[99flhr]

Last year I was gently chided for adding chains to my front ags. ( see album ) This was correct as even with chains properly fitted they did slip a bit and required a watchful eye to ensure that the clasp did not "click" on the R.H. tie rod end.
In order to avoid yet another demerit this season, I purchased a spare set of used wheels, ( Thanks to Bigplow!) a set of round shouldered Carlisle turfs and new bearings. I will probably further narrow the chains to get the side links further "out" on the sidewalls. Like the idea of leaving the chains on permanently and just swapping tires. Doing this with all 4 wheels as I am essentially lazy.
So... this brings me to the point, it would appear that by mounting the tie rod crossbar UNDER the spindle ears instead of the stock location, greater chain clearance would result. Other than having to reset the toe-in I don`t see a downside. (?)

Yes I know, we haven`t finished mowing, much less leaf removal, and I`m talking about snow. :wave:

 

[Bart]

I'm even lazier than you and instead of messing with chains would get a set of the tri ribs for the front. Based upon everything I've learned I think they would provide good winter traction. I've also learned that filled ag tires on the rear provide very good winter traction albeit not as good as chains on ice.

 

[99flhr]

I'm even lazier than you

That`s impossible.. :thumbup:

 

[99flhr]

I'm even lazier than you and instead of messing with chains would get a set of the tri ribs for the front. Based upon everything I've learned I think they would provide good winter traction. I've also learned that filled ag tires on the rear provide very good winter traction albeit not as good as chains on ice.

Have empty ags & weights on rear for summer use and they are superior to filled turfs ( same overall weight) for slopes etc. I actually think they cause less damage due to the fact that they rarely spin.
Have beet filled turfs + wheel weights + giant chains for winter, that`s 500lbs + my own 200lbs. Given the angle of my driveway I still find myself wishing for 4WD occasionally.

 

[bigplow]

I do my parents drive it to is a very steep gravel angle I have tri ribs and turfs with chains and weights last year I used my ags and weights but going back to turfs and chains this year have spare wheels now so mount chains permanat and add washer fluid and wheel weights I thought about chains for the front but never need at my house and I am used to it on theres just have to attack the drive the right way but most of the time I love to play in the snow with my case!!!!!

 

[Bill.H]

it would appear that by mounting the tie rod crossbar UNDER the spindle ears instead of the stock location, greater chain clearance would result. Other than having to reset the toe-in I don`t see a downside. (?)

Ought to be fun putting on a mule drive attachment. Will your blade lift arm clear it?

 

[Snotrocket]

If you have an extra set of tires and wheels you should just stud the tires and then tube them.

I had that plan last winter to do a set of rears with snowmobile studs but I never got around to it.

 

[99flhr]

Ought to be fun putting on a mule drive attachment. Will your blade lift arm clear it?

At first glance I don`t see either of those being an issue, will chk and report back.
Thanks :wave:

 

[Stewart]

99

I shortened the cross links on mine and they are mounted on the original rib tires, the chains ride above the tie-rod ends so I have never had a problem in 30 years.

I think on turf tires they would stay on no problem :thumbsup:

Ya just can't beat the grip of chains. :trink: :trink:

:drinkbuddies:

 

[99flhr]

[quote="Bill.H"[/quote]
Ought to be fun putting on a mule drive attachment. Will your blade lift arm clear it?[/quote]

I think the problem would be interference with the drag link rod end in R.H. turns as they would both be in the same plane horizontally. The 446 is not "home " right now, so I can`t confirm. I`ll stick with the chain mods. Thanks for making me think this through.