Hi FastEddie and group,
Since Vanguard engines, (14,16 and 18 HP models) were first installed on Ingersoll tractors there have been 2 flywheel/cooling fan/blower housing changes on Vanguard engines. Initially the flywheel and fan was a one piece cast iron part with an aluminum starter ring gear and used a nylon gear on the starter motor. The blower housing on these engines had no ribs pressed into them.
During the mid 2000s, a thicker/heavier flywheel with a separate plastic fan and a steel starter ring gear was installed and this included a deeper blower housing with ribs pressed into the V areas. These engines had a support ring that held the plastic fan onto the flywheel. A steel gear was installed on the starter motor.
Later on probably late 2000s, another change was made to all 16, 18, 21 and 23 HP models. A thicker/heavier flywheel with a shield covering the magnets in the flywheel and a taller plastic fan was installed utilizing a different style support ring to hold the plastic fan in place. A steel ring gear with a different gear teeth configuration and a matching steel gear was installed on the starter motor. Along with these changes a deeper yet blower housing with ribs pressed into the V areas was added.
Each subsequent change to these engines increased the flywheel weight and increased the cooling air flow over the cylinders.
As we don't have parts manuals for the late production 4018, 4021, 4221, 4023 and 4223 models, we don't know what changes Ingersoll did to these tractors to connect the hydraulic pump to these engines.
We do know that the pump shaft and pump adapter on older Vanguard powered Ingersoll tractors will not connect to the newer Vanguard engines. We have been removing the flywheel, blower housing and starter motor from the old engine and using them on newer engines in order to connect the pump shaft and adapter to the flywheel. As the 21 and 23 HP Vanguards are taller than 16 and 18 HP Vanguards, Ingersoll had to raise the front of the hood and change the configuration of the upper heat shield. We also know that the muffler used on 16 and 18 HP engines is NLA. We also know that the muffler used on 21 and 23 HP engines is different from the 16 and 18 and also not available. These mufflers were produced by B&S for Ingersoll and now that Ingersoll is no longer in business, the production of these mufflers has stopped.
I have been installing new 18 HP Vanguards in 14, 16 and 18 HP engine powered Ingersoll 3000 and 4000 series tractors both originally Onan P series and Vanguard powered tractors. I have been buying conversion kits for the Onan powered tractors and base engines for the Vanguard powered tractors using the old flywheel, blower housing and starter motor.
New 16 and 18 Vanguards are in short supply and on back order with many distributers.
At this point, FastEddie is wondering what to do and I fully understand!!!!
There is a 23 HP Vanguard conversion kit available at Small Engine Warehouse that he could actually use but with some minor changes which I will get into for him in my next post!
Part of the problem is that the pump shaft is not long enough to connect to the new Vanguards. The pump adapter would fit the flywheel and hold the plastic fan in place if the shaft was longer.
You could use the SEW 23 Vanguard kit that is setup to replace an Onan in a 4000 Ingersoll by replacing the Vanguard pump adapter on the pump shaft with an Onan Pump adapter and connected to the SEW manufactured installed on the engine in the kit. This will keep the pump in its original position but move the engine forward. As Vanguards are shorter in crankshaft length, the clutch pulley position will still be correct to drive the V belt for attachments. The crankshaft diameter and length on the 23 is the same as an Onan and you would need a new clutch. The kit has a relay so it can be connected to and Onan powered tractor key switch. This relay can be removed and the engine electrical harness will connect to the tractor electrical harness. The front of the hood will need to be raised up to be able to close over the Vanguard engine. The SEW kit has a muffler and heat shield as part of the kit. The SEW kit also has a support bracket on the bottom of the engine that will need to be removed as it is for an Onan powered Ingersoll which has a cut down frame where the engine sits and Vanguard frames don't.
I think at this time you are aware of why I install 18 HP Vanguards and swap the flywheels, blower housings, starter motors and use the same or direct replacement clutches from XtremeOPE!
As the flywheel and associated part changes by B&S are partly directed at increasing the cooling capacity and the 23 Vanguard has an engine oil cooler attached to the blower housing, the demand for more volume of cooling air flow is there.
B&S has done this same process on almost all their larger HP engines. I had to re-power my Scag Tiger Cub in 2012 from and old style B&S 24 vertical shaft to a 30 HP which had the higher volume cooling and an engine oil cooler. No problem with the taller engine as it is a vertical shaft engine with no hood over it. The engine oil cooler takes a lot of cooling air flow away from the engine and the reason for additional cooling air flow. An engine oil cooler is an option on horizontal 18 Vanguards and standard on 23s.
An Ingersoll with power steering is different in that the pump shaft is 3/4" and non PS tractors have a 1/2" pump shaft.
This re-power is a sizable investment. All of the folks that I have don re-powers for have been briefed by me as to the cost and the only pay back is a relatively trouble free running machine with and engine warranty of 2 to 3 years providing OEM filters and recommended lube oil has been used and documented.
The reason why a horizontal 23 Vanguard is taller than an 18 is due to the 23 having a side draft 2 barrel carb fed from a single fuel bowl where the 18 has a single barrel downdraft carb.
V twins have a primary cylinder and a secondary cylinder by virtue of design. On higher HP models, the fuel metering is different between cylinders and the secondary cylinder doesn't need as rich of fuel mixture as the primary cylinder and the reason for the 2 barrel carb. I still have the new style flywheel, blower housing, fan and starter motor from the last re-power and I can take pics of these parts and post them here tomorrow.
Most times that a shaft such as a crankshaft on an engine has a reduced size, the turning is radiused to avoid breakage at that spot. This is the reason that a double chamfered spacer needs to be installed onto the shaft. When an item like a clutch is installed onto a crankshaft, it would get bound onto the radiused area and be near to impossible to remove once it is tightened. The spacer goes on then the key is put in place, then the clutch is installed with a washer on a bolt. I put a thin coat of anti-seize compound on the crankshaft before installing the clutch.
Here are some pics of a new 4023 or 4223 that I took years ago at a local Ingersoll dealer. The clutch on this engine is a Warner 5215-42 which is C47447. Ingersoll has a replacement kit for this clutch which is C48626. When used on a 23 Vanguard, an anti-torque bracket is needed. This tractor was from the last production from Ingersoll when it was in Wisconsin so it is mid to late 2000 model year.
Allow me to clear up some of your concerns. All small engine manufacturers measure the overall crankshaft length on the PTO end from a standard point on the engine, usually the boss around the crankshaft seal. The reduced length of the shaft is always shorter but never specified. For example, the Onan P series engine, spec # 10904 shows the crankshaft length as 3.95", but the cut down length is less than 3.5" and accepts all recommended electric clutches. A spacer washer is always mandatory, the one usually found on these engines is the one that is .250" thick. There are other spacers available in .100" and .050". I have never seen any of the thinner ones on any engine that I have done service work on.
As for your concern with SEW, they make money with engine sales and not the individual parts of a re-power kit. After they have done the research and decided what will make the kit work, they have to outsource the crankshaft adaptors, the mufflers and heat shields as these parts are not produced in any quantity as there is very little demand for them in the small engine/compact tractor world. I know of some folks that have had mufflers fabricated and paid up to $400 for one muffler!
As I always find other areas that need attention following an engine removal, I do this:
Drain the hydraulic system. Drain the fuel system. Remove the battery and hyd oil tank. This exposes this area for better inspection and servicing.
On 3000 and 4000 series tractors, I remove the hyd oil cooler, clean and inspect, remove the pump, clean and inspect. I usually replace all the low pressure hoses and most times the pump high pressure output hose. There are nipples on the bottom of the oil tank that can get distorted from heat. There are steel sleeves available that can be pushed into the plastic nipples for added support.
The steering shaft lower bushing and travel lever lower bushing can easily be replaced at this time if needed. The travel lever lower bushing was originally made of nylon and wears in an oval. The replacement for this bushing is a bronze bushing. I almost always replace this bushing which reduces the slop in the travel lever action. I drop the steering sector gear down, clean and inspect and if worn, replace it and do a steering system adjustment. The engagement of the sector gear to the small gear on the steering shaft is adjustable. While in this area, I inspect the electrical wiring and usually find the connectors on the rear of the key switch and PTO switch to have corrosion. I cut the plastic connector off the key switch harness and crimp on spade connectors. Many times I have to replace both the key switch and PTO switch. While I'm at it, I remove the seat, rear fenders and fuel tank, clean, inspect and replace the fuel hose. I leave the hose longer so I can run it under the frame leaving enough slack in the hose for future servicing. Many times I need to do repairs to the fitting on the bottom of the fuel tank or replace it. Sometimes the female thread on the bottom of the tank is split. I have a repair that I do to these tanks.
All these areas addressed, I reinstall the engine after cleaning and inspecting it. Most engines need to be cleaned and decarbed. A new engine doesn't.
If you are serious about a re-power with a 23 Vanguard, let me know andI will talk you thru it!
A few more comments:
Behind what you are calling a brass washer is not a steel bushing, it is the crankshaft. The area from the rear of the 'brass washer' is turned down to a specific diameter and length for clutch or coupling installations.
The 'brass washer' is a steel double chamfered spacer plated with gold colored cadmium.
All or the vast majority of electric clutch/brakes are directionally sensitive. The direction of a clutch is as you look at the pulley side. The clutch on your 16 Vanguard is CCW as the pulley is away from the engine. In the situation of your possible re-power with a 23 Vanguard, the clutch is CW as the pulley is close to the engine. The only position for a C47447 clutch is backwards or pulley close to the engine as it is a CW rotation clutch.
Looking at the pic of the shaft with a magnifying glass, it does appear to be a steel spacer with a brass washer being held in place with black tape. I don't see the lip of the crank seal.
The surface of the spacer isn't polished or smooth enough for a seal to ride on. These parts may very well be part of the kit.
As the aluminum spacer on the flywheel is machined to fit an Onan pump drive adaptor, you will need one to put onto the pump shaft in place of the Briggs pump drive adaptor. As the Onan pump adaptor centers onto the aluminum spacer, this will keep the correct centered alignment for the pump. The bore of the Onan pump drive adaptor will allow you some forward or aft movement on the pump shaft to better align the engine for clutch pulley/V belt alignment to the mower mule drive pulleys. This will place the engine forward on the tractor frame from the original engine. The hood will need to be raised up at the hinge and a hole will need to be cut in the R/H side of the hood for the tailpipe on the muffler. In the pics that I have of 4023, 4223 model tractors, there is a hole cut in the side of the hood for the tailpipe. This is just like the older Onan powered 3000 and 4000 series tractors. I recommend that the heat shield in the hood be shortened so that it overlaps the top piece of the muffler heat shield when the hood is closed. This will give added heat protection for the head lights. You should be able to reuse the choke and throttle cables providing they are still serviceable. You may need to drill new holes in the frame for the engine mounting bolts. As for clutches, there is GEN3, Extremeope, Warner and Ingersoll by Warner.
A few suggestions:
You will need to remove the blower housing to be able to remove the debris screen to cut a hole in it to fit around the aluminum adapter. Cut the hole a little smaller and bend the edge inward toward the flywheel. Fill the engine with 5W-30 regular engine oil, with a drill and a socket the size of the flywheel nut, the spark plugs removed and spark testers on the wires, crank the engine clockwise to prime the engine with oil. I recommend that you use regular engine (not synthetic) oil for the first 50 hours to allow the rings to seat and the engine 'coke up'. After 50 hours you may use full synthetic engine oil from then on. The anti-torque arm on the hydraulic pump has a cushion mounted to it which may also have a stud that connects to the tractor. If the cushion has this extra stud, cut it off or replace the cushion with a new one with a single stud. This will allow the pump to seek its own position against the tractor frame. See if the muffler from the 16 lines up with the exhaust ports on the 23 and let me know. Meanwhile, if the muffler from the 16 is still serviceable, there may be someone that could use it as they are no longer available.
On the oil filter housing on the 23 is a pressure switch. This can be used as a low oil pressure shutdown or connected to a low oil pressure indicator light on the panel. I have been adding a light on the panel for this purpose. You will need to fabricate a cowl to close up the gap between the blower housing and the plate on the front of the hyd oil tank otherwise the hyd oil cooler will not get sufficient air flow to cool the oil particularly if you operate any attachments off the rear hydraulic PTO.
When you do the final installation of the clutch, remove the spacer, apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound the the crankshaft, slip the spacer and washer back on and reapply a thin coat to the crankshaft. This will make removing the clutch if needed in the future a much easier job. You can hold the pump drive adapter with an open end wrench, 1 3/8" I think, and torque the pump adapter bolts and the clutch bolt.
You could cut the screen in half and cut the area around the coupling to fit. I do this on stock Vanguard powered tractors. I think that the screen halves will come off the fan and out from under the blower housing. Be careful with the screws that hold the screen to the fan as there are threaded brass inserts in the plastic fan.
You can drill out the spot welds that hold the hood hinge on and make up an extension to raise the front of the hood. you will also need to shorten the heat shield in the hood as the new engine is forward. If I recall, I used 1/8" X 1 1/2" flat bar, maybe 2" and utilized the holes to bolt on the extension.