Some questions about my new 446

654 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by ROCKLAND VALLEY, 14 d ago

Slammer

Discussion Starter · 19 d ago

So I picked up a 1977 446 yesterday, its not the prettiest and was rep'd as being original but it is in fact a repaint but I mostly bought it for the tiller and 3 point hitch which are rare to find up here in Canada it seems. I also had to drive 3 hours to get it. Mower cuts and tiller tills, so it'll do fine on my little homestead.

I have got some questions and will attach some pics. Firstly did case ever use these heim joints on tie rods? its only on one side

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Secondly, will the toe in adjustment in the owners manual fix this left front wheel from being bowed out?

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This 3 point hitch looks like an H26 or J26 from going through the manuals on the ccigt site. Can anyone confirm? Also you may see little d rings low on the transaxle ears that apparently the guy said he used to add little turnbuckles to help support the weight on the hitch, does that make sense?

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Its a j46 and you can see custom wood shims here lmao

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And lastly this little hydraulic valve...I can't figure out what it is while scouring the manuals...seems to be a holding valve? I thought it was to divert lift between the mower deck and the tiller (the hydraulics seems to work weird the mower deck will get raised all the way up and the 3 point will drop the tiller down, when the tiller and 3 pt get raised up then the mower goes right down....kind of annoying and I was hoping this was a selector valve for that issue but it doesn't seem to be. Wondering if its a Case factory valve, because I can't find any pictures or instructions unless I am blind.

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dundee222

· #2 · 19 d ago

The valve is a flow control valve to better allow the tractor to creep when tilling. Factory option and EXTREMELY desirable especially with the factory hard lines. You have J26 3 point and the heims weren't factory to my knowledge but are a common upgrade when the stock ball joints wore out or broke. Looks like you got a really nice machine that looks like a really good candidate for a restore, or just use it as is.

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dhitching

· #3 · 19 d ago

@Slammer the Flow Control Valve you've got there is great for tilling, and pretty uncommon! Helps keep the tiller from pushing the tractor. You set the lever on the dash to full forward and then dial in speed using the flow control valve's lever there.

It sounds like your 3pt hitch and mid-lift cylinder (the deck cylinder) are plumbed opposite of each other. This isn't how Case instructed it to be installed, but it's a good solution that allows you to use the deck with the tiller connected or use the tiller with the deck connected. In the OEM configuration (just the two hoses swapped underneath the tractor from how you have it now) when the deck is all the way down the tiller would be dragging on the ground, so you'd have to drop the tiller to mow. Or you'd be trying to till your garden but you're dragging the deck through the dirt at the same time.

I've never heard of someone tying the 3pt hitch into the rear axle though, that's a new one. The heims on the tie rods are common "upgrades".

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Slammer

Discussion Starter · #4 · 18 d ago

dundee222 said:
The valve is a flow control valve to better allow the tractor to creep when tilling. Factory option and EXTREMELY desirable especially with the factory hard lines. You have J26 3 point and the heims weren't factory to my knowledge but are a common upgrade when the stock ball joints wore out or broke. Looks like you got a really nice machine that looks like a really good candidate for a restore, or just use it as is.

Awesome! when I saw the ad and saw that block I figured it looked factory and had a hunch it was valuable. Thats literally why I bought this tractor. It had way more hoses and lines so I knew it would be more capable than my bare 444. Will a toe-in adjustment fix that left side wheel ya think? or is something bent? everything looks good as far as axle and tie-rod goes.

dhitching said:
@Slammer the Flow Control Valve you've got there is great for tilling, and pretty uncommon! Helps keep the tiller from pushing the tractor. You set the lever on the dash to full forward and then dial in speed using the flow control valve's lever there.

It sounds like your 3pt hitch and mid-lift cylinder (the deck cylinder) are plumbed opposite of each other. This isn't how Case instructed it to be installed, but it's a good solution that allows you to use the deck with the tiller connected or use the tiller with the deck connected. In the OEM configuration (just the two hoses swapped underneath the tractor from how you have it now) when the deck is all the way down the tiller would be dragging on the ground, so you'd have to drop the tiller to mow. Or you'd be trying to till your garden but you're dragging the deck through the dirt at the same time.

I've never heard of someone tying the 3pt hitch into the rear axle though, that's a new one. The heims on the tie rods are common "upgrades".

I wonder if the flow control will work when the tiller is not on? I will have to try. Thank you for that info.

Should I put a heim on the other side as well (its only on the one side) or should I buy a replacement rod and put it back to factory? I have to say, compared to my 444 with a regular tie rod the steering wheel turned super easily. It was like butter when I was testing it out.

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dundee222

· #5 · 18 d ago

Toe in is not giong to affect camber much. You will have to see what is bent and needs straightening. My bet it is the spindle itself and that is an easy fix with a press. The flow control is generally set full open when not needed for tilling or blowing snow. I'd get a matching heim for the other end of the tie rod, and if the ball joints are worn on the drag link get a couple more for it too.

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myerslawnandgarden

· #6 · 18 d ago

The heim style joint that you show in the picture is the current factory supplied replacement for the original C21526/C21527 male-male tie rod ends. That's all that is currently available.

Bob

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Slammer

Discussion Starter · #7 · 18 d ago

dundee222 said:
Toe in is not giong to affect camber much. You will have to see what is bent and needs straightening. My bet it is the spindle itself and that is an easy fix with a press. The flow control is generally set full open when not needed for tilling or blowing snow. I'd get a matching heim for the other end of the tie rod, and if the ball joints are worn on the drag link get a couple more for it too.

Is there a manual for that valve? The lever is kind of floppy and I'd like to see if I can adjust it to stiffen it up some...Never mind I just found the manual and don't see anything about that.

myerslawnandgarden said:
The heim style joint that you show in the picture is the current factory supplied replacement for the original C21526/C21527 male-male tie rod ends. That's all that is currently available.

Bob

Thank you Bob

Slammer

Discussion Starter · #8 · 16 d ago

Here's another question... The hydraulic reservoir mentions to maintain oil level based on the dipstick... But this cap has no dipstick. Ony 444 the oil level is based on inches from the top but this reservoirs filler neck is quite long, and the dipstick is absent... Any ideas?

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Slammer

Discussion Starter · #9 · 16 d ago

Slammer said:
Here's another question... The hydraulic reservoir mentions to maintain oil level based on the dipstick... But this cap has no dipstick. Ony 444 the oil level is based on inches from the top but this reservoirs filler neck is quite long, and the dipstick is absent... Any ideas? View attachment 129444 View attachment 129444

Ok so apparently there is a separate dipstick for the hydraulics...clearly I didn't see it. I will find it tomorrow in the daylight.

If this Onan has no oil filter is there a way I can add one? Talking with a local case enthusiast today he told me the Onans without the filter are the ones notorious for throwing rods...

dundee222

· #10 · 16 d ago

Throwing a rod has nothing to do with a filter, but everything to do with little or no oil in the engine. You caaannn add one, but be SURE your block is internally drilled/machined passages to allow it to function. This is a common upgrade when rebuilding engines especially if you are using a block that originally had one or at least a filter adaptor block off plate. For your engine without a filter following the mfgs recommendations on oil change intrevals is also good practice!

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Slammer

Discussion Starter · #11 · 16 d ago

dundee222 said:
Throwing a rod has nothing to do with a filter, but everything to do with little or no oil in the engine. You caaannn add one, but be SURE your block is internally drilled/machined passages to allow it to function. This is a common upgrade when rebuilding engines especially if you are using a block that originally had one or at least a filter adaptor block off plate. For your engine without a filter following the mfgs recommendations on oil change intrevals is also good practice!

I know a filter doesn't equate to more oil in the engine, but I guess its a bit of an old wives tale that the early Onans had that issue. Regardless I am a maintenance freak so I'm not super worried.

Thank you!

Harry

· #12 · 16 d ago

Slammer, Boomer the Onan master should be able to help you out. My Onan had the block off plate ao I purchased the oil filter adapted from him. He is so knowledgeable on the Onan engines give him a call. 651-437-2826. ✌ Harry

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Slammer

Discussion Starter · #13 · 16 d ago

I cannot for the life of me find a dipstick for this hydraulic reservoir. Engine oil is rght in front of my face but the hydraulic one seems to be a mystery

mendonsy

· #14 · 16 d ago

Slammer said:
I cannot for the life of me find a dipstick for this hydraulic reservoir. Engine oil is rght in front of my face but the hydraulic one seems to be a mystery

My '78 446 doesn't have a dipstick for the hydraulic oil. It is purely a visual measurement looking into the filler tube.

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myerslawnandgarden

· #15 · 15 d ago

mendonsy said:
My '78 446 doesn't have a dipstick for the hydraulic oil. It is purely a visual measurement looking into the filler tube.

1978 models have a plastic reservoir and do not use a dipstick. The dipstick was only used with the metal under battery reservoirs on the 1976-1977 production.

Bob

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Slammer

Discussion Starter · #16 · 15 d ago

Is that weld factory on my lift link? I don't think it is and I plan on cutting it out.

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ROCKLAND VALLEY

· #17 · 14 d ago

Slammer said:
Ok so apparently there is a separate dipstick for the hydraulics...clearly I didn't see it. I will find it tomorrow in the daylight.

If this Onan has no oil filter is there a way I can add one? Talking with a local case enthusiast today he told me the Onans without the filter are the ones notorious for throwing rods...

You may have misunderstood, the ones missing the oil filter outer grommet often throw rods or drop valve seats on that side when missing, especially if worked hard or not been decarboned. They over heat and bad things happen. We see roughly 6 a year with thrown rods, 9o percent of the time its on the oil filter side and the sealing grommet around the oil filter to the tins is missing. $10 part wrecks many engines. We never let one leave here without them we go through case of them a year. https://www.caseingersolltractors.com/product-page/oil-filter-grommet

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