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I am currently in the process of a similar build but with a Kubota D1105 diesel, I am in the final run of getting it driving under it's own power and plan to make more updates on it here soon. You can check my profile for previous threads to see what I had to do it it. I had a little more hack and slash to do to mine but it's what I had, all said and done I think I spent maybe $1000 on the engine including rebuild as I was looking at a similar route as this but the prices of even used diesel motors pushed me away. Glad to see I'm not alone in the pursuit of "big" diesel swaps, looks like you've done a much cleaner job than I have though and started with parts that are in much better condition.

Some things to note from my perspective on my build, may or may not be helpful for you:

1) Having a mechanical PTO for either the rear hitch or the middle is next to impossible. I have worked out a mid PTO idea but have yet to try it and for the rear there's just simply no room unfortunately without large amounts of fab and modification.

2) With these diesels they're far heavier typically than the stock Onans (not to mention significantly more torque-y) so I'd recommend some frame reinforcement at some point, especially if you are planning on adding a loader or sizing up the 3pt category. Also, the weakest link typically is the frame cross-section change by the brake drum (extensively covered on this site) and the front axle and mounting area (@bobneumann has a fantastic video on a new front axle build on his YouTube channel). The frame is roughly 10ga C-Channel which is strong but given enough twisting loads will yield pretty quickly.

3) With great power comes great responsibility... Curious to see what pump sizing you're planning on doing and what kind of attachments/valves you're going to throw on there. I have found the hardest design problem on mine has been the hydraulic routing and valve placement. Either way 20hp is a lot to play with in something that size and all hydraulic.
 

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Thank you everyone for the compliments!!!!!

I'll use this post to address all the questions and then later tonight I'll post where I'm at with the hydraulic system.

Dundee- As for no front pto and mid lift... yes I do want to retain original functionality with the mid lift cylinder to do a few things. I want to possibly keep a plow on the front all the time. The case plow is actually pretty heavy duty compared to most other brands. I have the new style designed in fusion 360 but I need to find a place to laser cut and bend the brackets. I also would like to possibly run a middle blade like a road grader with tilt and pivot as well (hint to the 3 spool valve on the drivers side). So keeping a cylinder tucked up on the engine close to the original position will let me do that without have to redo everything. I do not plan on a loader at this point. If I was going to do a loader I think I'd just find a case loader and go that route instead. The Super 446 is going to stay more along the lines of a traditional farm tractor.

Bob- I have seen your post and do have it book marked. Your setup is something I have definitely considered. One thing I forgot to mention was I do want to do a individual rear brake setup. The website and posts by a gentleman named gator I believe is gone but I have started to source parts for it. So that might be a good way to go for the brakes.

Vigo- I will post more of the hydraulic system so far later tonight.

Ddude- I will definitely just be doing the rear hydraulic pto and maybe a front at some point as well. Not sure what I'd use on the front but you never know. That could be done two ways, off the 3 spool valve or just make up some lines off the rear pto valve. I don't think I'd run some front and back at the same time but who knows.

As far as frame reinforcements I do plan on doing something. I haven't seen anything on the rear of the frame, could you post a link? As for the front I have seen numerous failures while researching. My plan of attack is two fold. The diesel block is a very stout structure so what I plan on doing is kind of like a Farmall tractor. The engine will be part of the structure along with the frame rails.



I'm going to make a plate that will drop down in the notch where the Onan sat. It will get welded front to back and will hold the engine like a cradle. Then I'll have two flanges on the each side of the rear to bolt to the starter plate. The starter plate is roughly 1/4" and will work just like a engine mounting plate in say like a racecar.

Then I also would very much like to make a one piece plate that will run from front to rear. It will go over and around the front axle reinforcing that and the front attachment mounts as well.

Then on the bottom of the frame will be a flange, basically making one larger piece of angle iron front to rear. The only place it might cause an issue is around the brake drum. That side might have to be split into two pieces but I think it can be done.

It would be nice to tie into the 3 point plate as well.
It sounds like you're on the right track for the frame reinforcement. I personally like Bob's video on his loader build series and am doing something similar with mine just different material, I'll add a link at the end of this comment for reference. I am going to use 2"x2"x1/4" angle that will just be welded on to the outside of the C-Channel adding the material to the overall shape. It will take two long pieces of angle for each side and will require a lot of notching to fit around things like the control stack, motor mounts, etc. It's the best way I've figured to do it since you get the edges of the flange to do a full straight weld the whole length of the tractor, and you also get a spot between the two pieces of angle directly in the center of the original C-Channel's webbing to do another full length weld. Also, with my loader build the loader will attach to a semi-removable subframe that will act as extra frame reinforcement. It will attach to the sleeve hitch ears on the transaxle, then connect to the frame in a couple places.

Some helpful links I have gotten:

Feel free to contact me if you need any help brainstorming or some more references to work with.

For the PTO, I plan on using just the one single spool valve I have mounted to control a front and rear PTO. The "front" PTO will be more like a mid/front and will terminate about 6-8 inches before the front axle so I can power a hydraulic mowing deck if my belt drive mid-PTO idea is a failure. The single spool valve will run straight down to a Tee then run from the tee to the front and back of the tractor. Like you, I do not see any use-case where I would need both the front and rear PTO at the same time so I think this will work just fine. Although I personally would not be using mine to run a brush hog of sorts like it seems like you will be, I will likely be just using the tiller and possibly a hydro sweeper on the front. The valve I have can be used for either cylinder or motor operation since I have both styles of detents for it and they're relatively easy to swap out so I will have a hydraulic blade or something of the sort and maybe a dump trailer as well.
 

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I ended up doing the same service to the fuel system on my Kubota diesel and the injectors I got were cheap-o Fleabay ones and I ended with 2 of 3 working and the third one wept a small bit of diesel when it ran. I ended up paying about $120 for 4 injectors at the end of it all so they aren't too bad, they're super simple as they're just the fuel nozzle with what is essentially a pressure operated check valve. Only picky thing on the injectors on mine is the two halves of the injectors determines their pop off pressure so if they're assembled wrong they won't work right. If you plan on rebuilding them I would 100% get the nozzle tester, they aren't to expensive and save you a ton of headache in the long run. Looks like you got a gem of a motor though, should be plenty sturdy after you get it going!
 

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Yeah I haven't looked into it to much yet but I have ordered a tester. Gonna give it a whirl. I know my injectors pressure is set with shims. I don't know if the two halves have to be set a certain way or not yet.

I have for a few places that sell remaned injectors anywhere from $75 to $200 each and some have core charges as well. John Deere uses these same injectors and pressure settings on a dozen or more machines. I would hope John Deere injectors are genuine yanmar but who honestly knows.
So I apparently missed a word or two in that post... how tight together the two halves of the injectors are determines the pop off pressure, I assume it's pre-loading the spring in the check valve within them so it releases at a given pressure which is determined by the torque applied to the top half on the injector when installing it to the bottom half. Your shims probably work the same way as mine just uses a copper crush washer instead.

I read your controller deal for the cooling system and as it seems like a neat idea what you need to look at is if the motor for the fan can handle what you're wanting to do, not all motors like PWM control unfortunately. Also, the tube and shell heat exchanger for the hydraulic system would be good but would have to be quite large as the hydraulic fluid is moving pretty fast and would either need to be slowed down through the cooler or the cooler would have to be extremely long to compensate and provide any reasonable efficiency. I prefer Engineer's Edge or Engineer's Toolbox for some calculation help on things like that. (Engineering Page > Heat Exchangers, thermal calculators and information) Heat transfer and fluid and thermal systems like that are very picky and require some serious design consideration to be properly effective. For me I'd rather upsize the stock radiator or just use the stock radiator as your fan will be pulling way more CFM than the stock mechanical fan which will increase the cooling capacity. If you run some nice Rotella synthetic oil in the hydro system you'd be dangerously close to or will be melting the aluminum fins on the cooler before the oil starts to break down.
 
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