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1982 446 1988 446
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
So I managed to get the injectors cleaned and reassembled today. First two checked out great.... nice chatter, good stream and popped off right at 1700 psi.

Its always the last one.... why is that? It started out OK, seemed like the injector was fine. I figured I'd give it one more go and it went to crap. The spray pattern went all wacky and it won't even hold a 1000 psi now.

I figure the nozzle is bad. Not much else inside to go bad really. All they really are is high pressure needle valve. If the valve (nozzle) doesn't seat and hold pressure, then they don't work right.

So I think I'm probably gonna order new nozzles through john deere. They are $93 each. I guess I'll try one and see what it is like before I do all of them.

This really sucks because I'm ready to test fire it and planned on trying tomorrow 馃様.
 

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So I managed to get the injectors cleaned and reassembled today. First two checked out great.... nice chatter, good stream and popped off right at 1700 psi.

Its always the last one.... why is that? It started out OK, seemed like the injector was fine. I figured I'd give it one more go and it went to crap. The spray pattern went all wacky and it won't even hold a 1000 psi now.

I figure the nozzle is bad. Not much else inside to go bad really. All they really are is high pressure needle valve. If the valve (nozzle) doesn't seat and hold pressure, then they don't work right.

So I think I'm probably gonna order new nozzles through john deere. They are $93 each. I guess I'll try one and see what it is like before I do all of them.

This really sucks because I'm ready to test fire it and planned on trying tomorrow 馃様.
Just wondering if a little piece of crud snuck past you during the reassembly process? Might be worth another teardown and cleaning.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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1982 446 1988 446
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I thought that too..... I took it apart two times and no change. I'm assuming something settled differently in the nozzle and now it's shot unfortunately.

On a better note today my son 3d printed the flywheel hub today. It was a great proof of concept and works perfectly. Now I can get it mounted on the engine and design a mount for it.





I'm getting so close I can smell the diesel, oh wait that is just how the shop smells like now 馃槅. Seriously though I cannot wait for this thing to run!
 

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Pretty high teck LOL making it out of plastic! The drive on my 4 cylinder Kubota that I pirated off a reefer used the same concept to drive the compressor's splined crankshaft. In fact I kept the splined drive and mated it to a bearing supported output shaft to hang the pulleys on for the generator and soon to be PTO drive setup. I don't know what kind of plastic is used, but it sure must be tough to stand the harmonics of a v twin refrigeration compressor for umpteen thousand hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
It definitely is a stronger setup than a lovejoy IMO plus no worries on crankshaft end play taking out the pump.

A lot of stuff anymore is made from all types of plastics and composites. Was your hub larger in size?
 

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My [actually Carrier's] setup is about 5 1/2" outside and the splined hub [neatly tapered so easy to fit any shaft into] is about 1 1/2" with about 16 splines [never counted]. Mind you this is on a 40 hp application. Sorry about the pics, it is 40 degrees here tonight with 110% humidity and light rain and everything in the quonset is sweating despite both ends being open. Sucks!
 

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My Kubota diesel had an internal spline flange that drove the transmission on the RTV it came out of. I ditched the spline for a lovejoy, I was able to find one that can handle the hp of the engine. Technically it should only see about 14hp of load instead of the whole 25hp of the engine because that's the max loading for the pump, however the lovejoy I got can handle up to about 30hp I believe. I did something similar to yours, I made a "puck" that the lovejoy pressed into and I welded the lovejoy to it and then that puck bolted directly to the flywheel. The spline would've been the better option but I had hell finding one that fit and the overall connector size was too long. Looks like the yanmar you got is significantly smaller than my kubota as far as block size so it seems to be making your swap far easier than mine which is good, mine is/was a huge PITA...
 

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1982 446 1988 446
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So some good news...... actually great news!!!! I stopped by a local tractor/equipment dealer today. They used to be a john deere farm equipment dealer but was dropped by john deere a few years ago unfortunately. Anyway, I just wanted to see if maybe they had some parts or serviced injectors. Even better they had a set of injectors on the shelf ready to go. Original oem serviced injectors apparently a customer ordered and never picked them up. They sold them to me for three bills and told me if I had any problems to let them know. This was awesome! Of course it sucked I had to buy injectors but a got a pretty good deal I think anyway.

Got home and tested them out quick and sure enough all three are perfect. They actually spray better than my originals that I tried to clean. So they are all installed in the engine and ready to go. All I need to do to is run some fuel lines, a few temporary wires for the fuel pump, bleed the fuel system and it is ready to test fire! Hopefully I can do that this weekend.

Another good thing is I believe I can run a front pto.... but I need a bit more room in front. I got a electric pto from Amazon to see if it could be done and I think I can. So what I'll need to do is ditch the factory oil cooler. If I do that, I'll have the needed room for the electric clutch.

I'll have to design a stub shaft to bolt to the front pulley right off the crankshaft. It should be plenty strong to do so as the journals are a lot bigger than the Onan and the pulley is kind of press fit over the end of the crankshaft. The stub shaft will allow me to slide the electric clutch on with the pulley towards the engine which basically drops the belt down in the oem location. Then I'll just have to make a anti rotation bracket.

Now for the oil cooler, I think I'm gonna go one of two ways here. It is definitely gonna be a fluid to fluid cooler using the engine coolant. I'll either run a tube style cooler or a plate cooler. I think I have room above the engine off to either side of the valve cover. I'm gonna try to keep it over on the injection pump side, but I'm afraid I may have to run it above the exhaust manifold and make some heat shields. The other option is to mount it outside of the engine compartment on either side of the engine.

A tube style cooler is basically one big tube (2" to 4" in diameter) with a bunch of little tubes inside. The coolant would run through the main shell and the hydraulic oil would run through the little tubes. I've seen these that would flow upwards of 20gpm so it should work no problem.

The other style is a plate style cooler. It is basically a cube with alternating plates that run each fluid past each other in different plates. These coolers are actually extremely efficient and are used in tons of applications today. My F-250 6.0 powerstroke uses one for the engine oil and it isn't very big at all. Maybe 6"x6"x4". It keeps oil temps within 5 to 10 degrees (higher) of coolant temps almost all the time.

I'm really leaning towards the plate style at the moment. My only concern with these are temperature. I've done a lot of searching on the forum and it seems that most are saying really working a Case like tilling or equivalent use of rear pto, the hydraulic system is running upwards of 200掳. So maybe I'm over thinking it. If the oil cooler and my little radiator can keep the coolant temps around 160掳 to 200掳 I'd guess I probably would be ok. Guess I'm gonna find out because adding a front pto back would actually be really nice.

I wasn't initially even concerned about a front pto but the more I think about it, the more excited I get to keep this feature. Mowing the lawn with a diesel swap would be awesome considering the fuel consumption alone. My '88 446 is a absolute gas guzzler.
 

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So some good news...... actually great news!!!! I stopped by a local tractor/equipment dealer today. They used to be a john deere farm equipment dealer but was dropped by john deere a few years ago unfortunately. Anyway, I just wanted to see if maybe they had some parts or serviced injectors. Even better they had a set of injectors on the shelf ready to go. Original oem serviced injectors apparently a customer ordered and never picked them up. They sold them to me for three bills and told me if I had any problems to let them know. This was awesome! Of course it sucked I had to buy injectors but a got a pretty good deal I think anyway.

Got home and tested them out quick and sure enough all three are perfect. They actually spray better than my originals that I tried to clean. So they are all installed in the engine and ready to go. All I need to do to is run some fuel lines, a few temporary wires for the fuel pump, bleed the fuel system and it is ready to test fire! Hopefully I can do that this weekend.

Another good thing is I believe I can run a front pto.... but I need a bit more room in front. I got a electric pto from Amazon to see if it could be done and I think I can. So what I'll need to do is ditch the factory oil cooler. If I do that, I'll have the needed room for the electric clutch.

I'll have to design a stub shaft to bolt to the front pulley right off the crankshaft. It should be plenty strong to do so as the journals are a lot bigger than the Onan and the pulley is kind of press fit over the end of the crankshaft. The stub shaft will allow me to slide the electric clutch on with the pulley towards the engine which basically drops the belt down in the oem location. Then I'll just have to make a anti rotation bracket.

Now for the oil cooler, I think I'm gonna go one of two ways here. It is definitely gonna be a fluid to fluid cooler using the engine coolant. I'll either run a tube style cooler or a plate cooler. I think I have room above the engine off to either side of the valve cover. I'm gonna try to keep it over on the injection pump side, but I'm afraid I may have to run it above the exhaust manifold and make some heat shields. The other option is to mount it outside of the engine compartment on either side of the engine.

A tube style cooler is basically one big tube (2" to 4" in diameter) with a bunch of little tubes inside. The coolant would run through the main shell and the hydraulic oil would run through the little tubes. I've seen these that would flow upwards of 20gpm so it should work no problem.

The other style is a plate style cooler. It is basically a cube with alternating plates that run each fluid past each other in different plates. These coolers are actually extremely efficient and are used in tons of applications today. My F-250 6.0 powerstroke uses one for the engine oil and it isn't very big at all. Maybe 6"x6"x4". It keeps oil temps within 5 to 10 degrees (higher) of coolant temps almost all the time.

I'm really leaning towards the plate style at the moment. My only concern with these are temperature. I've done a lot of searching on the forum and it seems that most are saying really working a Case like tilling or equivalent use of rear pto, the hydraulic system is running upwards of 200掳. So maybe I'm over thinking it. If the oil cooler and my little radiator can keep the coolant temps around 160掳 to 200掳 I'd guess I probably would be ok. Guess I'm gonna find out because adding a front pto back would actually be really nice.

I wasn't initially even concerned about a front pto but the more I think about it, the more excited I get to keep this feature. Mowing the lawn with a diesel swap would be awesome considering the fuel consumption alone. My '88 446 is a absolute gas guzzler.
I'm genuinely impressed by all of your progress so far. But if you manage to shoehorn working PTO in there too, then in my book you have really hit the trifecta for a the "ideal" engine swap.

Just fantastic.

Bob
 

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Just got caught up.. really great stuff.

I think hydraulic system temps are generally LOWER than engine oil temps can get to in any car/truck that doesn't have an oil cooler. So definitely 'fine' to do the liquid to liquid you were mentioning. My mom's Volvo i just did some work on has one like that right off the side of the oil pan. Some people use them between their air conditioning lines and a liquid tank for an air to water intercooler, etc.. all cool stuff. :)

I'm wondering why bother doing a mechanical belt drive to a mower deck when Case is all about hydraulics.. just because a stock deck would attach and work easily?? You're jumping through huge hoops in other areas, in that sense just converting a stock mower deck to a hydraulic motor drive with a couple of quick disconnects is relatively simple, probably much simpler than getting a stock-style pto clutch in place. Would actually make hooking and unhooking the deck a lot simpler as well. But i'm not against the pto.. it's obvious you can pull it off. I'm just not sure why it's an attractive idea.

I have mowed a bit with my Kubota B7100 which is a similar sized machine with similar size 3cyl diesel.. nice and easy. The only thing i've ever hooked to my kubota 3cyl diesels (i have 3 of them) that made it noticeably suck down the fuel was run a 48" pto trencher bar. Everything else i don't look at the fuel level more than once a week, lol. What i really liked about mowing with the b7100 though was that it has 3 pto speed ranges.. so under some conditions i was able to mow with pto in 3rd gear and trans in 3/hi just loafing along at 1500rpm with the blades zinging and cutting some grass. Still cutting at ~5mph but with a 'half throttle' noise level. Could do the same hydraulically but you'd need another type of valve to do it. I've noticed one thing with small machines and hydraulics is all the stuff you want to try exists... but packaging it all attractively into a small space becomes a REAL struggle because it's a mini machine and none of the controls are mini.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I believe you're correct. As nice as it would be, I just think adding a front engine pto is gonna be overall a PIA compared to just driving a deck hydraulically. It would be much easier running hoses from the rear pto to a oem mounted deck. I think that is how I'm gonna go about it anyway. I just need to figure out how to size the hydraulic motor and then pulleys to get the rpm correct.

Like you said it almost seems pointless especially after I've upgraded the entire hydraulic system to do stuff exactly like this and power almost any attachment you could dream up via the hydraulics.

I like what you said about your kubota and I'm hoping to accomplish the same but different execution since Case is hydraulic. While I like mowing with a Case, it is painfully slow in low and way to fast in high on my other 446. With the Super 446 having flow control, I'm hoping I can accomplish what you do with the flow control. I may not be able to idle down as far as you but I won't have to be wide open either.
 

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I believe you're correct. As nice as it would be, I just think adding a front engine pto is gonna be overall a PIA compared to just driving a deck hydraulically. It would be much easier running hoses from the rear pto to a oem mounted deck. I think that is how I'm gonna go about it anyway. I just need to figure out how to size the hydraulic motor and then pulleys to get the rpm correct.

Like you said it almost seems pointless especially after I've upgraded the entire hydraulic system to do stuff exactly like this and power almost any attachment you could dream up via the hydraulics.

I like what you said about your kubota and I'm hoping to accomplish the same but different execution since Case is hydraulic. While I like mowing with a Case, it is painfully slow in low and way to fast in high on my other 446. With the Super 446 having flow control, I'm hoping I can accomplish what you do with the flow control. I may not be able to idle down as far as you but I won't have to be wide open either.
Tagging off this post as it is something I'm going to look in to as well but could you not run the PTO ports out from the valve, to a plain T fitting and run from the T to the front and the rear of the tractor, then have quick connects at the front and the rear and use the front connection for mid and front mount attachments and the rear for rear attachments. So long as you only use on attachment at a time I don't think it could be a problem right? Would make the hydraulic spaghetti from a front or mid hydro attachment a lot more manageable if the attachment was close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Yes you are correct and I have thought about this as well. As long as you don't try to use both at once (and even that isn't a problem, you'd just need to make sure the pump can keep up with what you're trying to do) the pressure is just going to go which ever way the path is back to return.

Same concept as the factory setup on the mid-lift and 3 point hitch.

I really should invest in a bender and run hard lines lol.
 

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Yes you are correct and I have thought about this as well. As long as you don't try to use both at once (and even that isn't a problem, you'd just need to make sure the pump can keep up with what you're trying to do) the pressure is just going to go which ever way the path is back to return.

Same concept as the factory setup on the mid-lift and 3 point hitch.

I really should invest in a bender and run hard lines lol.
I agree. After finishing it and testing it this coming spring I will be investing in one and replacing almost every line on the tractor with hard lines. It's amazing, I added about 10-1/2" to the frame length and still have little to no space...
 
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