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Super 446 Build- Diesel Swap

5485 Views 93 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Shtf45acp
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I will start slowly posting my Case 446 with diesel swap here which I'm going to call the Super 446. I'm currently half way through the build but I'll start from the beginning and post a little bit at a time until I'm at the current state of the build.

So a bit of background, I got into Case tractors this past summer. With the help of this forum my son and I 100% mechanically restored a 1988 446. That is our mowing tractor. We went over it top to bottom, and besides paint.... it is basically brand new like it was from the factory with the exception of a few mods like the TCV linkage and factory looking led headlights. It is a wonderful tractor and is quite amazing how nice it mows and how quiet it is while it mows.

So moving forward, this past summer I needed to remove a tree stump in my yard and my powerstroke F250 would not even budge it. So I rented a kubota BX23 with loader and backhoe. That little diesel tractor was absolutely amazing, but the $20k price tag was now. After the tree stump was removed, I no longer needed a loader or backhoe on my property but still wanted a diesel tractor.

In comes a excellent condition one owner 1982 446 that I drove 4 hours one way to Virginia from Pennsylvania to buy. It came with a plow and tiller. The gentleman who owned it said his father bought it brand new in 1982 and used it till he died in the mid 2000's. He himself never used it but it was in amazing condition and came with a book full of records and receipts for everything that was done. So definitely a good score.

So the plan is to completely redo the '82 446 and make it better at least in my opinion. I love to tinker and have the necessary skills and knowledge to do so. I know there will be naysayers but I honestly don't really care as it is my tractor and I already have a stock 446 to do things the Super 446 can't but it won't be many things. Please don't take this the wrong way, as this is a hobby and passion of mine always tinkering and making things better.

So here's the start of my 1982 Super 446.

I started with completely stripping it and cleaning everything. Nothing real special here but as I put it back together I started to replace little things that needed it and fixing little things as I went.





I put on some new Firestone tires all the way around. The fronts are the 16x6.50-8 tri-ribs from Miller tire. The rears are 8-16 Firestone Regency. I like these tires for the fact they aren't as steep of an angle on the bars and bite a good bit better in dirt. I do kind of wish I would have went with 9.5-16 but I still can down the road and put these on the '88 446.

I cleaned and the reamed the front spindles for a nice smooth turn. They were extremely gunked up with old grease. I also drilled out all the grease fittings and tapped them for 1/4-28 fittings. I also did the poor man's power steering on the front with parts from McMaster Carr.

The pivot pin was replaced on the front axle. I also did this on my '88 446, but on the Super 446 it still had some slack. I'm not sure if I want to try and fix that and how I'd go about it. Carefully slicing the frame from the bottom up and then pull it tight with some clamps, then rewelding it would probably fix the slop left but I'm not sure if it is even worth messing with.

What have some of you done to fix the excess slop on the front axle? It isn't much but with my OCD it bothers me.
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The axle pin kit is available on Ebay. It squeezes the front and rear vertical flanges against the faces of the axle to keep it from wiggling.

I made my own, you'll probably want to do the same.

Bob
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I also had to remove the parking brake setting bar from inside my frame rails. I moved it to just outside the frame rails. I remade it a little longer and from a little thicker steel, and routed it through a slot in the front face of the footrest panel. I relocated the factory tension spring to up underneath the footrest panel. For setting the parking brake, I added an extra "inner" brake pedal. It works really smoothly.

The horizontal bar has a cog cut into it such that when you lift up on the rearward end of the bar while the pedal is pushed all the way down, the cog in the bar clicks up and engages against the top of the slot. With the bar thus engaged, the brake pedal is locked in the full down position.

The "extra' inner pedal applies tension to the visible "lifting" spring as the brake pedal travels forward. So if you put your foot on that upper/inner pedal and push down, you'll hear a click at the end of pedal travel, the the parking brake is now set.

If you then push on the "normal" pedal, you'll hear a click, and the parking brake is now unset.

Automotive tire Hood Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive lighting

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If you wanted to go this route, you may need to upgrade your older style brake pedal to the newer style.

Bob
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Looking great so far.

If you feed your 3 spool from the pto's PB, won't that mean that no oil flows back up to your flow control and then on to your TCV? I thought you'd have to feed your TCV from the pto's PB.

Bob
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Radiator came in today. I had a Kubota radiator but it barely fit in the grill. So without major surgery it was a no go.

The current radiator I have is from champion radiators and is for a Austin Mini. I'm hoping since it will cool a 850cc to 1275cc 4 cylinder it will work for my 785cc 3 cylinder.

It was suggested by a few guys on Facebook who have done diesel swaps. It fits great in place although I wish it was a little bigger. The only other options at this point without majorly cutting the hood and grill are a race Mini radiator that has a thicker core, a full custom radiator or the addition of a engine oil cooler. So I guess I'll have to wait and see how it does once it is running.



I'm doing some engine work tomorrow so once it is back together and in the tractor I'll know what I have to work with for a fan.
That looks great! I presume you're planning for a fan shroud? Because with a shroud the fan "sucks" air right through the radiator. Without a shroud, the fan just "swirls" the air in that general vicinity.

Bob
The spal fan I'm ordering should just about cover the entire core area.
The circular circumference is the important part about a shroud. When the fan is running inside that cylinder, the air is forced to flow axially, through the propeller. Without it, a fan is only about 70% effective. 30% of the air just "swirls around" the outside of the fan.

You want your fan to make the air "travel" not just stir it up in place. And you don't want the fan to pull any of its air from this side of the radiator, you want to suck outside air inward through the radiator vanes. So the shroud makes the fan itself more effective at making the air "travel", and it ensures that all the air has to come from out in front of the radior.

I may be overthinking it. It could well be that your diesel will run cool, and 70% axial flow will be fine. But if it does struggle, I wouldn't look to add a larger radiator, I'd look to add a fan shroud.

Bob
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So as far as a shroud goes, I see what you mean now when you said your fan just about covers the radiator. That electric fan is built into a shroud. So as long as you have a small or no gap between that plastic shroud/housing and the face of the radiator, then you're getting full flow through your radiator equal to the area of that fan shroud.

So in your case, you could eke out a little bit more efficiency by adding a full rectangular shroud. But I'd be shocked if what you have doesn't work perfectly.

I was thinking this whole time you were just going to be running a fan off of the engines water pump or some such. With that electric fan integrated into that plastic shroud will do a great job.

And while I'm at it, everything else you've done to this point just looks top-notch. You're really doing a job to be proud of.

Bob
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So some good news...... actually great news!!!! I stopped by a local tractor/equipment dealer today. They used to be a john deere farm equipment dealer but was dropped by john deere a few years ago unfortunately. Anyway, I just wanted to see if maybe they had some parts or serviced injectors. Even better they had a set of injectors on the shelf ready to go. Original oem serviced injectors apparently a customer ordered and never picked them up. They sold them to me for three bills and told me if I had any problems to let them know. This was awesome! Of course it sucked I had to buy injectors but a got a pretty good deal I think anyway.

Got home and tested them out quick and sure enough all three are perfect. They actually spray better than my originals that I tried to clean. So they are all installed in the engine and ready to go. All I need to do to is run some fuel lines, a few temporary wires for the fuel pump, bleed the fuel system and it is ready to test fire! Hopefully I can do that this weekend.

Another good thing is I believe I can run a front pto.... but I need a bit more room in front. I got a electric pto from Amazon to see if it could be done and I think I can. So what I'll need to do is ditch the factory oil cooler. If I do that, I'll have the needed room for the electric clutch.

I'll have to design a stub shaft to bolt to the front pulley right off the crankshaft. It should be plenty strong to do so as the journals are a lot bigger than the Onan and the pulley is kind of press fit over the end of the crankshaft. The stub shaft will allow me to slide the electric clutch on with the pulley towards the engine which basically drops the belt down in the oem location. Then I'll just have to make a anti rotation bracket.

Now for the oil cooler, I think I'm gonna go one of two ways here. It is definitely gonna be a fluid to fluid cooler using the engine coolant. I'll either run a tube style cooler or a plate cooler. I think I have room above the engine off to either side of the valve cover. I'm gonna try to keep it over on the injection pump side, but I'm afraid I may have to run it above the exhaust manifold and make some heat shields. The other option is to mount it outside of the engine compartment on either side of the engine.

A tube style cooler is basically one big tube (2" to 4" in diameter) with a bunch of little tubes inside. The coolant would run through the main shell and the hydraulic oil would run through the little tubes. I've seen these that would flow upwards of 20gpm so it should work no problem.

The other style is a plate style cooler. It is basically a cube with alternating plates that run each fluid past each other in different plates. These coolers are actually extremely efficient and are used in tons of applications today. My F-250 6.0 powerstroke uses one for the engine oil and it isn't very big at all. Maybe 6"x6"x4". It keeps oil temps within 5 to 10 degrees (higher) of coolant temps almost all the time.

I'm really leaning towards the plate style at the moment. My only concern with these are temperature. I've done a lot of searching on the forum and it seems that most are saying really working a Case like tilling or equivalent use of rear pto, the hydraulic system is running upwards of 200°. So maybe I'm over thinking it. If the oil cooler and my little radiator can keep the coolant temps around 160° to 200° I'd guess I probably would be ok. Guess I'm gonna find out because adding a front pto back would actually be really nice.

I wasn't initially even concerned about a front pto but the more I think about it, the more excited I get to keep this feature. Mowing the lawn with a diesel swap would be awesome considering the fuel consumption alone. My '88 446 is a absolute gas guzzler.
I'm genuinely impressed by all of your progress so far. But if you manage to shoehorn working PTO in there too, then in my book you have really hit the trifecta for a the "ideal" engine swap.

Just fantastic.

Bob
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I agree with Dundee. The base of that neck tube is actually below the water line, just not the whole diameter. The entire head and thermostat are under the water line, so they'll sit full, and I don't think you're losing enough volume to matter. I'd start with it just as it is, and only modify it if you have issues.

Bob
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Others surely have more experience than I do. But to my mind the key point is whether the head and thermostat sit full. That the water level in the radiator is higher than the midline of the thermostat.

If you remove the gooseneck and fill up the radiator does the water overflow where the gooseneck bolts on?

If it does I think you'll be fine. If not then I think you'll end up needing either an expansion or pressure tank.

But trying the bleeder first can't hurt. It's basically free.

Bob
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