[Mjoe7]

I was wondering if anyone has a recommendation of a good person for doing a rebuild on a b43m Onan. I want a very complete and profesional job done. Maybe even soup it up a little for more performance if possible.
Thanks for any help.

 

[bhildret]

A well respected member recommends this source:

Baril Engine Rebuilding, Inc.
996 Centennial St.
Green Bay, Wis.
(800) 236-8212
www.barilengine.com

Also, Boomer may be/likely is doing rebuilds.

Brian

 

[Mjoe7]

Thank you Brian. I've done some basic rebuilds, seals, pistons & rings, but I have never went all out on a rebuild. I would like to do this with this engine. Make it all new again inside. :thumbup:
Mike

 

[boomers_influence]

mike
i could just sell you a brand new B 43 G short block, 1 1/8 crank
and ready for an oil filter.
thank you. boomer

 

[xfolkboat]

Boomer, do you have B48s?

Aaron

 

[Mjoe7]

mike
i could just sell you a brand new B 43 G short block, 1 1/8 crank
and ready for an oil filter.
thank you. boomer

Boomer I will P.M. you on this. thanks.

 

[boomers_influence]

aaron
i DID have one last summer. (B48G) but Grummy got it.
thank you. boomer

 

[Hydriv]

OK... I was giving Boomer first shot.

My next suggestion would be to call Small Engine Warehouse, Tulsa engine warehouse and jacks small engines to see if any of them still have a B43 around. Don't expect to find the Case spec. However, you might run across an oddball engine that has a splined output shaft instead of the smooth shaft. If the price is right, buy it. If your crankshaft is still at zero and can be polished up, then swap out the crank and the oil pan.

Just a thought.

 

[Mjoe7]

Well I went today and talked with Baril Engines in Green Bay today. (holy traffic since the Packers came home today and everyone was going to greet them on their WIN!)
I was very pleased with the place and felt very comfortable with them. They have done high performance Onans also so that could get interesting for me. :wink: and expensive. gulp! :lol:
Thankfully I have many parts already so cost will mainly be the labor and machine work that has to be done.
I'm going to have the complete rotating assembly balanced for smooth running and this should promote longer engine life.

So. If they do a super awesome job with my close to stock rebuild, :wink: I'll have them do a high performance engine for me later to put in my 226 with the wide wheels. This will be fun... 4600 rpm on the snowcaster and 50 ft. lbs. of torque. lol :wink: :lol:

 

[bhildret]

Thanks for the follow up ... please do report back on your experiences with Baril. As I said, I take the recommendation from a well respected member, but they are a long way from me and never done business with them.

Brian

 

[Bart]

I'll have them do a high performance engine for me later to put in my 226 with the wide wheels. This will be fun... 4600 rpm on the snowcaster and 50 ft. lbs. of torque. lol :wink: :lol:

Before you spend a lot of time and money on creating a high performance engine you should understand that you will probably not notice any difference in the tractor except, perhaps, with the snowblower. The amount of power that the engine can transfer to the hydraulic system is limited by the relief valves so the only place you can take advantage of an increase in power is through the front PTO. I would also caution that running at a higher rpm would reduce engine life and likely damage the hydraulic system.

 

[Mjoe7]

I'll have them do a high performance engine for me later to put in my 226 with the wide wheels. This will be fun... 4600 rpm on the snowcaster and 50 ft. lbs. of torque. lol :wink: :lol:

Before you spend a lot of time and money on creating a high performance engine you should understand that you will probably not notice any difference in the tractor except, perhaps, with the snowblower. The amount of power that the engine can transfer to the hydraulic system is limited by the relief valves so the only place you can take advantage of an increase in power is through the front PTO. I would also caution that running at a higher rpm would reduce engine life and likely damage the hydraulic system.

I know Bart. I'm just letting my mind have fun. hehe! :thumbsup:

 

[Mjoe7]

For those who care or are following this thread. :wink: I got the engine dropped off at the machine shop a few weeks ago and they got it all apart and will be installing new .020 over pistons that I provided, new valves, new cam shaft, and new rods. The crank will be reground and the whole rotating assembly is being balanced.
I'm going to go there tomarrow to get some picks for my before and after photo album.

Does anything come to mind that I should ask them about or ask them to do to be sure that everything is being replaced that needs to be and is being correctly installed? I want this engine to be like new or better when it comes back to me. Espeacially since it costs alot to have done and I have another one for rebuilding after this one providing they do a great job.
Thanks;
Mike

 

[Hydriv]

Mike,
I follow all threads on this forum, daily, hourly, minute by minute on some occasions. :lol:

I'm not an engine guru but whatever hours are on the parts you mentioned are also on the main bearings and camshaft bearings. Whenever I rebuilt a small block Chev engine back in my wild and crazy days, the block got all the frost plugs removed before boiling it in a hot tank and then new cam bearings and frost plugs were installed along all new main and rod bearings for the crankshaft.

I'm surprised that so many people who rebuild their air-cooled engines leave the old bearings in place. Yes...they are ball-bearing races but if those lasted forever, then how come we put them in the snow blowers and mowing decks all the time? Sure, they are receiving constant lubrication but an engine is something you use every time you start the tractor. Decks and blowers only get marginal use by comparison. New is new... old is used and perhaps...well-used.

My thoughts.

 

[Stewart]

Bart's Quote
I would also caution that running at a higher rpm would reduce engine life and likely damage the hydraulic system.

What damage on the Hydraulic'S are likely ?

Stewart

 

[Hydriv]

Many pumps have a MAX RPM rating in their specs. Some of those rating disqualify a particular pump from use in these tractors because of the 3600 RPM wide open throttle governing the OPE industry has embraced as a standard.

In addition, geroller style motors also have MAX rating for GPM to prevent over-speeding.

All of the plumbing in the tractors is SIZED for the GPM of the pumps selected. Yes...it is slightly over-sized but that's to keep heat down. If you spin the pump faster, you increase GPM's and that causes more heat.

 

[Mjoe7]

Thank you that gives me some things to bring up when I talk with them to be sure that is what's happening.
I understood from talking to them that I am getting new bearings and the whole sheebang, but it does'nt hurt to be sure. They are also shaving the heads for true flatness and the block. I am confident they seem to know what they are doing with these Onans. I will keep things posted as I find them out. I'm excited since this is the last piece of the puzzle to bring another 1984 446 back to life in like new condition. :thumbsup:

 

[Hydriv]

We look forward to seeing your restoration thread in the other forum whenever you are ready for the big reveal.

 

[Mjoe7]

Well the latest update is all the machine work is done and assembly is next.
They told me it was hard to get cam bearings for the engine, but were fortunate to find some. Not sure why that would be? Any ideas??? Something about Cummins and Onan not liking each other. :eh:
Later;
Mike

 

[boomers_influence]

mike
before they install the cam brgs,
make SURE they are the OLD style,.687 wide,
NOT the new style at .320 wide.
cummins OWNS onan so there should not be a pissing contest.
if anything most dealers do not want to mess with the onan parts.
thank you. boomer