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They make a kit to fix the axle slop. Basically a pin that is drilled in the ends to allow you to use large washers to pull the axle support together up nice and snug to the axle itself. What are you going to use for a prime mover?
 

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Yikes. Are you sure you have got enough room? Sounds like a lot of hacking to get it under the hood once you add a cooling rad ext. If it is only going to run the hydraulic pump 10-12 hp in a diesel is all you can use. [A 2 cylinder oil burner can supply that easily] If you are still going to be able to retain the front PTO, well,,, more is better.
 

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I also had to remove the parking brake setting bar from inside my frame rails. I moved it to just outside the frame rails. I remade it a little longer and from a little thicker steel, and routed it through a slot in the front face of the footrest panel. I relocated the factory tension spring to up underneath the footrest panel. For setting the parking brake, I added an extra "inner" brake pedal. It works really smoothly.

The horizontal bar has a cog cut into it such that when you lift up on the rearward end of the bar while the pedal is pushed all the way down, the cog in the bar clicks up and engages against the top of the slot. With the bar thus engaged, the brake pedal is locked in the full down position.

The "extra' inner pedal applies tension to the visible "lifting" spring as the brake pedal travels forward. So if you put your foot on that upper/inner pedal and push down, you'll hear a click at the end of pedal travel, the the parking brake is now set.

If you then push on the "normal" pedal, you'll hear a click, and the parking brake is now unset.

View attachment 127822
View attachment 127821

If you wanted to go this route, you may need to upgrade your older style brake pedal to the newer style.

Bob
Very slick!!!! [Bigass thumbup here!]
 

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Onan oil pressure gauge, ammeter, hydraulic oil temp and hydraulic pressure where the original amp gauge was. 'Cept for the tach and hydraulic pressure, the rest are NOS so it would look somewhat factory.
 

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It appears more than adequate! It is surprising how little cooling these little diesels actually need. I run 2 Kubota V2203s [45hp] out of reefers, with one using the factory Carrier rad and engine mounted fan. The rad, while a 4 pass, is only a little over a foot square and cools it just fine even though with the engine working hard pulling the compressor at 2800 rpms.
 
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