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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been wanting to build a Case Puller, but always run into the hydriv system problem. I have thought about a 210 with the manual drive. What do you think? Is it strong enough to use? I have no experience with the manual transmission Tractors just the Hydriv models.
Near me is a 210 for sale with no engine so I'm thinking of buying it if it would work well and keep up with the Cub's in the stock to slightly modified classes.
Any help woulkd be appreciated. :thumbup:
 

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You could use a 210 if you intend to compete in the STOCK division and you stay in the 1000 LB class. If you intend to play with the Modified's, then you might as well build something with a strong rear end and big motor right off the bat and just use a Case hood on it. The rest will be custom. Do you have ten grand to toss that way? :sidelaugh: If not.... then STOCK is the way to go. Just ask Boomer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess I better save my pennies then... :wink: This is kind of a new idea I had, I may get the tractor, but it will be awhile before it's pull'n a Sled. I want to do it right the first time. I gotta give the CASE brand a good showing. It will be hard for me to stray from an Onan though... that's all I have. :thumbup:
 

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The JDs used a peerless 4speed in the 110/112. I have seen ALOT of pictures of destroyed trans axels from trying to plow, pull etc. They are pretty week, but the JD guys dont really care they just bolt in another one and start again.
 

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The Pulling game is not for those with faint heart and thin wallet. Breakage is inevitable which is why I suggested a dead stock class of 1000 LBS or less. The tractor weighs a little over 700 LBS and with a 200 LB Operator, that only leaves about 50 to 100 LBS of wheel weights that can be added. The tranny should stand up reasonably well with this loading. But if you want to gamble with your pay check, then by all means, improve the engine HP, add more weight, better tires for more traction and move into the 1400 LB Class. But first....... go and find a bunch of those old JD's and rob the trans-axles from them instead of doing the same thing with Case tractors. :lol: :lol:
 

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Mjoe7,
I, dont recommend using anything but the cub rear end. Not only are they the toughest, But you can make a phone call and have custom clutchs, gears, shifter forks etc delivered to your door. they are the gt pullers standard issue. But the closest pulling club in your area dosent allow miss matched rearends with sheet metal. Thats, Wisconsin garden tractor pullers. If you go south alittle. Rock County pullers do allow you to use the cub rear. I wouldent waste my time or money building a puller with a peerless rear end. The only thing there good for is makin funny noises followed by a free revin engine. :sidelaugh: You might wanna take the learners approch, spend as little as possable to get some hooks under your belt. put a 400 series drive in your 200 series, less than $100.00, maybe spend alittle more for a tighter 4000 series, and bump up the relief a few hundred psi. I recommend (installing a gauge). You could pick up a used set of bar tires, build an adjustable hitch, weight brackets, saftey equipment, like dead man throttle etc, and hit the track. dont worry about aluminum rims, untill you see how the hidriv works out for ya, because it requires a different offset. You will learn more after makin a couple pulls then you will ever read about. And wont have wasted alota time and money finding it out. Google those clubs, read the rules, look at where there pulls were last year, so you kinda get the idea how far your gona be traveling, And check out the pic section, IF they have one. Good luck Eric
 

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Hydriv - There was a guy on MTF that was pulling a Case and was getting help with setting the relief valve on the TCV to allow for a higher pressure rating a long time ago. I don't remember what tractor he was using but it was a low pro. and I know it wasn't a 210 it was a hydraulic drive 200 series. Do you remember?

Kenneth
 

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Back in the early eighties I built a Case puller for my wife to drive in the Powder Puff 700 lb class. I used the 210 frame and transaxle but the belt drive gave me fits so I spun the engine 90 degrees to get a straight belt drive and fabricated my own clutch. I built a 16 hp Kohler with a cam and stiffer valve springs. We were running top cut Firestone 26 x 12 - 12's and she pulled in 4th gear and could spin out at around 5000 rpms. We never had transaxle issues at that weight class but I'm sure the extra weight would take it toll on the peerless.
 

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KBear said:
Hydriv - There was a guy on MTF that was pulling a Case and was getting help with setting the relief valve on the TCV to allow for a higher pressure rating a long time ago. I don't remember what tractor he was using but it was a low pro. and I know it wasn't a 210 it was a hydraulic drive 200 series. Do you remember?

Kenneth
That person is a member of this forum and i was helping him during the time I was on MTF. He was using a 224 and running in a stock division. However, this thread seemed to be about the viability of using a 210 due to availability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hydriv said:
KBear said:
Hydriv - There was a guy on MTF that was pulling a Case and was getting help with setting the relief valve on the TCV to allow for a higher pressure rating a long time ago. I don't remember what tractor he was using but it was a low pro. and I know it wasn't a 210 it was a hydraulic drive 200 series. Do you remember?

Kenneth
That person is a member of this forum and i was helping him during the time I was on MTF. He was using a 224 and running in a stock division. However, this thread seemed to be about the viability of using a 210 due to availability.
I remember him to. He gave me dimensions for building an adjustable draw-bar/hitch. :smile: I do remember him saying that the 23x10.5x12 tires worked better than the 26x12x12 as they gave him better traction with less weight needed. There is a lot of flotation with those 26's. He was my inspiration for my 226 (still a work in progress). :thumbup:
 

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If I had my pick of any stock model, I would find a 3118-D with a flow control kit. That will give you the best possible base, and it is a stock diesel. You will be over 1000 lbs, but only a cub diesel would even have chance with stock power. With the diesel you can also tweak the pump or change injectors and stil pass as stock. The 3118-D also has the largerst stock pump of any Case or Ingersoll. I am convinced a Case or Ingersoll can be made competitive in the modified classes as well. I would go with the later Ingersoll tractors to get the stronger rear end. If you plan to modify it, any 3000 series tractor will work.
 
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