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Awesome swap. Clearly not your first rodeo.

Interesting mounting on the hydraulic valve set. Since it's not for a loader it'll probably be fine. 3 spools.. Are you separating the 3pt and mid lift circuits?
 

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Interesting mods!

Got a question.. am i right in thinking this handle could be rotated to pull front/back? Might be slightly more intuitive that way if used for the top link. I can't tell from the pic if it would interfere with the next handle's silver 'body' or not.
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Hydraulic top link.. yes! Once you have used a power top link with a box blade you'll never want to touch a box blade without a power top link. Like if i told someone i used my box blade for this or that and they said "can you get on my tractor and show me what you're talking about" and they didn't have a power top link, id be like.. ehhhh.. let's change the subject lol.

I used an electric-over-hydraulic cylinder for mine on my small Kubota B6100. I bought two of them with the thought i'd put the other one on my Case but have not done so yet. Obviously real hydraulics is the way to go if you've got the valves and plumbing all planned out. I have thought about a 'tilt' link but haven't talked myself into it yet. Seems like a lot of hassle for something i wouldn't use that often, plus it would practically have to have a load holding valve or inline cutoff to keep from 'drifting' all the time. What i HAVE spent a lot of time thinking about, is modifying my next angle blade for tilt, manually. I don't have as much desire to tilt my box blade.

As far as the 3pt mower, I like the idea but i think a 'conventional' 3pt mower won't get you as far under a tree as you might like. If you extend it far enough rearward your tractor, with no loader, would need a ton of front counterweight. Going back to my b6100 (only a bit bigger than Case) with an FEL, 4' bush hog is no problem. On a b7100 i have (same basic tractor) with no loader, same bush hog plus 3x55lb weights up front, still does not have a lot of steering authority.

What i think might be a better idea in your case, since it would be hydraulically driven, is to front mount this mower. Maybe make it able to use the same lift mechanism you'll be building for your plow. The tractor is already heavier at the rear, plus the 3pt can pick up another 500+lbs, plus your head is further from that end of the tractor. If you draw a line from the top of the mower deck to the top of your head with the 3pt design, it really only gets you 3-4ft further under a tree before hitting your head on branches, than a mid mount mower! Draw the same line in the front and it's more like a 5-6ft difference, plus you could make the thing 'extendable' if you wanted. Something like a 2.5" square tube nested inside a 3" square tube, with a couple of crosspin holes, could make it extend by several feet pretty easily. If it extends AND angles up far enough on the lift mechanism, would also make it pretty easy to do blade repair/maintenance. And heck, you could still put 3pt brackets on it and use it that way too. Or maybe this is just too much scope creep. 馃槀
 

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So as much as i like an elegant implementation, i think you might be overthinking fan control. I would venture that you would be totally fine with on/off. Let the actual thermostat do the 'metering' and have the fan just be on/off. The only thing that i would say is too simple of a switching circuit will have it click on and off repeatedly when near the set point. Something that actually turns it on and off at different temps would be better in that sense.

As far as the hydraulic cooling, I have NO fan on my Predator 212-repowered Case 444, and i have not 'overheated' the hydraulics. However, it is purely a push/pull machine and i don't do any PTO anything with it.

Is there any room between the front of the hydraulic cooler and the grille?
 

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Very cool.

So is the bolt pattern on the side of the engine block some kind of standardized thing? Looks possibly identical to my small Kubotas. I'm an ASE Master but still a newbie to the industrial side of things where there are standardized things like bellhousing patterns, pump mounting patterns, etc.
 

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Just got caught up.. really great stuff.

I think hydraulic system temps are generally LOWER than engine oil temps can get to in any car/truck that doesn't have an oil cooler. So definitely 'fine' to do the liquid to liquid you were mentioning. My mom's Volvo i just did some work on has one like that right off the side of the oil pan. Some people use them between their air conditioning lines and a liquid tank for an air to water intercooler, etc.. all cool stuff. :)

I'm wondering why bother doing a mechanical belt drive to a mower deck when Case is all about hydraulics.. just because a stock deck would attach and work easily?? You're jumping through huge hoops in other areas, in that sense just converting a stock mower deck to a hydraulic motor drive with a couple of quick disconnects is relatively simple, probably much simpler than getting a stock-style pto clutch in place. Would actually make hooking and unhooking the deck a lot simpler as well. But i'm not against the pto.. it's obvious you can pull it off. I'm just not sure why it's an attractive idea.

I have mowed a bit with my Kubota B7100 which is a similar sized machine with similar size 3cyl diesel.. nice and easy. The only thing i've ever hooked to my kubota 3cyl diesels (i have 3 of them) that made it noticeably suck down the fuel was run a 48" pto trencher bar. Everything else i don't look at the fuel level more than once a week, lol. What i really liked about mowing with the b7100 though was that it has 3 pto speed ranges.. so under some conditions i was able to mow with pto in 3rd gear and trans in 3/hi just loafing along at 1500rpm with the blades zinging and cutting some grass. Still cutting at ~5mph but with a 'half throttle' noise level. Could do the same hydraulically but you'd need another type of valve to do it. I've noticed one thing with small machines and hydraulics is all the stuff you want to try exists... but packaging it all attractively into a small space becomes a REAL struggle because it's a mini machine and none of the controls are mini.
 

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I think it would matter a lot on a convection-only system like my Kubota B6100/7100s with no water pump. I do not think it will matter at all in your case because the 'sensing element' of the thermostat is still below the water line. The thing i would be careful of is that if you DONT have an overflow tank (regular, not pressurised) and the system pushes out some coolant from expansion, after it contracts it will simply suck air back in and THEN the water level might be below the thermostat. So i would say you need a regular overflow bottle like a car has where the filler neck vent tube is submerged in the overflow so it can suck coolant back in as the system 'contracts' during cooling. Other than that i would not expect any issues from your setup.

Beautiful work!
 
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