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4020 PS Rear Tires & Battery Light

13K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  Riviera  
#1 ·
I recently purchased a Case Ingersoll 4020. I have 2 questions. First, the rear tires are still serviceable however, new treads will be in the near future. Are there sources that carry the 8.00-16 rear tires, either in turf or lugs?

Second, the tractor came with several implements. We went through the 60" mower deck and front blade installation and removal. The battery low light did not illuminate until we got home to drive the tractor off the trailer. The only electrical mating/unmating/mating we performed was related to the PTO. Could an improper connection cause a Batt Low condition? Since that is the only action we took involving the electrical system, it seems high on my suspect list.
 
#2 ·
Hello Riviera, With the help of a good friend (tire guy) We have been using the Firestone P245/75R16 winterforce UV 1095 tires, as a replacement,they range from $100.00 - $130.00 per tire, check with your closest Firestone dealer. We do have one new set of OEM tires left here $225.00 each.Please call our shop,my brother (Charlie) (who is not a computer guy) can explain the charging,We are here to help out anytime.Take Care,Bill,Barneveld Imp. 608-924-1662
 
#4 ·
Others will reply to the options for bar lug tread, though you could try a search for Millertire.com . A recent post discussed how a 9.50 bar lug looked better, as the 8.0 looked too narrow.

I bought a 448-78 that came with a set of Wild Country M+S (1/2+ tread) on it with plenty of room for chains. These are P245/75R16 as Bill mentioned. Could probably be found at a local savage yard for $50 or less a tire. A member of the old Yahoo group posted that the direct replacement size for the 8x16 is 225x75x16. Some liked the Bridgestone Blizzak tread pattern.

:cheers:
Gordy
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the tire information thus far folks. Interested to learn any experiences and to receive recommendations. This community board is one of the reasons I chose my 4020.

I hope someone out there has some insights as to what may be causing my Battery Low light to illuminate. I verified the PTO connection to be tight and also added some WD-40 to the connector blades and receiver. Initially the light was out, however light came back on after running for a 1/10th hour or so. Considering I have not run it since yesterday, perhaps that allowed the battery to recover just enough. I am not see the charging provisions in the wiring diagram. Hope someone has experienced this issue...
 
#7 · (Edited)
Start by putting a multi-meter to the battery with engine off, then again with engine running to see what you get. A good battery should be around 12.5 volts at rest if not put it on a charger then let it sit off charger over night and retest, and 13.8 to 14.2 with engine running. the sensor that triggers the light do go bad.

:cheers:
Gordy

PS; My 3012 does that if I turn on the head light with the engine under 1/2 throttle, throttle up and the warning light goes out.
 
#8 ·
Voltage sensors are problematic. On some 3000/4000 series tractors I remove the voltage sensor, rewire, and install a digital voltmeter that fits into a 1 1/8" hole. I make the hole where the sensor light is. On Vanguard powered tractors I install a relay to power the voltmeter as the voltage at engine shutdown spikes the voltmeter and burns them out. This is on a 4020PS tractor, Onan powered.
 
#13 ·
Voltage sensors are problematic. On some 3000/4000 series tractors I remove the voltage sensor, rewire, and install a digital voltmeter that fits into a 1 1/8" hole. I make the hole where the sensor light is. On Vanguard powered tractors I install a relay to power the voltmeter as the voltage at engine shutdown spikes the voltmeter and burns them out. This is on a 4020PS tractor, Onan powered.
Bob - You can protect your digital meter with a Transient Voltage Suppressor (TVS) Diode. A TVS Diode is an electronic part that is specifically designed to turn on and clamp voltage surge events.

1500W rated TVS Diode:
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...n/vishay-semiconductor-diodes-division/ICTE15-E3-54/ICTE15-E3-54GICT-ND/2880324
OR 5000W rated TVS Diode for not much more money:
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...n/vishay-semiconductor-diodes-division/5KP15A-E3-54/5KP15A-E3-54GICT-ND/2880387

Personally I would buy the 5000W part given that the shipping is far more than the cost of the part. Feel free to message me if you have more questions.
 
#11 ·
Hi Gordy and group,
I have a spare pair of 8.00/16s sitting next to my 225/75R/16 snow tires and they are very close in height/OD. These snows are deep retreads from Treadwright Tire Co. My regular 225 road tires are smaller in OD. Most 16" tires are going to be 10 ply as compared to the 2 ply rating of our turf tires.
 
#15 ·
I may be wrong in my thinking, But higher ply rating only means I can run over sharp rocks and small stumps that might puncture a 2 ply rated tire. I run loaded tires at 10 to 12 PSI year round, this gives me a larger foot print. Which in summer means less pressure on the ground for less soil compaction, and in the winter more surface area on icier snow packed area's. And I seldom run full speed/high gear.

:cheers:
Gordy
 
#14 ·
Hi Matt A,
I thought that there would be some sort of electronic device that would protect the voltmeters when installed on Vanguard powered tractors.
My first voltmeter installation was on my 4018 Vanguard repower and as it was originally Onan powered, a relay is part of the engine electrical harness, so this voltmeter was OK. When I installed a voltmeter on my first Odyssey, the voltmeter didn't last very long and I figured out why. The primary side of the Vanguard ignition coils have upwards of 300 volts potential in them while the engine is running and when the keyswitch is put in the off position, this voltage spike is fed into the 12 volt system.
 
#16 ·
A 8 or 10 ply rated tire is going to ride a lot rougher than a 2 or 4 ply no matter what the air pressure. But Gordy is right on. Less compaction with a thinner tire and it will really take some bad luck to puncture any rear tire on our GTs due to the low total weight of the tractor. Running her in a scrapyard or perhaps logging with it, maybe.
 
#17 ·
You mentioned scrap yard. 100 + year old farm here. Frost always brings new bolt's, nail's and iron scrap to the surface every spring. :facepalm: Been picking it up since April of 88 :facepalm: Forget what dad said, starter from model A or T ford, and a JD PTO driven air compressor are a few of the items to come to the surface :shock:

:cheers:
Gordy
 
#23 · (Edited)
Welcome to the group!!! Regarding the tires I think it is important to determine if you are going to be moving a lot of dirt and/or snow. If so then you may consider a pair of lugs, a lot of us have purchased the Carlisle R-1 8-16 Farm Specialist with great success and even have added lugs (mounted in reverse) in the front of our GTs. I bought a second set of rear rims for the lugs but the turfs never went back on LOL!!!. Most will agree that the lugs are not preferred for mowing. You can also stay with the turfs but you really need chains to put on for the winter work in snow. Not really a big deal to put chains on and remove in the spring. In either applications you do need weight for traction. I like cast iron wheel weights, others like to load the tires with e. g. beet juice. Here is my set up.

Rich
 
#24 ·
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