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After sitting for 2-3 weeks it can take quite a bit of cranking before the B-43 Onan in my 446 will light off. Have dual batteries with 1000 CCA so it`s not a question of running out of crank. My concern is that starter motors are not designed for extended duty as they get hot and this shortens their life. Evidently the fuel drains back while parked and it requires some time to pump it back to a float bowl that has evidently run dry /evaporated. Was wondering if an inline primer squeeze bulb ( think 2 stroke outboard boat engine) would minimize this issue. Consider that the pulse fuel pump on an Onan is the analog of the pumper carb on a 2 stroke engine.
Your erudition welcomed. :wave:

EDIT: It occurs to me that perhaps I should have asked this in the Onan section. Admin may move it at their discretion. However there is more traffic here on the main page.
It may also be that the answer is rebuilding/ replacing the fuel pump and not reinventing the wheel. LOL
 

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99flhr said:
Evidently the fuel drains back while parked and it requires some time to pump it back to a float bowl that has evidently run dry /evaporated. Was wondering if an inline primer squeeze bulb ( think 2 stroke outboard boat engine) would minimize this issue.
I had the same problem with my Kawa engine draining overnight. Replacing the fuel line solved that problem, but after a few weeks it still happens. $7 for the bulb and I use the clear fuel filter as a gauge. Works great.

99flhr said:
It may also be that the answer is rebuilding/ replacing the fuel pump and not reinventing the wheel. LOL
Sounds like the answer is yes but for $50 and a couple hours labor more.
 

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99flhr said:
bhildret said:
Drain back with the carb integrated fuel pump is a common issue.

Brian
Sorry, I should have been more specific, my pump is separate from the carb.
OK.......Drain back with a non-integrated carb/fuel pump is a less common issue but it still happens. If you think about it, no owner of a brand new Case or Ingersoll tractor is going to tolerate the problem you are experiencing. Therefore, the problem is caused by a weak component and replacing that component should solve the problem. Of course, there are band-aid solutions such as marine bulbs, electric pumps and shut-off valves but none of them address the root cause, do they? However, they are the start of the slippery-slope of makeshift fixes that ultimately end up with these tractors showing up on C/L or e-Bay for cheap money. What's next? A generic ignition switch, a Ford starter solenoid, a bypassed main fuse and then a bypassed ammeter?

The replacement cost of your tractor is at least six grand or did you forget that? :sidelaugh:

I think I see an MTD in your future.
 
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