[chllngr528]

I have tried everything to get the steering wheel off of this 222 I am working on. It is the type of steering wheel that is held on with a roll pin. I had no problems knocking the roll pin out, as a matter of fact it came out extremely easy. The steering wheel on the other hand not so much. I have soaked it in PB blaster for the past week and left the puller on there the whole time while it was soaking. I have beat the crap out of the the puller with a impact and a hammer and it still wont budge. Any ideas?

 

[Bart]

Since you've got the roll pin out I would put some vise grips on the shaft and try turning the wheel back and forth to loosen it up. Keep spraying it with penetrating oil and it should start moving but don't try to muscle it too hard or you could break the wheel.

 

[CASE 220/4]

I had the same problem with mine. The roll pin came out easy but the wheel just wouldnt pop up off the shaft. I had to lock down some vise grips to the shaft underneath the dash and turn the wheel until they hit the frame. Once they are jammed up on the frame then continue to turn to the whee in the same direction to break the bond free. Use your judgement on how much pressure to use when doing this so that you dont break the wheel. Remember, its plastic. Once it moves a little bit then try the same thing in the opposite direction. A replacement steering wheel isnt cheap so keep that in mind if you decide to pick up the BFH. Let us know how you make out

 

[chllngr528]

I already tried to twist it off, though I used a 14" pipe wrench instead of the vise grips. Anyways it didn't work and I just broke my puller. I dont even know how to explain how I broke it. I will have to take a picture of it tomorrow. I filled the steering wheel up with PB again so if I can get it off tomorrow I am going to cut it off :twisted:

 

[oldfrank]

Have you tried a heat gun {sort of a hair dryer}, the plastic should become pliable and expand enough to break it free , if it starts to move DON"T stop , just keep moving back and forth and lift at the same time. Good luck--- oldfrank

 

[Hydriv]

If you apply too much rotational pressure on the wheel, you will literally tear the plastic from the metal hub thus turning the wheel into a wall ornament.

Case 220/4 writes:

the above statement was part of a post made by Hydriv in a previous post that I somehow managed to delete.

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Case 220/4 writes:
that why I said use your judgement when performing the twisting method.

OP, if you do intend on cutting it then try to cut the shaft in an area that will allow you to get a welder in there again to reweld it when you put it back together. That is unless you can free the shaft from the wheel while it is off the tractor AND end up buying a new shaft.

 

[CASE 220/4]

Tom,I dont know what the hell I just did but I managed to edit your previous post when it was supposed to quote you. Im on my sons little noteook computer so it isnt exactly easy for me at the moment.

 

[Billygoat]

If one tears the plastic from the hub, they can be fixed.

 

[Billygoat]

It will just look like this! :sidelaugh:

 

[dbeiter]

Hey why don't you try this trick that I use... A wise man (Steve Guider) :trink: once told me to take a right angle grinder to the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft, grind off the weld that holds the gear to the shaft, take a punch and smack the center of the shaft a few (maybe 20) times and Voila!!! steering wheel and shaft come off!!, then when replacing the wheel, simply weld the gear back on the shaft........... I have done this several times and it works like a charm! :thumbsup:

 

[grummy]

I want to know the "end goal".....

If you're trying to save a wheel to use on another tractor, the "grind off the gear" is one option, another is to cut off the shaft in the inspection plate, then cut it off to about a 1" stub. Put that stub in a drill press vice vertically (in the V groove), center punch the top and then drill down from the top, working your way up to a 9/16" bit. Then you will be able to chisel out the shell that is left.

Remember the anti-seize when you put it back together !

 

[chllngr528]

Thanks for everyones advice. I never was able to get the wheel off the shaft but it took me 10 minutes to get the gear off the bottom. After I got it out though is when I screwed up :facepalm: I wasn't happy with the fact I acheived what I wanted, which was just to remove the shaft and wheel. I had to try to get the shaft out of the wheel sooooo I put it in my press and damn near pressed aluminum insert out with shaft. I tried a couple more things but was not able to get the shaft to come of the wheel. I am just going to leave well enough alone for now. Thanks!

 

[mjodrey]

Maybe I'm missing something here,but have you tried a bearing separator?

Maynard :canada:

 

[chllngr528]

Yes I tried that exact same setup with a craftsman puller and a OTC bearing splitter. The end result was I broke the puller.

 

[67halfcab]

Hey why don't you try this trick that I use... A wise man (Steve Guider) :trink: once told me to take a right angle grinder to the gear on the bottom of the steering shaft, grind off the weld that holds the gear to the shaft, take a punch and smack the center of the shaft a few (maybe 20) times and Voila!!! steering wheel and shaft come off!!, then when replacing the wheel, simply weld the gear back on the shaft........... I have done this several times and it works like a charm! :thumbsup:

I've done this with three of my tractors, two worked like a charm in under 10min and once the wheel and shaft are out, it is much easier to remove the wheel from the shaft with other tools. The third tractor however, I don't know how deep the penetration was on the original weld but I'm tellin you it's deep and that wheel is still on that tractor, at least until spring.

 

[horton20]

This works perfect,and you have to get the sterring wheel out of the way to put on your new dash decal. Thanks Dave for putting that on the site. Horton20.