Bacon,

The hose that you show attached to the dipstick tube was the vacuum line for the original impulse fuel pump that was mounted on the flywheel shroud just above your electric pump.

Bob

 

Well, that makes me feel better about that random bolt that is in the hose.

Do you guys think it was time for new plugs? I haven't seen plugs that bad, that didn't come out of a nitrous car in a long time. It still has a miss at idle but, it does run better after everything that was done today.

If I didn't have to pull the motor to put all the tin work back on, I'd clean up the wiring to make it less "home repair" looking. And before the comments are made, I'm going to put some rivnuts in the fan shroud so I can bolt the new pump to it.


Side note, does anyone know of good exhaust plumbing for a CCKA? There is one pipe that has been welded and still leaks, making it sound like...well, an old lawn mower. I want to get that Onan sound back from it.

 

After a trip to TSC for some rod, to make a new cross pin for the steering wheel, the wheel is mounted better than it was. Ignoring the fact the steering system itself needs to be gone through and freshened up, the wheel still has a a lot of slop a the adapter to the column. Just further pushing me to find a wheel, either original or one that will fit the shaft and use a key to lock it into place. I did find a place that sells new Ingersoll steering wheels but, they're out of stock. Marketplace and eBay seem to be dry as well. Maybe, I just need to get a new shaft and start from scratch or, just suck it up and live with how it is now.

Now, for the fuel pump. I found the specs of the old pump and found it is made for car and seeing that the carb only handles 1-2 psi, its no wonder why it runs so rich and fuel over flows the bowl and tries to push fuel out of the top of the carb.

SP8016 12 2.5 - 7 PSI 27 - 36 GPH 1/8-27 1/8-27 Import Passenger and Light Truck Carb Gas/Diesel

Fuel pump is replaced and, can you imagine how it runs now? A lot friggen better! It is still rich but, its not pushing fuel to air filter housing and you can only sell the richness, not feel it in your eyes. It may run less rich once I replace the plugs and wire. Who knows how old they are and how much they wore out with all the extra fuel the engine was fed and never had the ability to burn.

Now, I may have missed it in the manual but, what is the hose that goes from the dip stick tube, towards the front of the tractor? The parts engine I have does not that it.

 

Also, I found the answer to my valve block mount question. I need to drill some holes in the floor pan and bolt it to that.

Now the question is, do I have the pump rebuilt or buy a new one?

 

Went through the same on my 646fuel pump, banana plate, steering fixes. Runs way smoother now!

 

Whelp, after some struggles, I got the banana plate replaced. The hardest part was trying to get everything lined up and the bolts tightened up along. The whole trying reach the bolts and nuts in awkward positions around the frame. But it works and is fairly smooth, not as smooth at it was before but, well, it was held together with a small rope and just plain sloppy as a whole.

During the install, I found something that further enhances my thought that the engine was removed at some point. Aside from the metal piece that goes on the back of the motor, along with the side tin work missing. I found one line that has made contact with the steering gear, and for a good bit too. Also, should there be a mount for the valve body or was that part of the original floor?

Great, I back out and put the box blade down. It would barely pull the box blade through the gravel driveway, lift the blade up and it moves along with ease.That combined with its weakness in lifting materials has be debating on having the pump rebuilt or just getting a new pump.

Now, I go to de grease more of the tractor and think, how is this steering wheel mounted and how was the original wheel mounted. The current one was (say was because I couldn't get the first pin back in) had the column drilled and then the adapter thing pined into place with roll pins. So, I took that off to find it has a keyed shaft. Now I need to go find a stock ish wheel, for a keyed shaft.

 

I started the Banana Plate work yesterday, between cleaning and still fighting oily/greasy hands, I called it a night with the disassembly stage done. Yes, that is a rope used to tie the spring to the frame. Yes, it was sloppy to say the least. Between not having full power in either direction to the pedal getting stuck down from time to time and the lever flopping around like one of those Wacky Waving Inflatable Arm Flailing Tube Man guys.

I will say, who ever made an access cover to all of this, was a miracle worker. Between the added light and space to work, thank you who ever did that!

 

For sale ad pictures.