeves in the tractor are worn oval and tapered. Bushings are available, so I may do this at some time in the future, all available at Mc MasterCarr. Meanwhile, this tractor needs to do some work to pay for itself so to speak!!:cool:
Just got a new pair of glasses, now this old goat can see again, amazing!!!! Walk outside and they darken, go back inside and they lighten up!!! I wasn't aware how scratched up the old glasses were.
 
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