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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tomorrow is the first day of fall and I do remember that the chain on my snow caster was at full adjustment last winter. So time for a new chain and the possibility of getting a 19 tooth sprocket to increase snow throwing ability. My dedicated snow machine is a 446 with a 20 hp Onan which had a lot of power so the engine should be up to the task. I searched the site for threads on this project and found a few. I'm throwing this topic out there for anyone who has done this sprocket change before and looking for any advice before I dive into the project. Please respond with some pics if you have any on this subject. Thanks in advance.

Keep the Peace ✌
Harry
 

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Very doable and most customers do report improved snowcaster performance when used with the higher HP engines.

These are the parts typically required.

Driveshaft and chain
C46463 } SHAFT 48" snowcaster
C46462 } SHAFT 38" snowcaster

Likely will want driveshaft bearings also:

Pulley if you need it:


Note, pulley orientation is reversed when using the service driveshaft on a 400 series application.

Brian
 

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Harry,
I wish I had pictures to show you, but I don't.
I did this sprocket change to my casters and have never looked back. The only thing I will ask, or say is, your auger itself,, is it true and straight? It must be. The higher turn speeds of the auger does introduce vibration into the caster, if that auger has a slight bend or bow, across the width of the auger. (It's not a difficult repair to fix that, if that's the case. I'd outline that out, but skip it for now.)

The normal sprockets = a somewhat anemic launch of snow.
Enhanced tooths on sprockets = a useful launch of snow.

Take a video, of before change with caster turning. Take another video after change. I suspect, during the 2nd video, once you watch that auger spinning, you'll in-conscientiously step back a bit further from the front of the caster.

Mine is setup with a 16 hp, and I'm happy with how it preforms.
 

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Harry,
This isn't difficult to accomplish. I added my own chain tightener to my casters.

Did it this way, = an always tight chain.
No welding required, all common stuff. See if you can recognize the long bolt to complete the mod? LOL
Hand torch, heat head, and smosh on anvil. Repeat process till you got what you want with slight bend ( 2nd picture)

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1973 Case 444, 1974 Case 644, 1976 Case 446, 1977 Case 646
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lionel I have to get the machine in my shop to start the project and I'll check the auger then. I know it was vibration free with the 16 tooth sprocket, so it should be good. I did see some pics you posted in the archives. Thanks for the heads up.

Keep the Peace ✌
Harry
 

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Please take a lot of pictures. I will be doing my snow caster I never got to last year ( or finish my 448 I started last year😂)
But since I plan on doing a complete overhaul it would be nice to do upgrades at the same time.
 

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Harry,
This isn't difficult to accomplish. I added my own chain tightener to my casters.

Did it this way, = an always tight chain.
No welding required, all common stuff. See if you can recognize the long bolt to complete the mod? LOL
Hand torch, heat head, and smosh on anvil. Repeat process till you got what you want with slight bend ( 2nd picture)

View attachment 127416
View attachment 127417
View attachment 127418
Great looking project and it looks like you have a reasonable adjustment range. Chains are disposable wear items and should be tossed once they "stretch" by 1/8" over 12" of chain (~1%). A tight, out of spec. chain will begin to wear the cogs.
 
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