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I also had to remove the parking brake setting bar from inside my frame rails. I moved it to just outside the frame rails. I remade it a little longer and from a little thicker steel, and routed it through a slot in the front face of the footrest panel. I relocated the factory tension spring to up underneath the footrest panel. For setting the parking brake, I added an extra "inner" brake pedal. It works really smoothly.

The horizontal bar has a cog cut into it such that when you lift up on the rearward end of the bar while the pedal is pushed all the way down, the cog in the bar clicks up and engages against the top of the slot. With the bar thus engaged, the brake pedal is locked in the full down position.

The "extra' inner pedal applies tension to the visible "lifting" spring as the brake pedal travels forward. So if you put your foot on that upper/inner pedal and push down, you'll hear a click at the end of pedal travel, the the parking brake is now set.

If you then push on the "normal" pedal, you'll hear a click, and the parking brake is now unset.

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If you wanted to go this route, you may need to upgrade your older style brake pedal to the newer style.

Bob
 

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Radiator came in today. I had a Kubota radiator but it barely fit in the grill. So without major surgery it was a no go.

The current radiator I have is from champion radiators and is for a Austin Mini. I'm hoping since it will cool a 850cc to 1275cc 4 cylinder it will work for my 785cc 3 cylinder.

It was suggested by a few guys on Facebook who have done diesel swaps. It fits great in place although I wish it was a little bigger. The only other options at this point without majorly cutting the hood and grill are a race Mini radiator that has a thicker core, a full custom radiator or the addition of a engine oil cooler. So I guess I'll have to wait and see how it does once it is running.



I'm doing some engine work tomorrow so once it is back together and in the tractor I'll know what I have to work with for a fan.
That looks great! I presume you're planning for a fan shroud? Because with a shroud the fan "sucks" air right through the radiator. Without a shroud, the fan just "swirls" the air in that general vicinity.

Bob
 

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The spal fan I'm ordering should just about cover the entire core area.
The circular circumference is the important part about a shroud. When the fan is running inside that cylinder, the air is forced to flow axially, through the propeller. Without it, a fan is only about 70% effective. 30% of the air just "swirls around" the outside of the fan.

You want your fan to make the air "travel" not just stir it up in place. And you don't want the fan to pull any of its air from this side of the radiator, you want to suck outside air inward through the radiator vanes. So the shroud makes the fan itself more effective at making the air "travel", and it ensures that all the air has to come from out in front of the radior.

I may be overthinking it. It could well be that your diesel will run cool, and 70% axial flow will be fine. But if it does struggle, I wouldn't look to add a larger radiator, I'd look to add a fan shroud.

Bob
 

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So as far as a shroud goes, I see what you mean now when you said your fan just about covers the radiator. That electric fan is built into a shroud. So as long as you have a small or no gap between that plastic shroud/housing and the face of the radiator, then you're getting full flow through your radiator equal to the area of that fan shroud.

So in your case, you could eke out a little bit more efficiency by adding a full rectangular shroud. But I'd be shocked if what you have doesn't work perfectly.

I was thinking this whole time you were just going to be running a fan off of the engines water pump or some such. With that electric fan integrated into that plastic shroud will do a great job.

And while I'm at it, everything else you've done to this point just looks top-notch. You're really doing a job to be proud of.

Bob
 
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