[fjmg]

My 446-81 was my first unit with the under hood muffler and I noticed that the decals are burnt off as is the paint and have seen this on many units that are for sale. Now the muffler and it's insulated cover are still there and in VG condition but I have noticed that the hood is extremely hot after use. I would like to put new decals on after paint and have noticed the fine resto's by fellow members here but am concerned how long they will last. Has anybody had issues with heat from the exhaust after the resto? I also noticed that the later tractors had openings in the hood and wonder if this was to allow any excess exhaust heat to escape. Has anyone cut similar openings in the older style hood to prolong decal/paint life?

 

[Hydriv]

I would be reluctant to start chopping holes in the hood. The complaint is not new. Many members deal with it by installing heat shielding onto the underside of the hood. There are flexible, aluminized materials out there that have been used in the auto business for this very purpose.

Close inspection of your muffler is also important. The outer cover and insulation material of the muffler are important in keeping under-hood temps under control. If the muffler begins to fail underneath those two items, then the hot exhaust gasses can escape under the hood instead of being directed out the tail pipe.

The high cost of replacement mufflers have led some owners to fabricating their own unit out of stainless steel including the outer shield.

 

[99flhr]

I for one would like to remove this giant heat sink from the underhood area altogether, the air to cool the engine already passes through the hyd heat exchanger and then flows under the muffler area. Can`t imagine it`s very cool by the time it enters the fan shroud. Of course I don`t want stacks, don`t want to cut the hood and don`t want iron pipe as an exhaust.
Given my limited fab skills, I can`t seem to come up with a solution that doesn`t look like all cobbled up. JMO

 

[Hydriv]

You have now listed all the problems encountered by the engineers at Winneconne. Welcome to the club. :sidelaugh:

 

[fjmg]

I will need to pull off that muffler again and double check since there is no way a decal will last more than a couple cuts of my lawn and with all the resto's being done there just does not seem to be a lot of complaints so it must be something with my machine (on the plus side, all the snow from blowing melts immediately and just boils off not to mention a great place to dry mitts after shutdown :thumbsup: ). If I do not cut some nice openings like the ingy's (actually easy do with a plasma cutter and jig) then maybe will have to look for custom color exhaust manifold paint for the hood and fireproof decals.

 

[Hydriv]

Here's something to consider.

If under-hood heat was a huge problem that was causing burnt paint and fried decals, then why did Case and/or Ingersoll do something about it? The muffler went under the hood during the 1976 production run and it stayed there right to the end of the 3 digit tractors in 1988.

The issue does get discussed on the forums but not that often. So you have to ask yourself why those things rule the day? These are high-end tractors. Owners wouldn't be happy to see their nice new tractor look like crap one year after purchase. The point is this. Something is going on with YOUR tractor that isn't going on with a whole lot of other tractors.

 

[mastifflawyer]

I wrote down the name of a Header heat wrap that several members said worked for them. But do you think I could find it???? I will keep searching, and in the meantime maybe some of the members will come forward with personal experience.

 

[drhulv]

Make sure that the muffler assembly is properly clamped onto the exhaust headers. Lift the hood on a cool day, start the engine, then look for exhaust gases escaping from the fit between the muffler assembly inlets and the exhaust header pipes. Those hot gases will stay under the hood and be directed right towards the decal area. Snug up your existing muffler clamps, or get new ones, to make sure the hot gases all exit through the muffler outlet.

I also believe engines that run lean, will produce more heat through the exhaust, so make sure everthing is properly adjusted. A new outer wrap to secure the insulation around the main muffler body is easy to make (there is a thread with pics in this forum). Heat shielding on the inside of the hood next to the muffler area, as Hydriv indicated, is a good option too.

I'll be adding decals to my resto this spring and have the same concerns. I've already taken the steps indicated above. FYI, I have an early Case/Ingersoll with the louvers in the hood and it still can get very hot. However, I'm hoping some of the changes will help.

 

[grummy]

I've got discoloration on the decals on one side of my hood already... this was just with 30 or so WINTER hours logged so far. And, I have LAVA mat material stuck tight under the hood throughout. Admittedly, I used something different for decal material (3m white reflective), but no one buying from your typical vinyl cutter is generally supplying you with the same quality the factory used even back then. No biggie for me,... I will just cut new "stripes" to replace the ones that discolored so far.

I will probably build a sheet steel air block of some sort.... perhaps place a fan in there to run long after you shut the tractor down to dissipate heat, or just close the hood with a batt of insulation slammed in there. <G>

I think it was a real problem when they were new as well... I have to watch that no one puts their hand (or butt) on the hood after shutdown... usually I open the hood so it cools quicker.

 

[fjmg]

Thanks guys I'll triple check everything as per above recommendations. The post shut down cooling fan is interesting since that is exactly what ford used on the cylinder heads of the 4.9 l straight six engines. I would have thought that the openings in the later C/I hoods would have helped dramatically but it doesn't appear to have a large effect according to some owners.

 

[99flhr]

I would have thought that the openings in the later C/I hoods would have helped dramatically but it doesn't appear to have a large effect according to some owners.

My 446 has the louvers, looks kind of sporty but the hood still gets hotter :twisted: than the Chernobyl reactor.

My 4020PS draws intake air past the ( much smaller) hyd. cooler and then OUT over the exhaust system. Seems to run cooler but that perception may be because it`s not blowing the "cooling" air on my shins in July. :???:

 

[99flhr]

^ Thank you Mr Snot .

 

[Hydriv]

Randy,
You never got that kind of service on any of those other sites you inhabited. :sidelaugh:

 

[boomers_influence]

fjmg
on my 82 448 i have one decal starting to get bad.
this is an original one owner tractor.
your tractor still has the better quality pipes and muffler.
your muffler may be leaking as tom stated.
ONE thing i have noticed is that no one has stated that it may be running to LEAN.
just a thought.
thank you. boomer

 

[Mjoe7]

FYI... When I repainted the 448, my dad bought a heat reflective tape and put it on the inside of the hood where the problem spots were and have not had a problem for 15 years or so now. Cheap and it works. :thumbup:

 

[kcunningham]

I used header wrap on the exhaust pipes and muffler, i dont even have the heat shields that cover the pipes on. No problems yet.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Just a thought from my days in the heating trade....Kaowool has a wet-pack ceramic fiber that can be molded to any shape.After it is dry, it is quite strong and will insulate very well.If you secured it with a few stick pins I think it would work really well.I believe you can get this stuff from an industrial insulation dealer or a heating/plumbing wholesaler.Cerafelt wet pack is another name.Lynn Mfg has kits of this stuff available too.Another place might be a local ceramics or kiln supply. You can get header wrap at Summitt Racing. I may try this on my Ingy 224 this summer...the decals don't look to good.Good luck to all! :thumbsup:

 

[fjmg]

Thanks for the ideas guys, I'll double-check for lean condition first but I have a feeling I need to consider some of the posted ideas to save the future paint and decals! I'll have to remember to hit the hood with an infrared thermometer next time I run it.

 

[tss8690]

I recently repainted the hood of my '78 Case 446 and applied Lava mat along certain areas inside of the hood. I also wrapped the bare exhaust pipes with a heat resistant cloth specifically designed for exhaust systems. After a very brief run time the hood was very hot. I know the motor is running lean and have plans to correct that soon but am somewhat skeptical about the effectiveness of the lava mat (it's made by Heat Shield Products). Any suggestions on where I might pick up some of the heat reflective tape a few of you have mentioned?

Many thanks!
TSS

 

[KBear]

ONE thing i have noticed is that no one has stated that it may be running to LEAN.

Refer to the second paragraph from drhulv's post on the previous page.

I also believe engines that run lean, will produce more heat through the exhaust, so make sure everthing is properly adjusted. A new outer wrap to secure the insulation around the main muffler body is easy to make (there is a thread with pics in this forum). Heat shielding on the inside of the hood next to the muffler area, as Hydriv indicated, is a good option too.

Kenneth