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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to determine how many hours/cost to build a 3pt?
So, if you have built one, how long did it take?
What's your fabrication skill set/level?
What parts did you have to source, where'd you find 'em and what'd they cost?

Thanks
 

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I haven't built one but I don't think it would be difficult if you have the right fabrication equipment. If you have a plasma cutter, welder, drill press you'd be pretty well set. About the only parts you'd need to purchase are the lift arm ends and the lift links plus some steel and a cylinder. The cylinder will probably run you about $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It doesn't look too complicated, but I'd have a friend (builds race cars, so I know he's got the tools/skill) do it for me. (I've only ever welded PVC, and used "JB weld" :grin: )
So I wanted to ask how long it took a competent builder, so I know what I'm asking of my friend.
 

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old abe said:
It doesn't look too complicated, but I'd have a friend (builds race cars, so I know he's got the tools/skill) do it for me. (I've only ever welded PVC, and used "JB weld" :grin: )
So I wanted to ask how long it took a competent builder, so I know what I'm asking of my friend.
I would think that by the time you have a 3-Point you will owe him Big Time. :sidelaugh: :sidelaugh:

Stewart
 

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I built one for my 4016. There's a lot of pieces and a lot of drilling. I started by cutting, drilling, and bending, all of the parts.




Then I welded it together and did a test fit on the tractor.



Then removed it from the tractor and painted.



When I was all done, here's how it looked on the tractor.





As for cost, I'd break it down like this:

Most of the steel I had except for the round bar and the sleeving:
we'll say $20
bending $10
4ea Category 0 weldable ends: $35.42
Hydraulic cylinder: $115.00
2ea Adjustable arm links: $84.70
2ea hydraulic hoses @ NAPA $90
Adjustable top link $25
pins, and hardware $25

= $405.12

What I can't count is numerous hours ~20+
and paint plus all the steel that I had on hand.
 

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Sam, the gentleman who's plans are posted on this site, told me that an OEM Case lift cylinder is all that is needed with his plans, and that my friends can be had for as low as $9.95 at times on the bay or from a parts tractor. I believe he stated that the entire project cost him under $200.

He is the exact text from his first email when he contacted me:

"kungdrew, Send me your e-mail address and I'll send you free plans for a 3pt hitch you can build for less than $200.00 Hope this helps you out a little. See ya SAM"

Here is another quote from when I asked what cylinder he used:

"Drew, I use the midlift cylinders because you can find them on e-bay 20--30$. You will never find a 4" cylinder and new ones are $250.00 + -. Don"t have model numbers . I copyed my plans from an orginal Case 3pt a friend loaned me. Cylinders are mounted on left side and I haven't had any trouble with hydro lines. Also the manual shows how hook up hydro lines, you will need 2 "T" fittings. Good luck with your build. Have fun--work safe. SAM glad to help"
 

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All of you will have to forgive me but I have no idea what you are talking about when it comes to hitch plans posted in the Tech section.

I just checked and was not able to find such plans. Secondly, nothing gets posted by members in the Tech or FAQ sections. Only Admin posts items there. However, members are welcome to submit things to me for possible inclusion in those sections

Thank you.

Tom
 

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Hydriv said:
All of you will have to forgive me but I have no idea what you are talking about when it comes to hitch plans posted in the Tech section.

I just checked and was not able to find such plans. Secondly, nothing gets posted by members in the Tech or FAQ sections. Only Admin posts items there. However, members are welcome to submit things to me for possible inclusion in those sections

Thank you.

Tom
Tom

I thought Snot posted them , I just assumed they would be in the Tech Section

Stewart
 

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if you use the Belly cylinder for this you will be sorry.
it has a 1" shorter stroke than the REAL 3 pt cyl.
so, to get the same travel you will have too move it in closer to the pivot.
when you do this you loose the lift power.(the longer cyl. is located further out on the arm)
thank you. boomer
 
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