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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So ladies and gentlemen, a few weeks ago I drove 8 hours round trip to pick this up. 74 case 646 in need of some love. I thought I’d start a thread to share the work I do to it, and with it.

Here it is the day I picked it up. I’m told it hadn’t run in at least a year. The ring gear on the flywheel came loose and the owner parked it
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I got it home, rolled it off the trailer, and decided to see if she’d start for me. Checked the fluids, pressed the ring gear back on temporarily, and wouldn’t you know it she fired right up! I drove it forward and back, tested the loader functions, and everything seemed to work. It’s alive!

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"T"
Glad to hear you made out well.
You picked the right trailer for the 646 she fits nicely .
Looks like the PO added a nice front edge on the buket.
Great idea on the thread on your progress
My old friend Lionel had a great thread on his rebuild on a loader.
If you have not seen it check it out, lots of great info and even better photos
WE all like pic's.

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bigman
 

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Looks good, I just picked up a 1972 646, I run and loader seem to work. Tested it by picking up the back of a pickup, din't lift it off the ground, but another 1/4 to 1/2 in it would have, let it set for about a min, no leaks to report. It going to be a winter project to go through it.

gean444
 

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'68 - Case 155, '73 - 646a
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Congrats on the Tractor and Welcome to the group. I'm going to send you a private message with links to LOTS of 646 repairs, Including putting the ring gear bad on the flywheel of a Onan CCKa engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the message, lots of good info. I’ve already reset the ring gear. Turns out this tractor doesn’t have the original ccka engine, but a 14hp engine out of an onan emerald ii generator. I cleaned the carb and adjusted the points and now she runs excellent. I tested the compression just for my own information and got about 115 on each cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Shortly after buying it I had the opportunity to test it out. An oak tree limb fell behind my shop in a storm and nearly took out my ice house!

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So after limbing it, I lifted it with the tractor and cut it up with the chainsaw.

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The loader lifted everything no problem. Couple issues though: she was loud as heck with the tiny salt shaker muffler the previous owner installed, and the loader lift cylinders leaked like crazy. So I ordered a new muffler and new seals and got to work.

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New muffler was for an onan generator and was a little too big to fit under the hood, so I had to cut a hole for it to exit out the hood.

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Now you’re pretty much caught up. Next up I’m building some pallet forks for the bucket, and a sleeve hitch for the rear using the cylinder from the mid lift. I’ll post updates soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got a good start on the sleeve hitch today. Everything is welded up and mounted, I just need to clean it up, paint it, and refill the hydraulics.

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I have two questions though:

(1) Which port, front or back on the tcv will be my lower/float function? I forgot to pay attention when disconnecting everything.
(2) Should I paint the hitch case yellow, or just black?
 

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One issue. You have the cylinder mounted upside down from it's intended position. With most cylinders this would not be a problem, but look in a parts manual for the exploded view. You will see the pin on the bottom (big end) holds the header in place. The header seals to the cylinder wall with a single O ring. The problem is the way you have it dirt and water will get into the seem and stay there, where rust will start and eventually eat around the O ring.

Cheers,
Gordy
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I thought about the cylinder getting water/debris in the top, but I don’t think it will be an issue. I’ll seal the top with a bead of silicone, or possibly make a dust cap for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Forks basically complete. I’m interested to see how well they work, and whether I’ll need one of the forklift valves. I don’t plan to use them for more than 100-200lbs at a time. I need to get more oil to top up the hydraulics, and then I’ll test everything out.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Forks work awesome! Those are waterlogged wood garage door sections. Maybe 200lb total. Forks lifted it no problem, and I had good control.

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You really need to get those cooling tins on that onan before you overheat and loose a valve seat.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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A few of your pictures show the cylinder head tins off. I wouldn’t run mine without them. Nice looking unit though! I need to make some forks like that.
 

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It looks like you had them in the first photos. But the cylinder heads appear exposed now and with out the tins on the engine will run hot.


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have the one for where you have circled. I’ll put it back on. The one from the other side of the engine wasn’t on there when I bought it. I imagine it’s been run like that for years by how corroded the mounting holes are. If it causes problems that will give me an excuse to drop a new engine in ;)
 

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When you get the tins on, contact one of the dealers to get the seal that fits around the oil filter and seals to the tin. There have been valve issues caused from just that missing air seal.

Cheers,
Gordy
 
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