[JasonHovell]

I teach a high school Small Engines class, where we focus mainly on 3-8 hp single cylinder engines...typically Briggs since they are in abundance... we've been able to take 8 out of 10 non-running push mowers that I've picked up for free/near-free on Craigslist, and have the kids dissassemble, wash, assemble, and trouble mowers succesfully in the past month, along with various labs (precision measurement, compression, decarboning, etc). They are just starting to bring in projects from home and excitement is high...

I bought another 78-446 off of craigslist on New Year's day... and the kids have been using that as a learning tool as well- like the inner working of the pto clutch, learning about compression testing...and when a kid has some down time, they've been grinding away at the wheel wells, engine shroud and metal surrounding the muffler, and learning how to paint. Many have been scouring the area looking for a high wheel tractor of there own...

Anyway...the reason for this posting....

The last two things I want to do to this machine are:

1- Add a travel control valve- which I should be receiving next week

2- Add a new dash decal, which I have...

In order to put the decal on, the steering wheel has (had) to come off...and the kids and I had one heck of a time. The one kid that makes me feel a little uncomfortable with his machine/shop skills (ie- Kids call him Rambo for being a little rough on things and is an individual that should learn to "measure twice, cut once". He insists that a big hammer fixes everything, etc...) Needless to say the steering wheel cracked, and I need to replace it...

If you look at the picture below- any tips on removing the large "nut-type" thing that was once inside of the steering wheel? The key was esentially fused/a peice of the large nut and virtually impossible to remove. Tried rigging a gear puller with no success. Eventually I (well we) took a grinding wheel to it to see if it could loosen it up below the key, and no such luck yet...please tell me this part is suppose to come off, right...and not stay on? the threads still are in good shape.

I've looked in the manual/files- and this looks nothing like what is pictured... I need some guidence/reassurance.

This sure has been more stubborn than most things I've ran across in a while.

Looking for some encouragement, tips, ideas, and a steering wheel...

I'll share some photos when all finished. Thanks for helping my program & kids, and please support your local ag & vocational/tech ed programs. Some of you would make great guest speakers...

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Jason

 

[Hydriv]

You need a device called a bearing splitter. I has knife-like edges that will go under the steel hub. You then use a puller that employs long bolts to fasten it to the threaded holes in the bearing splitter. It has a screw in the middle of it that bears down on the steering shaft. Just make sure you put the nut back on the steering shaft and make it flush with the top of the shaft. That will protect the threads.


Sorry to have to tell you this but you need to remove the throttle and choke controls plus the levers for travel and implement lift. The old decal must be removed 100 percent. The area below the old decal must be 100 percent free of grease, oil, dirt and old adhesive. It must also be free of any imperfections or you will see those in the new decal. Imperfections can also cause problems with the installation of the new decal.

 

[JasonHovell]

Tom-

Planning on moving the throttle cables and levers as well...

Off to find me a bearing splitter...

Jason

 

[Bart]

If you want to try to preserve the shaft then soak the nut area with PB Blaster for a day or so then put the nut on loosely to protect the threads and let Rambo have at it with an air hammer. If you follow Tom's advice and use a bearing splitter you can use the air hammer once the splitter is tightened up.

Another alternative is to cut the steering shaft in the middle and then you can remove it easily. The old style steering wheels such as the one you have are getting harder to find and the newer ones are easier to deal with--they just have a roll pin that holds it on. Use the old steering shaft as a pattern to make a new one. If the steering gear on the shaft is in good condition you can grind the weld off of the end of the shaft and reuse it or install a new one.

 

[drhulv]

Jason -

Look on page 18 in the "Case Colt Ingersoll Tractors" forum on this site. There is a thread called, "Case/Ingersoll Steering Wheel Removal" that I posted awhile back. It has the procedures I used along with some pics using a bearing splitter and steering wheel puller. This may give you some ideas.

Good luck!

 

[oldcasecoltguy]

Tom-

Planning on moving the throttle cables and levers as well...

Off to find me a bearing splitter...

Jason

Jason,

At this stage of the game, you can also take a 4-1/2" angle grinder and grind through on top of the keyway and relieve the pressure and it will loosen right up, it does not take much rust it to set it up tight, use anti-seeze when installing the new steering wheel.

Jim

 

[mjodrey]

These bearing separators work great to remove tractor steering wheels with little to no damage.

Maynard :canada:

 

[mastifflawyer]

We used one from Harbor Freight on the Deluxe, and it worked perfectly.

 

[jkallis620]

I have drilled as close to the shaft key as possible (within 1/16") with a 1/4" bit, then drill another hole (towards the outer edge) next to the one drilled previous, and if there is enough metal left drill another hole. When done take a 5/16 or 3/8 wide cold chisel and try to split what is left. It should be easy to remove then. Good Luck JerryK

 

[Hydriv]

I have drilled as close to the shaft key as possible (within 1/16") with a 1/4" bit, then drill another hole (towards the outer edge) next to the one drilled previous, and if there is enough metal left drill another hole. When done take a 5/16 or 3/8 wide cold chisel and try to split what is left. It should be easy to remove then. Good Luck JerryK

Jerry,
If the steering wheel is junk and all you are trying to do is save the steering shaft, then your method works and I've seen it suggested previously on other forums. Thanks for mentioning it in this thread because it certainly is a viable option.

 

[chrycotech]

Hello tractor guys,

I don't have a problem getting my steering wheel off but today I broke the steering wheel on my 1977 222. The plastic hub surrounding the metal hub cracked down the middle. I have done a temporary Red Green repair to it but I'll have to find a replacement soon. I've checked the Sale & Trade ads and eBay but could not see one for sale.

Mine is the older type with the woodruff key near the top of the shaft. The steering shaft is threaded at the top to accommodate a nut that secures the steering wheel to the shaft.

How about it guys? If anybody has spare good condition used steering wheel for sale, let me know.

Ron Wenzel

 

[tanandorange]

Hello tractor guys,

I don't have a problem getting my steering wheel off but today I broke the steering wheel on my 1977 222. The plastic hub surrounding the metal hub cracked down the middle. I have done a temporary Red Green repair to it but I'll have to find a replacement soon. I've checked the Sale & Trade ads and eBay but could not see one for sale.

Mine is the older type with the woodruff key near the top of the shaft. The steering shaft is threaded at the top to accommodate a nut that secures the steering wheel to the shaft.

How about it guys? If anybody has spare good condition used steering wheel for sale, let me know.

Ron Wenzel

Hi Ron,
You may also want to post this in the "For Sale or Trade" section of this site. If nobody here has one to sell, you may want to check Joe's Outdoor Power or Green Swamp Tool.
PS-Red Green is hilarious. :canada: I wish they would air his show here in the states. :usa:
John

 

[Stewart]

Ron

They are available new, not positive on price but I recall $130.00 plus $10.00 for the cap

and for us :canada: there's shipping. :thumbsup:

I had hose clamps on mine for 20 years .

I used a roto-zip and cut a slot along the key way to remove the inner hub.

Stewart