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You are a true craftsman. Looking at this project coming together one would think it was a factory install.
Super 446 Build- Diesel Swap
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Yeah I'll definitely have something to seal off the intake just incase. With new injectors, the only problem I could have is the injection pump. I'm hoping not, the only thing that would need replaced in the injection pump would be the plungers. Everything else looked great but so did the original injectors too so.
As far as radius interference on the mounts I'm not sure I understand what you mean.
After going back through and checking the pictures it looks like I have once again confirmed I'm crazy (don't give the wife any more ammo). I was thinking the ears towards the front of the motor curved inwards not outwards like they are. I have dived into my injection pump on my diesel and they are surprisingly simple things and have very little that can go wrong. However if you need to rebuild it or find parts for it I hope you have an easier time than the Kubota world. Only real option is to buy a new or rebuilt one with both costing well North of $700 with a rebuild kit being next to impossible to find. I found one but they would only sell to confirmed mechnics shops.. how BS is that!? Good luck!
Oh ok I got ya now. Yeah they will have holed drilled and bolt to the rear engine plate.
I went to work two weekends ago to try and test start it but got no where once I figured out the fuel pump that was on the generator was seized up. I should have know better after having to rebuild basically the entire fuel system. I got a new facet fuel pump now so hopefully try and start it this weekend.
As far as parts go I find it rather easy to source parts although they can be expensive unfortunately because they are John Deere labeled yanmar parts. My engine is basically the middle of the 330 332 and 430 John Deere. So far all the parts I have needed were identical. The 330 332 have a smaller displacement yanmar and the 430 is a larger displacement. There are many parts that are the same back and forth between the John Deere like the injectors. I had to replace the fuel control rack as I snapped off the pin taking it apart. That was ordered for a 430. Same as the injectors like I said.
So not much more to report..... I've been dragging my feet. I made the decision before I start it for the the first time, or attempt to... I would at least plumb the cooling system. My plan was to just try and start it but as I get older I believe more and more to take your time and do things right first instead of rushing.
So I propped and shimmed up the radiator to where it needed to be, and fit all the radiator hoses. Everything worked perfectly except I had to cut some mounting knubs off the crankshaft pulley to have some more clearance for the bottom hose. I used Summit racings website to narrow down to 1" hoses and imagined in my head how they would fit. Everything worked great. I got really lucky on the top hose. It worked out pretty good and kept it a one piece hose. On the side bottom I did use a 1" 90° mandrel bend aluminum tube. That let me cleanly cross over and back up to the water pump.
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One thing I'm worried about is the thermostat housing is a touch higher than the radiator cap. This is gonna cause some issues but I'm hoping if I put a bleeder in on of these ports it will correct it. Any opinions on this from any of you?
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And last, I finished off building the stack with a nice little turn out. I didn't want a flapper on it, just a nice clean turn.
So I propped and shimmed up the radiator to where it needed to be, and fit all the radiator hoses. Everything worked perfectly except I had to cut some mounting knubs off the crankshaft pulley to have some more clearance for the bottom hose. I used Summit racings website to narrow down to 1" hoses and imagined in my head how they would fit. Everything worked great. I got really lucky on the top hose. It worked out pretty good and kept it a one piece hose. On the side bottom I did use a 1" 90° mandrel bend aluminum tube. That let me cleanly cross over and back up to the water pump.
One thing I'm worried about is the thermostat housing is a touch higher than the radiator cap. This is gonna cause some issues but I'm hoping if I put a bleeder in on of these ports it will correct it. Any opinions on this from any of you?
And last, I finished off building the stack with a nice little turn out. I didn't want a flapper on it, just a nice clean turn.
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1,158 Posts
My wife had a car where the intake manifold was higher than the radiator cap. It had an air bleed at the highest point on the intake. When changing coolant I had to leave the bleeder cracked a hair until all the air in the system purged and then tighten it up.
A bleeder at the highest point in the cooling system is how I would go. Perhaps drill and tap the top of the thermostat housing for it?
A bleeder at the highest point in the cooling system is how I would go. Perhaps drill and tap the top of the thermostat housing for it?
I think that is how I'm gonna start and see how it works. I did a lot of research last night on this topic and found out a lot of information. There are apparently quite a few European car manufacturers that do this with bleeders.
My thermostat housing has 1/8" npt ports, possibly just for this purpose. I ordered a Schrader valve type bleeder which is the same as tire valves.
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Another thing I will try, and is used commonly by hot rodders is to jack the front of the tractor up off the ground to make the radiator cap the highest point. Then fill while it is cold. With the radiator cap being lower I will need a recovery tank so it can expell the excess when hot and suck back in coolant as it cools. If I don't it will just spit out the coolant than suck air back in while cooling creating the problem every time. The cap isn't that much lower so I won't have to jack it up much.
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The next solution if the bleeder doesn't work is a surge/expansion tank. The difference compared to a overflow tank is it is pressurized. You mount it so it is highest point and then becomes the fill as well. The bottom port gets plumbed into a heater/radiator hose and then the cap vent on the radiator gets plumbed to the surge tank and the ports on my thermostat housing. This let's air bleed out to the highest point at the surge tank. I made a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that would be the feed port. Then the surge tank is the jiffy jar in the picture which is the exact size of the surge tank I would buy.
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So it is definitely able to be fixed just depends which works better. One thing I'm starting to get disappointed with is I'm running out of under hood room for a turbo lol.
My thermostat housing has 1/8" npt ports, possibly just for this purpose. I ordered a Schrader valve type bleeder which is the same as tire valves.
Another thing I will try, and is used commonly by hot rodders is to jack the front of the tractor up off the ground to make the radiator cap the highest point. Then fill while it is cold. With the radiator cap being lower I will need a recovery tank so it can expell the excess when hot and suck back in coolant as it cools. If I don't it will just spit out the coolant than suck air back in while cooling creating the problem every time. The cap isn't that much lower so I won't have to jack it up much.
The next solution if the bleeder doesn't work is a surge/expansion tank. The difference compared to a overflow tank is it is pressurized. You mount it so it is highest point and then becomes the fill as well. The bottom port gets plumbed into a heater/radiator hose and then the cap vent on the radiator gets plumbed to the surge tank and the ports on my thermostat housing. This let's air bleed out to the highest point at the surge tank. I made a plug on the side of the thermostat housing that would be the feed port. Then the surge tank is the jiffy jar in the picture which is the exact size of the surge tank I would buy.
So it is definitely able to be fixed just depends which works better. One thing I'm starting to get disappointed with is I'm running out of under hood room for a turbo lol.
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4,605 Posts
Don't worry about it. The block will be full with the rad being full , and the water pump will easily push the water over the hump when the thermostat opens. That little bit of space up there will just be added expansion space for the temperature change. I would fill it with just water for the first few runs till you get the [cold] level in the radiator right as it might puke a little while it decides how much coolant is enough.
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530 Posts
I agree with Dundee. The base of that neck tube is actually below the water line, just not the whole diameter. The entire head and thermostat are under the water line, so they'll sit full, and I don't think you're losing enough volume to matter. I'd start with it just as it is, and only modify it if you have issues.
Bob
Bob
You guys don't think that air pocket is gonna create a problem? With the tractor sitting level I have the radiator full and coolant never came out of those ports on the thermostat housing. It did however leak out of the portion lower than the thermostat because I forgot to tighten the fan switch and temperature sensor. So I do know the coolant is in there in just not sure if it is filling up through the block or the upper hose.
From what research I've done it seems like a air pocket like that could lock the system or at least that's what others say in theory.
From what research I've done it seems like a air pocket like that could lock the system or at least that's what others say in theory.
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530 Posts
Others surely have more experience than I do. But to my mind the key point is whether the head and thermostat sit full. That the water level in the radiator is higher than the midline of the thermostat.
If you remove the gooseneck and fill up the radiator does the water overflow where the gooseneck bolts on?
If it does I think you'll be fine. If not then I think you'll end up needing either an expansion or pressure tank.
But trying the bleeder first can't hurt. It's basically free.
Bob
If you remove the gooseneck and fill up the radiator does the water overflow where the gooseneck bolts on?
If it does I think you'll be fine. If not then I think you'll end up needing either an expansion or pressure tank.
But trying the bleeder first can't hurt. It's basically free.
Bob
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4,605 Posts
Most all tractors with cabs have the heater up in the roof. This is at least 4 feet above the engine and radiator and yet the water pump pushes coolant through the hoses up to the heater core and back seamlessly even after a full coolant change and flush, no bleeder up there either. So the so called internet experts are basically full of it.
I think it would matter a lot on a convection-only system like my Kubota B6100/7100s with no water pump. I do not think it will matter at all in your case because the 'sensing element' of the thermostat is still below the water line. The thing i would be careful of is that if you DONT have an overflow tank (regular, not pressurised) and the system pushes out some coolant from expansion, after it contracts it will simply suck air back in and THEN the water level might be below the thermostat. So i would say you need a regular overflow bottle like a car has where the filler neck vent tube is submerged in the overflow so it can suck coolant back in as the system 'contracts' during cooling. Other than that i would not expect any issues from your setup.
Beautiful work!
Beautiful work!
I wouldn't say they are full of it, there is definitely merit to what they are saying. I think it leads more to air getting trapped in the block and head itself. The design of this water pump probably alleviates a lot of it though.
I did install a bleeder, and I do have a recovery tank that will be mounted somewhere. Vigo I believe you are correct, it will probably be fine but with no tank it would make the situation worse puking out the extra then sucking air back in while it is cooling.
I did install a bleeder, and I do have a recovery tank that will be mounted somewhere. Vigo I believe you are correct, it will probably be fine but with no tank it would make the situation worse puking out the extra then sucking air back in while it is cooling.
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