[dundee222]

They make a kit to fix the axle slop. Basically a pin that is drilled in the ends to allow you to use large washers to pull the axle support together up nice and snug to the axle itself. What are you going to use for a prime mover?

 

[dundee222]

Good description Bob. Way better than mine.

 

[dundee222]

Prime mover an old term for engine or powerplant.

 

[dundee222]

Yikes. Are you sure you have got enough room? Sounds like a lot of hacking to get it under the hood once you add a cooling rad ext. If it is only going to run the hydraulic pump 10-12 hp in a diesel is all you can use. [A 2 cylinder oil burner can supply that easily] If you are still going to be able to retain the front PTO, well,,, more is better.

 

[dundee222]

Impressed so far! With no front PTO do you really need the mid lift cylinder?

 

[dundee222]

I also had to remove the parking brake setting bar from inside my frame rails. I moved it to just outside the frame rails. I remade it a little longer and from a little thicker steel, and routed it through a slot in the front face of the footrest panel. I relocated the factory tension spring to up underneath the footrest panel. For setting the parking brake, I added an extra "inner" brake pedal. It works really smoothly.

The horizontal bar has a cog cut into it such that when you lift up on the rearward end of the bar while the pedal is pushed all the way down, the cog in the bar clicks up and engages against the top of the slot. With the bar thus engaged, the brake pedal is locked in the full down position.

The "extra' inner pedal applies tension to the visible "lifting" spring as the brake pedal travels forward. So if you put your foot on that upper/inner pedal and push down, you'll hear a click at the end of pedal travel, the the parking brake is now set.

If you then push on the "normal" pedal, you'll hear a click, and the parking brake is now unset.

View attachment 127822
View attachment 127821

If you wanted to go this route, you may need to upgrade your older style brake pedal to the newer style.

Bob

Very slick!!!! [Bigass thumbup here!]

 

[dundee222]

Nice work! I did mine a little differently. Here is a pic to give you ideas/options for yours. View attachment 127849 View attachment 127850

 

[dundee222]

Onan oil pressure gauge, ammeter, hydraulic oil temp and hydraulic pressure where the original amp gauge was. 'Cept for the tach and hydraulic pressure, the rest are NOS so it would look somewhat factory.

 

[dundee222]

It appears more than adequate! It is surprising how little cooling these little diesels actually need. I run 2 Kubota V2203s [45hp] out of reefers, with one using the factory Carrier rad and engine mounted fan. The rad, while a 4 pass, is only a little over a foot square and cools it just fine even though with the engine working hard pulling the compressor at 2800 rpms.

 

[dundee222]

CHEATING!!!!

 

[dundee222]

Lazer cutter??? An decent angle grinder and/or bandsaw and you would have those knocked out in half an hour or so.

 

[dundee222]

LOL I hear ya! I am meticulous too! But, at a least for the present, I'm blessed with the dexterity to cut or grind to a scribed line, if I need it to the thousandth, I'll clamp it on the mill. But,,, you have the all important, CONNECTIONS! I'm envious.

 

[dundee222]

Pretty high teck LOL making it out of plastic! The drive on my 4 cylinder Kubota that I pirated off a reefer used the same concept to drive the compressor's splined crankshaft. In fact I kept the splined drive and mated it to a bearing supported output shaft to hang the pulleys on for the generator and soon to be PTO drive setup. I don't know what kind of plastic is used, but it sure must be tough to stand the harmonics of a v twin refrigeration compressor for umpteen thousand hours.

 

[dundee222]

My [actually Carrier's] setup is about 5 1/2" outside and the splined hub [neatly tapered so easy to fit any shaft into] is about 1 1/2" with about 16 splines [never counted]. Mind you this is on a 40 hp application. Sorry about the pics, it is 40 degrees here tonight with 110% humidity and light rain and everything in the quonset is sweating despite both ends being open. Sucks!

 

[dundee222]

Don't worry about it. The block will be full with the rad being full , and the water pump will easily push the water over the hump when the thermostat opens. That little bit of space up there will just be added expansion space for the temperature change. I would fill it with just water for the first few runs till you get the [cold] level in the radiator right as it might puke a little while it decides how much coolant is enough.

 

[dundee222]

Most all tractors with cabs have the heater up in the roof. This is at least 4 feet above the engine and radiator and yet the water pump pushes coolant through the hoses up to the heater core and back seamlessly even after a full coolant change and flush, no bleeder up there either. So the so called internet experts are basically full of it.