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Posting some of this for the 3rd time, but I think this will be our home for a real long time and I won't have to do this again.
This is a renovation, not a restoral - the dictionary says to restore is "to bring back to original or normal condition", but to renovate is "to restore to good condition".
I do not know the model number on this snocaster, a PO has spraypainted over what remained of the tag and I've not yet been able to safely remove the paint to read it. I may end up just trying to match it from the parts diagrams. It does NOT have the adjustable auger so that's a good starting point - and it looks like the auger is set pretty pretty close so I don't have to worry about it.
Some prior owner rattle canned this with what looks like no prep work and some cheap paint that is now peeling and is the color of dirty Pepto-Bismol.
It's in pretty rough shape to look at but functions perfectly.
The auger is in decent shape, took me about 10 mins with the big Chanellocks to get it all straight - looks like it hit something once - a little wirebrushing & painting and that will be
good to go. Bearings are good.
But once the auger is out the inside is pretty bad (sorry for the blurry pic).
I've learned that my compressor can't handle a sandblaster unless I want to very frequent breaks, but just found out there's a pro less than a mile down the road, I'm taking this (only) to him tomorrow. It seems the bottom of the back, where it meets the bottom piece the scraper bar mounts to, is not welded full length, and where it isn't welded water got underneath and chewed the edge up pretty bad, I suspect some grinding and filling will be necessary. That's probably the worst of it. I wonder why the factory left that lip?
As bad as it looks, it turns smoothly and easily, and the chain looks almost new and it's well greased.
The scraper bar was replaced not too long ago, and I was pleasantly surprised to see they're reversible - when it wears down you can flip it and use the other side. Nice thinking, Case! But I'll have to weld new bottoms on the shoes.
I took the chute off & apart and cleaned down to bare metal with a twisted wire wheel, no pics yet. Came out looking pretty good. it'll be cleaned & primed along with the other parts once I strip them. I'm putting together a list of parts I know I'll need and I've already contacted Brian Hildreth. Update: got 'em, along with a manual, idler pulley, spring, decal, and other fun stuff.
Has anyone calculated a "final drive ratio" for the auger? Just curious. Update: 3600 RPM engine speed is ~900 RPM auger speed. 4:1 is close enough.
This next part came later:
OK we had a blizzard and it's still not done :sad: My bad.
I had to move to the basement when it got too cold to paint in the garage. I disassembled the entire 'caster except the shaft. The bearings are good and I didn't want to fight with removing the pulley. Took the bucket to a local sandblaster and had it stripped down to bare metal. All the rest - except the auger - I wirebrushed to bare metal. I forget to get pics of all the pieces in the nude :smile: but that mule came out looking like it was chromed! Most of the bolts and screws are being replaced, I also got a new spring, idler pulley, and a few other parts from Brian.
Once that was done I took a grinder to the bucket and ground back the cancer until I hit clean steel. At the bottom center I ended up going all the way through so I tacked a piece of 1/8 flat stock on the back and filled that area with weld. There are 2 other spots at the bottom that I built up also. Ground those down and phosphated the whole thing. There were lots of pits of various sizes, I'd originally planned to use some polyester resin to smooth those out but I was afraid it might not hold up. I am using PC-7 (same as JB Weld but thicker) as a filler. I think it should hold up better than body filler, but it's a lot harder to use - it's really thick and heavy. It'll take a few applications to get it all, here's a pic after the first application:
![]()
I'll sand that down and hit it again. Update:Ended up doing that 3 times, it's still not perfect but should be good enough.
Some parts I took down to bare metal, phosphated, lightly sanded, put on a coat of self-etching primer and then brushed on a coat of aluminum paint. This pic didn't come out great, but if you hold them in your hand they look like new.
![]()
Here's the chute parts and mule after being treated, they'll be lightly sanded - I'm actually using a green Scotch-Brite - then primed and painted.
![]()
Not a whole lot planned for the auger, I'll straighten and smooth out the edges, then lightly wirebrush the whole thing. I'm not removing all the paint, most of it is stuck on very well.
Monday afternoon: Just finished priming, everything is ready for paint except the auger.
![]()
I'll work on the auger tonight. I'd like to get everything painted tomorrow, since it now looks like I may need it on Thursday. :letitsnow:
This is a renovation, not a restoral - the dictionary says to restore is "to bring back to original or normal condition", but to renovate is "to restore to good condition".
I do not know the model number on this snocaster, a PO has spraypainted over what remained of the tag and I've not yet been able to safely remove the paint to read it. I may end up just trying to match it from the parts diagrams. It does NOT have the adjustable auger so that's a good starting point - and it looks like the auger is set pretty pretty close so I don't have to worry about it.
Some prior owner rattle canned this with what looks like no prep work and some cheap paint that is now peeling and is the color of dirty Pepto-Bismol.
It's in pretty rough shape to look at but functions perfectly.
The auger is in decent shape, took me about 10 mins with the big Chanellocks to get it all straight - looks like it hit something once - a little wirebrushing & painting and that will be
good to go. Bearings are good.
But once the auger is out the inside is pretty bad (sorry for the blurry pic).
I've learned that my compressor can't handle a sandblaster unless I want to very frequent breaks, but just found out there's a pro less than a mile down the road, I'm taking this (only) to him tomorrow. It seems the bottom of the back, where it meets the bottom piece the scraper bar mounts to, is not welded full length, and where it isn't welded water got underneath and chewed the edge up pretty bad, I suspect some grinding and filling will be necessary. That's probably the worst of it. I wonder why the factory left that lip?
As bad as it looks, it turns smoothly and easily, and the chain looks almost new and it's well greased.
The scraper bar was replaced not too long ago, and I was pleasantly surprised to see they're reversible - when it wears down you can flip it and use the other side. Nice thinking, Case! But I'll have to weld new bottoms on the shoes.
I took the chute off & apart and cleaned down to bare metal with a twisted wire wheel, no pics yet. Came out looking pretty good. it'll be cleaned & primed along with the other parts once I strip them. I'm putting together a list of parts I know I'll need and I've already contacted Brian Hildreth. Update: got 'em, along with a manual, idler pulley, spring, decal, and other fun stuff.
Has anyone calculated a "final drive ratio" for the auger? Just curious. Update: 3600 RPM engine speed is ~900 RPM auger speed. 4:1 is close enough.
This next part came later:
OK we had a blizzard and it's still not done :sad: My bad.
I had to move to the basement when it got too cold to paint in the garage. I disassembled the entire 'caster except the shaft. The bearings are good and I didn't want to fight with removing the pulley. Took the bucket to a local sandblaster and had it stripped down to bare metal. All the rest - except the auger - I wirebrushed to bare metal. I forget to get pics of all the pieces in the nude :smile: but that mule came out looking like it was chromed! Most of the bolts and screws are being replaced, I also got a new spring, idler pulley, and a few other parts from Brian.
Once that was done I took a grinder to the bucket and ground back the cancer until I hit clean steel. At the bottom center I ended up going all the way through so I tacked a piece of 1/8 flat stock on the back and filled that area with weld. There are 2 other spots at the bottom that I built up also. Ground those down and phosphated the whole thing. There were lots of pits of various sizes, I'd originally planned to use some polyester resin to smooth those out but I was afraid it might not hold up. I am using PC-7 (same as JB Weld but thicker) as a filler. I think it should hold up better than body filler, but it's a lot harder to use - it's really thick and heavy. It'll take a few applications to get it all, here's a pic after the first application:
I'll sand that down and hit it again. Update:Ended up doing that 3 times, it's still not perfect but should be good enough.
Some parts I took down to bare metal, phosphated, lightly sanded, put on a coat of self-etching primer and then brushed on a coat of aluminum paint. This pic didn't come out great, but if you hold them in your hand they look like new.
Here's the chute parts and mule after being treated, they'll be lightly sanded - I'm actually using a green Scotch-Brite - then primed and painted.
Not a whole lot planned for the auger, I'll straighten and smooth out the edges, then lightly wirebrush the whole thing. I'm not removing all the paint, most of it is stuck on very well.
Monday afternoon: Just finished priming, everything is ready for paint except the auger.
I'll work on the auger tonight. I'd like to get everything painted tomorrow, since it now looks like I may need it on Thursday. :letitsnow:
